Question about Mercedes-Benz Cars & Trucks

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1993 Mercedes 190E 2.6 Petrol 4speed auto 722.409-- has lacking indication of showing MPH on speedometer from O or stand still. When increase throttle above or over 1200 RPMS needle comes/jumps on line but maybe be lagging. Also transmission shifts 3 times, which I believe is correct "starting out in 2nd by design for this unit". but maybe showing a lagging reading on speedometer? Bought the car used clearing all discrepancies not registered yet so all test have been done on jack stands etc. I was running it one time at different speeds and all of sudden everything acted like it should sound & indication wise, but that has not repeated with 5 or 6 run-up test.

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Bad connection in the dashboard or faulty ECU.

Posted on Mar 19, 2014

Testimonial: "ECU should show up on a code reading test and it does NOT nor does the cruise control actuator all codes are reading 1 or no fault. Now what there is a 4th gear solenoid problem my RPMS are higher than what should be by 500rpms or more. I'm thinking the correct level should be 1000rpms for 20MPH the unit now is 3500rpms at 60mph."

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Replaced rear differential speed sensor

Did you use a mopar sensor.I have fixed this problem many times and not had much luck with the aftermarket sensors.Just a thought.Good Luck!!!

Posted on Aug 04, 2008

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SOURCE: 1989 Mercury Topaz Transmission problem !!!

overdrive should be activated by a solenoid ..internal and perhaps an external one also.. in 89 the computer was primitive and i dont think controlled shift points..also if engine health is bad or missing or vacuum to any cacuum modulator at trans is damaged or compromised.. these issues could occur...good luck

Posted on Dec 26, 2008

  • 71 Answers

SOURCE: Car Dies suddenly, May **** and jump at constant speed,

what is the year mahe and model of your jumpy jerkey car? is it throttle body injection carborated ot electronic fuel injection ?have you taken the fuel rail or line loose and tried blowing it out with a strong blast of compressed air ??if you changed the fuel filter and it was dirty and you say you changed the tank and fuel pump you more than likely
are experiancing what they often refer to as butterfly action in your fuel line or your injectors are plugging up sounds to me more like a piece of rust or something of that nature doing a little gate or butterfly trick on you .. a single piece of rust can cause trouble for years if it is big enough and in the right position in the fuel line.. take your fuel line loose at the tank, both ends of the filter and the injector rail and with a strong compressor blow backwards through the fuel line,both from the engine to the filter end and from the other filter end to the tank (caution ) ( caution ) do not i say do not blow compressed air backwards through the fuel pump you will blow a hole in the diaphram and ruin the pump adding to the expense or your repairs dramaticly..
if that dont do the trick my next suggestion would be get the code connector fixed and get a good reading on the computer more thing how good are you with elictrical ? it could be a short in the ignition switch or wires going to it keep me posted we will try to get it sorted out for you good luck and i hope this helps

Posted on May 04, 2009

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SOURCE: Auto Transmission wont shift out of 2nd gear

find a new mechanic

Posted on May 21, 2009

  • 203 Answers

SOURCE: vacuum testing on Mercedes diesel 123 chassis not making sense

Everything on this vehicle is vacuum operated. going into the vehicle at the left rear of engine compartment there are color coded vac. lines-green a/c,yellow central locking,black shutoff diaphragm, clear source, yellow w/red stripe reservoir. any one of these could be a potential leak of vac. On diesel engines they have too high of compression to produce vac. so M.B. put a vac. pump on the front of the engine which is driven by your camshaft. Usually engine vac. changes rapidly with throttle position but because this vac. is not as easily controlled there is a separate control valve called a aneroid compensator that meters the vac. to your modulator on your transmission. It can be adjusted but it requires a special tool( basically it is a dial wheel that fits onto the post of the compensater). I would first make sure your rubber grommet is not torn on your modulator valve. If it is it will need to be replaced. If you remove that grommet you will see a metal plunger which can be grabbed with needle nose pliers and rotated to the left or right. I believe right is a firmer shift and left is a softer shift. stat by rotating approx. 1/2 turn to the left and see how the shifting feels. My first suggestion is to unplug the green and yellow vac. lines and see if the trans. shifts better. On your valve cover is a lever labeled off in case you lose vac. to the shutoff diaphragm. Become familiar with that lever so you can shutoff your engine in case you accidentally unplug the shutoff valve. you will probably find either your central locking or a/c system is the root of the problem.

Posted on May 29, 2009

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