Question about 1993 Chevrolet S-10
Truck wont hardly idle ses light comes in and out or dim and shift light goes in and out to all the time sometimes. so trying check codes and tried snap on scanner and the jumper wire way doesnt do a thing
Now you need a wiring diagram & work your way back on all
of the ALDL Pins or wires, to see if their good end to end
Then you need to see what data some of them are supposed
to have at the connector.
21 years -- most likely some corrosion in the wiring, where somewhat exposed to the road,engine bay, etc
The ses light,idle,& such are another issue to work on.
I think the codes, if any, are less help than component testing
the vehicle sensors & wiring
The OBD1 Systems had common sensor wiring or grounds shared,
so grounds & failed sensors can effect other sensors & send
you all sorts of places, rather than walking down every wire with
a wiring diagram to see what's what
Posted on Mar 19, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
HI there....Check to see if the code reader is a CAN OBD 2 code reader. If it is only OBD2 , that may be the problem. In 2003 Some vehicle manufacturers ( ford,Gm,Mazda and Saab) began using a new computer protocol called Controller Area Network (CAN) with the OBD2 and if your vehicle is CAN OBD 2 the simple OBD2 code reader will not work.Contact your local dealer to determine if you vehicle is CAN or not or find a code reader that is CAN OBD2 capable. Hope this helps you out
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
Make sure there is no vacuum leaks.
Vacuum leak at intake manifold and vacuum hose.
Bad Idle Air Control Motor (IAC)
Low compression (170 psi + is OK)
Start cleaning and repair these trouble spots and see is there any improvement.
For more advance DIY'er then you may try this.
Use a can of Berryman carburetor clean to locate the vacuum leak.
SEE SAMPLE PICTURE HERE
This is a 20-30 minutes job.
Vacuum leaks can occur in following locations.
Intake manifold AND/OR vacuum lines.
Intake manifold is not accessible unless the engine head if off.
You can still check the potential leak by spraying some Berryman near the intake manifold.
Listen for rpm increase after you introduce the Berryman (FUEL) at idle.
Do the same starting from the brake booster unit (the round unit) on the drive side fire all.
Carefully listen for increase of RPM right after to spray the Berryman to the potential vacuum spot.
Get a friend to HEAR the RPM increase or monitor for RPM on the tech.
DO NOT AIM the Berryman into any heat source.
PLEASE RATE my answer if it is useful to you.
Posted on Dec 17, 2009
The only way those type of scanners will give you a code is if it is a hard code. When a check engine light is on, but doen's flash it is usually referring to an emission problem. A flashing light refers to misfire. Spark plugs, wire, etc. A snap on scanner or Genesis Scanner is able to look at perimeters inside the system which is a better approach when you don't have a hard code. Sometimes after the code is on long enough it will become a hard code and the type of scanner that you have will pull it. The thing that often happens is the EGR isn't circulating properly and you get an intermediate light and don't get a hard code for a while which leaves you in the dark. You might take your vehicle to a local service shop which uses a better scanner and they can look at what is going on and solve that problem.
Posted on Mar 07, 2010
Testimonial: "You are correct. However I'm not enen getting the code 12 that the system is working. I think my computer might be fried? "
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