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Noise in engine

Ticking noise in engine at first starts up

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  • Suzuki Master
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Can be very normal
you never said what engine option is in car. so.....????
impossible for answers.
no year stated, no engine stated.
strike 2.
all 2.5L v6 love to do that, SUZUKI has a TSB covering it.
try running spec oil.
try changing it more often preventing gum up of HLAs
the chain tensioner can fail, or not like your thin oil.

what oil are you running and for how many miles or years.

how many miles on engine.
what is oil change rate. 3k miles, 7K 10k 20k? what?

Posted on Apr 21, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: ticking noise

you need to give us more info about your car, based on your info i would say one of your valve lifters is bleeding off pressure when the engine is off, you can try putting 1/2 qt. of automatic transmission fluid in your engine oil, atf is a good cleaning agent and may clean your lifters up. i have done it many times

Posted on Dec 07, 2009

  • 92 Answers

SOURCE: how to solve engine lifter tick noise

Get the heads worked on or replaced it might need a valve lashment.

Posted on Jul 01, 2010

ZJLimited
  • 17970 Answers

SOURCE: ticking noise in my engine

Hi there:
First I sugest to check this information about "engine noses"...
ENGINE CLICKING NOISES
A clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.

First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.

COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISE
Worn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.

VALVE LASH NOISE
If you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.

To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).

On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.

DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISE
Inspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.

RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUND
Usually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.

Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.

Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.

ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATING
The cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

Posted on Aug 10, 2012

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I have never heard of an engine noise being described as a tick tack rattling noise. (I assume you mean Tick Tack candy/breathmints?) \

Either way, if it doesnt start, but just makes a rattling/knocking sound, I would ask you did it just quit on you and not restart? Or did it get you where you were going and then would not start when you were ready to leave? If the answer to the first question is yes, then you are likely facing a broken timing belt. The sound you hear are the valves coming into contact with the pistons when you are cranking the starter. This is a bad sound. Lets hope your answer was no to the first and yes to the second. Are you sure have gas? I cannot tell you how many times people have told me "It just won't start!" only to pour a gallon of gas in and varrroooom! What about oil? The tick tack sound just doesn't sound like a healthy engine sound in my head. Do you have oil in the engine? Does somebody hate you enough to drop nuts and bolts into your intake manifold? That would sound like tick tacks. BIG GIANT tick tacks, but tick tacks nonetheless.

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