Question about 2005 Dodge Dakota Quad
My Dodge Dakota will start and run very rough for a few seconds, and then just die. You can feel the fuel relay click when it dies. I have replaced the relays, crank sensor, and ignition switch.
Here are some tests you can try. The list is generic and you may have tried some of these already. It sounds like a vacuum line issue to me. For other info try this website:
Repair Guides Symptom Diagnosis no Codes What To Do When There Are No...
Prior to starting this symptom test routine, inspect these underhood items:
Test 2: Rough, Low or High Idle Speed Condition (Continued)
Test 2 Chart
Step Action Yes No 1 Step Description: Verify the rough idle or stall Does the engine have a warm engine rough idle, low idle or high idle condition in P or N- Go to Step 2. Fault is intermittent. Return to the Symptom List and select another fault. 2 Step Description: Verify idle speed & timing Verify the base timing is within specifications Verify that the base idle speed is set properly Are the timing and idle speed set properly- Go to Step 3. Set the base idle speed and timing to the specifications and then retest for the symptom. 3 Step Description: Check AIS / IAC Operation Check the AIS or IAC motor operation Inspect the AIS/IAC housing in throttle body for restricted passages. Clean as needed. Set the parking brake, block the drive wheels and turn the A/C off. Install the Scan Tool. IAC Motor Tester - Turn the key off and then connect the IAC tester to the IAC valve. Start the engine and use the IAC tester to extend and retract the IAC valve. ATM Test - Start the engine. Use the tool to change the speed from min-idle to 1500 rpm. Did the idle speed change as commanded- Install an Aftermarket Noid light and check the operation of the PCM and AIS or IAC motor circuits. Check the motor for signs of open or shorted circuits. Replace the IAC motor or PCM as needed or make repairs to the IAC motor wiring. If all are okay, go to Step 4. If the AIS/IAC motor passages are clean and engine speed did not change as described when the AIS/IAC motor was extended and retracted, replace the AIS/IAC motor. Then retest for the condition. 4 Step Description: Check/compare PID values Connect Scan Tool & turn off all accessories. Start the engine and allow it to fully warmup. Monitor all related PIDs on the Scan Tool. Verify the P/N switch input in gear and Park. Check the O2S operation with a Lab Scope. Are all PIDs within normal range- Go to Step 5. Note: An IAC motor count of over 80 indicates the pintle is extended and an IAC count of (0) indicates the pintle is retracted. One or more of the PIDs are out of range when compared to "known good" values. Make repairs to the system that is out of range, then retest for the symptom. 5 Step Description: Check the Ignition System Inspect the coils for signs of spark leakage at coil towers or primary connections. Check the spark output with a spark tester. Test Ignition system with an engine analyzer. Were any faults found in the Ignition system- Make repairs as needed Go to Step 6. 6 Step Description: Check the Fuel System Inspect the Fuel delivery system for leaks. Test the fuel pressure, quality and volume. Test the operation of the pressure regulator. Were any faults found in the Fuel system- Make repairs as needed Go to Step 7. 7 Step Description: Check the Exhaust System Check Exhaust system for leaks or damage. Check the Exhaust system for a restriction using the Vacuum or Pressure Gauge Test (e.g., exhaust backpressure reading should not exceed 1.5 psi at cruise speeds). Were any faults found in Exhaust System- Make repairs to the Exhaust system. Then retest the symptom. Go to Step 8. Repair Guides Symptom Diagnosis no Codes What To Do When There Are No...
Posted on Mar 20, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Won't run
There are to many things that can cause the no start. Here is a link that can help you understand the possible problems and links to how to retrieve the DTC codes which is activating your Auto Shutdown relay.
Good luck and hope this helps. Keep me posted http://www.allpar.com/fix/stall.html
Posted on May 26, 2009
You about have to have a bad alternator or battery. What does your amp gauge say when you are driving down the road and have your lights on? Does it show that the battery is taking a heavy charge? Did you put a ohm meter set to DC current on your battery when it is running to see if the alternator is putting out?
Posted on Sep 15, 2009
check your catalytic converter for clogged up.
disconnect the exhaust pipe before the cat and run the engine to see if it still cut off.
if it run better, then that's the problem
Posted on Mar 05, 2010
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