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On start up no matter the temp out side when I take of driving 2-3 gear doesn't feel like converter is locking in raise the rpm to 4500 and it will drop in gear and drive fine rest of day

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You have a hydraulic fluid pressure problem Most likely a filter getting plugged up. Have it changed before you do serious damage.

Posted on Mar 20, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: coolant temp. raising. no coolant loss.

first with the car off and cool squeeze bottom radiator hose with your hand then do the top,this burps any air out of the system,of course have the cap open,if this doesnt solve the problem its your radiator cores are block as you speed up its trying to force coolant thru a blocked core and temperature rises,you can pull your raidiator and have it cored at a radiator shop,cheeper than buying new

Posted on Jul 07, 2008

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SOURCE: car fluttering

Your issues could stem from numerous issues. Check out the following website sign up and you can search for electrical problems mechanical issues etc. Exploded diagrams included.

TAUAHERE78 your issue can could be a timing belt jumping teeth could be a bad fuel pump. could be clogged fuel filter. etc. Is it giving any engine codes etc.

Guest: Your issue could be timing belt as well. or bad coil check the above website and do some troubleshooting or bring it in to dealer

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Posted on Jan 05, 2009

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SOURCE: '99 chevy Silverado Z71,5.3 engine.....will not rev when hot.....

try replacing your EGR Valve, or your Oxygen Sensor

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

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SOURCE: 1998 jeep wrangler fuel filter issue?

Think I'd consider maybe replacing IAT sensor (intake air temperature sensor) , and cleaning the IAC motor before all that. The IAT basically tells the PCM what's going on temperature wise at the intake manifold, thus if it gives same reading when engine cold & needs more fuel, as it does once engine is warmed up, then you will experience the symptoms you are experiencing now. The IAC motor can be removed and spray cleaned with throttle body cleaner, (watch your eyes & hands) as well as spray into port you remove it from, as this may not be the cause, but may contribute, but if it were me, I'd change IAT sensor first & see what happens. If your mechanics want to change your fuel pump, tell them to test fuel pressure when first started cold and symptoms would be present, then test again after engine warmed up & running good. There should be a difference, as in lower pressure when cold. If once it's warmed up & you can accelerate well down the highway and experience no cutting out or bogging down as when cold, then I don't see why they are so sure it's fuel pump because it would do it then as well?

Posted on Sep 08, 2009

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With the motor running and the engine hood UP, stand near the driver's front wheel and look down below where you would add the brake fluid. You will see a black rubber handle. That's the dipstick for the transmission fluid. Remove the dipstick WITH THE CAR RUNNING, wipe the stick and replace it. Pull it out again and see where the fluid is on the stick. If there is no fluid on the stick you need to add at least two quarts of DEXRON III transmission fluid. It takes a special funnel and goes into the transmission where you took the dipstick out. They can help you at the parts store if you need help getting the transmission fluid back to the correct level. i have run my transmission very low many times and adding fluid always puts it back in shape.

If the fluid is okay, turn off the key and look up near the battery. Just below the air filter and battery area near the top of the transmission is a shift lever than controls the different gears that puts the transmission into gear. There's a big cable attached to it. Have someone shift through the gears with the CAR OFF and make sure you can feel that lever moving and you can see the cable pulling the lever into logical click positions. If it is shifting into the positions and you have fluid in the transmission you will need a transmisison shop to look at the car because you may have a bad electronic device that controls the transmisison or some internal transmission failure.

Posted on Feb 10, 2011

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1 Answer

I have a 95 silverado c1500 with 4l60e trans and it wont go into overdrive

overdrive is the fourth gear.D1,D2,D3,D4 now drive truck at 80 kmh
cruise at steady speed no fuel pedal movement, downshift from D4 to D3 you should feel RPM raise .. after push brake pedal a little you should see RPM raise 300 to 400 rpm.
shift pattern is 1st gear ,second gear,3rd gear and lock up(torque converter clutch). 4th gear with lock up
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My transmission is slipping

The clutch lining worn out n the lining powder stuck on the transmission filter so transmission fluid pass through the filter clogged.. Only way is to repair the transmission or replace the whole transmission.

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I have a 1998 Ford F150. The transmission is a 4r70W, automatic. While driving it slipped into neutral and when I managed to get the gears to re-engage, it will only drive in the lower gears. Will not...

Does not matter what your told

You have to diagnose the problem

The TPS may have something to with
shift stratagy & on a 1998 may be worn out
by now, if original. Only testing it will tell
It won't have anything to do with changing gears

Torque Converter Clutch you can feel
separate from shifting
If you ride the brake pedal, you disengage TTC
Lock-up & pick up a few rpm

If the trans is all original, just pull it & rebuild it

If has been replaced, you could clean the valve body
& work on checking out the shift solenoids

Jun 13, 2011 | 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab

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Rpm's going 4500 before shifting to second gear second and third are ok whether in overdrive or not .year ago was in accident trans run two quarts low for one hour.trans feels good just delay on shift from...

Torque converter is probraly going bad, the automatic gear selector having trouble seeking or going into another gear unless high rpm to select it out to another gear. Could also be your 1gear is getting bad. you may need to take it to the shop as in the long term, it can damage more. You could check to see if fluid is up to level too, as this does happen when it's low in transmission fluid.

Jan 31, 2011 | 1993 Nissan Maxima

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1990 Honda Civic EX with 164000 miles. At highway speeds the transmission will slip in and out of high gear which causes rpm's to raise about 500. I changed the fluid and lockout solenoid but still...

High gear not only works off of a solenoid, there is a temp sensor that also controls when lock-up of the converter takes place, if the engine is cold it will not lock up the converter, I would take a peek athe temp sensor for the converter ususally this is on the back of the block under the intake manifold. You can use a fluke or multimeter to check resistance of the sensor. Also what did the old fluid look like? was it nasty brown and smelly? if the fluid was like this there is a possibility you could of burned the tranny out. if it wasnt smelly or brown a good flush with some additive might do the trick...... hope this helps

Oct 20, 2009 | 1990 Honda Civic

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Engine shut down

How is your engine at idle? It should be not less than 700 RPM. 1-If it is not then you can raise it up. 2-If your idle is OK then need to have transmission checked for torque converter lockup problem.

Sep 23, 2009 | 2001 Mercedes-Benz C-Class

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Shifting problem

sounds like it may be either a converter problem or u got some bad clutches in third in the case you need to go to a tranny shop.

Jan 27, 2009 | 1998 Honda Civic

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Torque converter lockup

Not to argue the previous comment but it's MUCH more likely to be the solenoid than the actual torque converter -if- it's a transmission related problem. If it's simply a matter of the car stalling when you come to a stop, there are MANY things that can cause this. If the car starts right up but won't go into gear, then it's the solenoid but if it's just a matter of stalling but then drives fine, other things to check would be ignition coil packs, plugs/wires, emmission system, fuel pump/pressure, etc., etc..

Now if the car starts but won't go back into gear (stalls right away) please know that problems with the lock up solenoids (or TCC solenoid) are VERY common with a number of 90's era Chevy's such as Corsicas, Berretas, Cavaliers, etc.. While there are other things (including the torque converter) that can cause this problem, including the ECM and/or wiring problems, the TCC solenoid is the most logical place to start.

Depending on the vehicle, it should be located under an access plate on the side of the trans. Raise the driver side front of the vehicle, remove the front driver's side tire and remove the wheel well access. As you are looking at the end of the trans, you should see the access cover. Once you remove this cover you should see the solenoid (please note you will need high temp "form a gasket" to reinstall the cover!).

There is a great deal of info on this both on the internet and in repair manuals. Good luck!

Dec 21, 2008 | 1993 Chevrolet Corsica

1 Answer

Transmission / RPM

These cars have a lock up torque converter meaning 4 gear going above 35 to 40 MPH, the engine and transmission lock together and turn at the same rate. I know that older GM cars had a plug that needed to be plugged into the transmission for the lock function to work on the torque converter and if you unplugged it the RPM's would run high as you describe. I have never had a 1999 Silhouette and I'm not 100% sure that these cars have that type of plug but it sounds like that type of problem. I agree with you. You know your car and I would take it to a transmission mechanic and describe your problem to them.

Good luck!

Oct 17, 2008 | 1999 Oldsmobile Silhouette

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