Question about Chevrolet G20

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350 vacuum diagram

I have a 1992 Chevy van 5.7 liter vin K version. i dont know where the vacuum line go. I have no $ to buy a chilton book. can I get some help. My van run bad and costing more gas.

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  • Chevrolet Master
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You can find repair mauals in the automotive reference section of the library.

Posted on Mar 20, 2014

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SOURCE: vehicle

This image applies to engines with A.I.R. system
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This image is for vehicles without A.I.R.
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Hope this helps.

Posted on Dec 07, 2008

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SOURCE: Need vacuum diagram

I can't send you a diagram but I can tell you the basics that should get you mobile. Take a vacuum line from the lower front of your carb and hook it to your distributer vacuum advance. Take another from the front of your carb and run it to your EGR valve. It should be beside the carb on the intake manifold. At the rear of your carburator there is a large line coming out. It should be steel. It provides vacuum boost to your power brakes. Hook it up. Make sure all other vacuum outlets on the carb and intake are blocked off and you should be able to get mobile.

Posted on Jun 06, 2009

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SOURCE: trying to find the fuse diagram for my 1992 chevy astro van

It should be marked on the fuse block

Posted on Mar 29, 2009

morse008
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SOURCE: 2001 chevy 3500 van Fuel pump out?

1st ensure the fuses are all good and there is fuel in the vehicle and your not getting a false reading by tapping on the tank ..does it sound Hollow oe Empty / another way is turn on the key and listen for the pump to work a slight humming should be heard ...if so locate the fuel bar and cap screw depress the valve shielding your eyes with say a towell and see if gas dispurses make sure the key is on while doing this if no gas is there or fuel pump is heard then it may be either a bad ground to the unit or the fuel pump itself corroded connections will contribute to this as well unclipping and reclipping the connection togeather should allow a better connection

Posted on Sep 26, 2009

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SOURCE: 1973 chevy truck vacuum diagram

Pretty sure I have the diagrams etc but they are buried away and would take a week to find.
BUT: The setup on that engine for that year is fairly uncomplicated and you could pretty much do away with all the emission controls etc and get the engine running really well. (just block off all vacuum ports on the manifold and carb except for the one to the transmission and power brake booster) I'm not really familiar with the edelbrock carb (looks like they are based on the old carter AFB carb though. I am partial to holley carbs, and the old quadrajet carbs)
What you need to check first though is your fuel pressure and delivery. You should be seeing 5-7 psi at the carb. With the fuel line disconnected, and attached to a rubber hose diverted into a container, you should see at least a gallon of fuel pumped at idle before the carb runs out of fuel. Make sure you don't have any leaks in the fuel line coming from the tank...with a pull type pump (mechanical pump on the engine) a leak often will not drip, but will allow air to be drawn into the line while running. Make sure that if your carb has a filter in the fuel inlet, it is clean. Make sure that the fuel line filter (sock) in the tank is also clean.
It's likely you have an egr valve on the manifold, If so, you can temporarily block it off with a small piece of metal from a soda can installed between the valve and the manifold. That will prevent it from working and if it has any leaks, blocking it off will eliminate it from the system. If that helps, replace the valve.
Your ignition system is fairly simple. a single 12 volt lead goes to the battery side of the distributor. You can block off the vacuum advance temporarily and just set the initial timing at about 8 degrees advanced. (depending upon fuel quality, you can go as high as 12) . The ignition module is not "testable" usually though they either work or they don't )
You do need to check the wires that attach to the pickup under the mount plate to make sure they are not partially broken and grounding when the advance moves the plate.
Back to your carburetor... If you are test driving without the air cleaner housing in place, it is possible that if there is a heat pad mounted to the underside of the hood, it can get drawn down against the carb inlet and cause problems. If the air cleaner housing is in place, make sure that the inlet door in the snorkel is opening or, disconnect the vacuum hose going to it as default on those is wide open. If you have tried everything I've outlined, you may have to go inside the carb and make sure that the power valve isn't frozen or that the float level isn't set too low.
Once you get it running right, you can begin to look for the diagrams etc you are looking for, but at least it will be running and usable.
The only other item that could give you a problem like the one you have is if the cam timing was set incorrectly at the factory (doubtful but it can happen) but I really would not worry about that just yet.
Hope something here helps!!! Good luck!

Posted on Aug 01, 2010

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