Question about 2007 Mazda 3 1.6

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Mazda wont start, brand new battery

Brand New Battery. (took and tested it at Canadian tire, output of 700) Started my car one morning drove 6 mins to a friends, parked it, wouldnt start again. Tried jumping it with her mazda and wouldnt work. Jumped it with CAA and worked drove to work (20 min drive) wouldnt start after work. Let it sit for a few days, unplugged the battery 2 days. Rehooked the battery up and it started no problem. Started 3 or 4 that evening and then again in the morning, drove to work in the am and then wouldnt start in the evening. Any ideas??

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Sounds like you have a failing ecu. the capacitors in the ecu are worn out. there has been a lot of problems with the ecu on mazda's over the years, only take one out put overload from the alternator and the ecu starts playing up. no codes come up as it don't code its self. having the battery off is like a reset.

Posted on Mar 20, 2014

Testimonial: "Russ!!! thank you for your answer. I know NOTHING about care... so let me start by 1. what is an ecu? 2. is this an easy fix or will it cost me millions? 3. that would explain why it starter when jump and then wouldn't start again? 4. thats why my friends code reader read 'no powertrain DTC or freeze frame data is presently store in vehicle's computer' again, thank you!!!!!!!"

  • adubs
    adubs Mar 20, 2014

    Testimonial: "Russ!!! thank you for your answer. I know NOTHING about care... so let me start by 1. what is an ecu? 2. is this an easy fix or will it cost me millions? 3. that would explain why it starter when jump and then wouldn't start again? 4. thats why my friends code reader read 'no powertrain DTC or freeze frame data is presently store in vehicle's computer' again, thank you!!!!!!!

  •  Russ Hill
    Russ Hill Mar 20, 2014

    ecu is the engine management its the brain of the engine. they are coded to you vehicle lincs with abs control and immobilizer and alarm. fault on ecu will only read faults with the sensors its own power side will not be read as with engine not running it will read normal any change to the voltage the ecu will drop down on power and not send the right signal to start. boost starting is giving it the extra amps it needs to start. as a weal capacitor or capacitors is not storing the right amount of power.. no power train means no code stored in ecu, freeze frame data its just the last setting the ecu used while engine was running..... you can get the ecu fixed there are a number of companies that will fix the ecu and it cost a lot less then having a new one fitted and reprogrammed for your car. even some one that is confident at solder work can replace the capacitors. they will be easily noticed by there shape and may even off leaked or cracked there top.



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Start your car and unhook the battery if your car dies your alternator is bad.

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check all your fuses sometime when giving a jump start
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2 words, charging system. Doesn't mean go straight for the alternator though. Check your belts or tensioner pulley if you have serpentine belt. There are normally three diodes in the alternator, when 2 of 3 go out then you lose your charging capabilities and can only run until battery dies (6 miles sounds about right). Hope this helps

Posted on Sep 27, 2010

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had P0753 code worked on by 2 different repair shops and still no resolution, HELP?! Have a 2007 Mazda 3 with 104,000 miles, 95% of it all highway been running great till now. Felt engine slip recently and engine light came on with code of PO753 - shift solenoid A malfunction. Brought to Mazda dealership wanted $2200 low to $3300 to replace my valve body assembly. So got 2nd opinion from local transmission specialist, changed the Shift Valve Solenoid, first time drove it for a day engine light came back on with AT light on as well. Brought it back he replace same solenoid thought maybe first was not good. Drove it for a day, engine light back on. Took it to Aamco they basically said it was electrical, not valve body assembly. They replaced some wiring in car, said it was fixed. Ran good for about 3 days, then engine light and AT light when engine slipped slight one more time. Took if back to Aamco today, diagnostics coming back clear, said maybe need to replace ECM at some point down the road but seems to be running fine. Feel screwed since engine light is still on, they tell me I'm fine driving on it. Said replacing the ECM was expensive and car appears to be running fine since diagnostics came back clear.Both places said dealership assessment with valve body replacement was not going to solve the issue, but issue not solved, any suggestions or thoughts? very confused what to do now paid out about $850 for both places so far. First guy gonna reimburse the solenoid part and some of the labor. No reimbursement yet from Aaamco said i can drive it with engine light on seems okay.

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