Question about Nissan Hardbody
As of right now the harness is unplugged but with no power but with the harness plugged it runs rough and it doesn't idle.
I would say that if the engine is running ok with it unplugged then it is not working when you plug it up . Replace the sensor.
Posted on Mar 19, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: running rough
If your car is running rough and it's fuel injected (which yours is). Follow the air intake (black plastic box - housing the air filter that has tubing that goes to the motor) until it reaches the Throttle body (rounded metal air intake at the end of the plastic tube - has one large flap inside). You will want to remove the hose clamp and thoroughly clean the throttle body and the AIC (air idle control valve - small canister attached to the throttle body). Use off-the-shelf cleaner from any automotive store. This takes about 30mins to 1hr depending on your skill level. This will result in a cleaner smother idle and smoother performance. This is a common issue in today's cars. I have to do this once a yr to keep my modified car running happy.
Take a look at the later parts of this article for pictures to give you an idea:
Posted on Aug 07, 2009
Yes, replace the MAF, then check if the lean condition goes away. It should.
MAF's are sensitive to cleaning. Sometimes it works, other times it doesn't.
Posted on Dec 11, 2009
Here are the common cause of surges, cold stalls, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours.
To correct this problem I want you to get a can of intake cleaner (ABOUT $5.00) from any local auto parts store like NAPA or Carquest, do not use carburetor spray, intake cleaner only or u will damage the Teflon coating inside the throttle valve and air bypass valve, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.
Posted on May 25, 2010
Testimonial: "Thank you, I'm sure if your advice it was I'm looking for. But at least if this works, it will save me a lot money from having to replace expensive sensors."
SOURCE: I unplugged the Mass Airflow
Most likely if there is no mass air sensor you actually unplugged the inlet air temperature sensor IAT. This is a little bead like thermistor that sits in the ducted air stream to measure incoming air temperature. Without an air mass sensor your engine will have instead a manifold absolute (air) pressure MAP sensor. This measures the absolute air pressure (the difference between the atmospheric air pressure outside and the drop in pressure inside) in the inlet manifold. The drop in pressure in conjunction with air temperature allows the engine control unit to calculate the amount of air in the engine to which it adds the correct amount of fuel per each injection cycle. The loss of the IAT signal is not critical as the ECU will assume a default value. However when extreme low temperatures are encountered the absence of the IAT may be become noticeable as the charge of air entering the engine will be denser and as a consequence the fuel mix will be much leaner; maybe to lean to start up.
Posted on Sep 08, 2010
Testimonial: "Very helpful!! Gave me info that parts suppliers didn't have."
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