Question about 1995 Volvo 850

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Volvo850cranksnospark p lugs wet engine sounds like compression is flat

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Check your timing belt and if it is broken hope for no bent valves.

Posted on Mar 17, 2015

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Getz 2009 model Compression test dry 1-0, 2-120, 3-170, 4-180 Wet 1-0, 2-240, 3-250, 4-250

not happy with the compression readings
adding a squirt of oil to seal off the rings will not increase the compression by 70 psi so too much oil was used for the wet test even the dry at 180 psi may not be correct as the compression of most cars is 165 max
no 1 with nothing is a valve problem because even with ring failure you will get a reading of some sort especially in the wet test
regardless if the readings can be believed , a variation of 10% is allowed so 3 & 4 would be acceptable but 2 is low against no 3
The head will have to come off and be machined flat and damage to the bores can be inspected while the head is off

Jun 01, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

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Went to a self service car wash and when pulled out the engine light and traction control light as well as the engine light with the arrow pointing down were on and it doesn't want to go.

It sounds like electrical connectors got wet. To fix,I would start disconnecting connectors and blowing out with compressed air.

Dec 07, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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Radiator blew out at bottom, engine overheated and now have no compression

You didn't say what your compression readings were. If you do another 2 compression tests and note down the figures..

The first test is a dry test as per normal. Prior to the second test - the 'wet test', spray some some penetrating oil into the cylinder, spin it on the starter to get rid of the excess oil.

The second, wet test, allows oil to get in between the piston and cylinder wall.

If, on the wet test, your compression readings go up significantly this points towards ring/piston damage or excess wear .. a worn engine. This will give you a good indication as to whether it is easier just to fit a second hand engine instead of doing the cylinder head.

If, after doing the wet test your compression readings don't increase by more than 10% compared to the dry test, this suggests that the pistons/cylinders are okay.

Remember that an alloy cylinder head must be skimmed before refitting. Cylinder heads warp because of heat and become 'banana shaped' - raised in the centre. Failure to have the head skimmed is likely to cause head gasket failure very quickly.

If you're going to repair the cylinder head you should change the thermostat as a matter of course. It's good practise, that's all.

Apr 27, 2016 | 2002 Honda Insight

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What sensor makes car not start, use oil low compression and sounds like it jump time???

There are numerous sensors that can contribute to the vehicle not starting, however, there are none that will cause oil consumption. Is the vehicle leaking oil? Maybe the timing has jumped? If the engine is extremely flooded, the oil can be washed from the cylinder walls causing lower than normal compression. Remove a spark plug and inspect it for fuel fouling. If the plug is wet with fuel there may be a sensor issue. If the plug is dry, inspect the timing for belt jump. If timing is ok, perform a compression test to verify engine condition

Jan 27, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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, about 1 litter per 1000 km.No smoke, no leaks, no loss of power. I fill oil in ( about 200ml) then oil level show correct. after driving a distance then oil level is low again.What can the cause be

have a wet and dry compression test done on the engine
compression pressure should be around 150-165 psi with a variation between adjacent cylinders or not more than 10%
If the compression is down to say 120 psi wet then the problem will be a worn engine
the smoke is there but the cat converter is doing its job and burning it off

Jan 18, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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My 2006 Nissan primastar burning engine oil

Do a dry compression test then wet, if compression is same wet as dry, then engine is worn or valves bent or worn, if one or more cilinders compression is higher for wet test, then you have broken ring(s).

Sep 29, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

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Steps to rear brake replacment

  1. Park the Dodge on a flat, level surface and engage the parking brake. Put two wedges of wood in front of your front wheels and two behind them.
  2. Put the jack under the back frame of the car and lift it up until the wheels are off the ground. Slide the two jack stands underneath the car right under the axles, one next to each wheel. Use the jack to lower the car onto the two jack stands.
  3. Loosen the lug nuts with the lug nut wrench, and remove the lug nuts and the two back wheels.
  4. Look for two bolts that are attached to the caliper. Remove them with the adjustable wrench. Lift up the caliper and set it on the axle, taking care not to let it fall and break.
  5. Compress the brake pads which, in turn, will compress the underlying piston. If they won't budge, use a C-clamp to compress them.
  6. Open the spring clips by prying with a screwdriver and take off the pads. And if the pads are stuck you can pry them off with the screwdriver as well.
  7. Rub a little bit of silicone grease onto the back of each new pad and put the pads in the correct position. Put the spring clips back in place to hold the pads in place.
  8. Put the caliper back in place and tighten the bolts.
  9. Reinstall the wheel and tighten the lug nuts. Lift up the car a little with the jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the Dodge all the way to the ground. Retighten the lug nuts.
  10. Lift up the hood and look for the master cylinder's brake fluid container on the driver's side of the car, closest to the driver. Top off the brake fluid, if needed.
You will need the following
  • 4 wood wedges
  • Lug wrench
  • Floor jack
  • 2 jack stands
  • Adjustable wrench
  • C-clamp (optional)
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • New brake pads
  • Silicone grease

Nov 15, 2010 | 1992 Dodge Caravan

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How to replace lug studs

You will need a special tool to press the lug studs in and out of the flange, or you can follow these directions;

First you will have to pound the broken lug stud(s) out of the wheel hub/flange, use a punch or a drift that is a little smaller in diameter than the lug stud, and be sure that you do not pound on the flange itself, then you will need a lug nut and about a half an inch thick of flat washers.

1. Insert the new lug stud through the wheel hub from behind so that the threaded end is facing out towards you and then put some grease on the threads.

2. Then slip the flat washers onto the lug stud followed by the lug nut, and run the lug nut down backwards with the flat end of the lug nut towards the flat washers to take up the slack and use plenty of grease on the threads.

3. Then using a breaker bar tighten the lug nut until it pulls the lug stud through the wheel hub and it is flush with the wheel hub.

Be sure that the amount of flat washers used will make up for any non-threaded part of the lug stud that might stick out past the wheel hub preventing the lug nut from pulling the lug stud all the way through the wheel hub, and basically you do not want the lug nut to run out of threads before it can pull the lug stud flush with the wheel hub.

Let me know if you require any further assistance.

Jul 31, 2010 | 1994 Honda Civic

1 Answer

1994 camry, won't start. Engine turns over freely, good spark on new plugs, Injectors switching ( tested with light bulb) plugs wet with petrol, checked timing belt, but ok and timing marks line up?

if you have spark and fuel and it is on time it should run if the compression is high enough was this car flooded really bad if so make sure your oil is OK the do a compression check dry and wet you may find when you you do your wet test that it brings the compression up enough to git the car started that would mean that your cylinders were washed out with gas causing the compression to go down

May 03, 2010 | 1994 Toyota Camry

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