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MY car start just one click but when it run a few km it was shut down then i turn it on again it will not starting but after 20mins of waiting it will start again but same patern when it runs a few km it will shut down again never start again my car is mitsubishi galant super saloon carb type 90 model manual tranny pls pls help me

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 75,051 Answers

You need to read the fault codes before you do any parts replacing.

Posted on Mar 20, 2014

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

stormbrewin
  • 426 Answers

SOURCE: fuel consumption of a mitsubishi galant super saloon 1990 model

8 to12 ks per ltr is it v6 and its an average and driver style dependant and thats when it was new.

Posted on Oct 20, 2008

dennymulford
  • 1055 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 Grand am gt 3.4 dies out when driving

no its vapor locking losen up the fuel cap and leave it lose your vent line is prob plugged

Posted on Mar 04, 2009

dustyboner
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: My 2003 Mitsubishi Galant (V6)

It is your idle air control (IAC) motor. Its located on the bottom of the throttlebody. All you need to do to change it out is remove the air intake hose from the throttlebody, unplug the connector and remove 3 screws. But the part isn't cheap. I would suggest finding on online because at a local parts store it will be around $250

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Posted on Oct 01, 2010

dttech
  • 4803 Answers

SOURCE: After starting car check engine

Diagnosis must begin with scanning your Engine Control Module to find out why it has turned the light on. The car may seem to be running OK, but there is probably a problem that is causing you to use excessive fuel and/or is threatening to destroy some high dollar parts like your catalytic converter.

Posted on Jan 11, 2011

tunde007
  • 2382 Answers

SOURCE: my 1985 nissan 300zx stays

Hi, there are many reasons why your car would run for some seconds, less than 45 seconds, 45 seconds or more than 45 seconds and shut down, so i would let you know all the reasons and possible cause of the problem.....


An engine vacuum leak. Check for loose or broken vacuum hoses, leaks around the intake manifold gasket or throttle body, leaks around the PCV valve and EGR valve.


A dirty or defective airflow sensor. A sensor that has been contaminated by fuel varnish or dirt will under report airflow and be slow to react to changes in airflow. This can upset the air/fuel mixture causing idle, stalling and hesitation problems. Cleaning the airflow sensor wire with aerosol electronics cleaner can often restore normal operation and cure the problem.


A defective idle speed control system. Idle speed on a fuel injected engine is controlled by allowing a small amount of air to bypass the throttle. If the idle air bypass circuit is plugged with dirt or fuel varnish, or the solenoid valve is sticking or broken, the engine may not get enough air to idle normally causing it to stall. Cleaning the idle air bypass circuit in the throttle body with aerosol throttle cleaner will often remove the gunk and solve your stalling problem. If a good soaking with cleaner fails to fix the stalling problem, check the wiring connector. It might be loose or corroded. If no wiring faults are found, you may have to replace the idle speed control solenoid.


A faulty coolant sensor. If the coolant sensor is bad and tells the PCM the engine is colder or warmer than it really is, that can screw up the fuel mixture, too. If the coolant sensor reads colder than normal, or cold all the time, the engine will run rich. This won't cause cold stalling but it can make for a rough idle once the engine warms up, and it kills fuel economy. If the coolant sensor reads warmer than normal, or reads hot all the time, the PCM will lean out the fuel mixture too much, causing the engine to stall when it is cold. See the article on coolant sensors for how to test the sensor. Replacing a defective coolant sensor will cure this cause of stalling.


A faulty air temperature sensor. This sensor tells the PCM the temperature of the air entering the intake manifold. The PCM needs an accurate input so it can balance the air/fuel mixture properly. Just like a bad coolant sensor, a bad air temperature sensor can upset the fuel mixture causing stalling problems.


A bad Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. This sensor monitors intake vacuum, which the PCM uses to determine engine load. If the MAP sensor is not reading accurately, the PCM may add too much fuel or not enough, causing the engine to stall. See the article on MAP sensors for how to diagnose this sensor.


Low engine compression. If your engine has a lot of miles on it and compression is low because the piston rings and/or cylinders are worn, ot it has one or more leaky valves, it may not have enough oomph to keep idling. A compression check will tell you if this is a problem or not, and if it is there's no easy fix other than to overhaul or replace the engine.


Worn or fouled spark plugs. Ignition misfire can make any engine stall at idle. When the engine is running slowly, there is less momentum to keep it going, so a bad misfire may cause it to stall. If the spark plugs have not been changed in a long time, a new set of plugs and/or plug wires can restore a good hot spark and eliminate the misfire. A weak ignition coil or a faulty crankshaft position sensor may also cause a stalling problem.


Bad gas. Gasoline that contains too much alcohol (more than 10%), or gasoline that has been contaminated with water or some other substance may not burn well and cause your engine to stall. If the stalling started to occur shortly after your last fill-up, suspect bad gas. The cure is to drain the tank and refill it with fresh gas from another filling station, or just use up the bad fuel (if the engine runs okay at highway speeds), then refill at another station when the tank is near empty.

Posted on Apr 04, 2011

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