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have a compression test done to check for bent valves
It is common for people to refit the head and cam shaft/s then attempt to turn the cam shaft or crank to get the valve timing right not realising that that causes valves to be bent
line up the marks on crank shaft gear arrow to arrow, the front cam gear the mark goes to the middle on the rear cam gear the mark goes one notch below front gear mark they line up when the tension is put on belt.
You have to retime it. You put number one cylinder at top dead center (TDC) of compression stroke, then drop in the distributor so the rotor is pointing to number one tower on the distributor cap. To find TDC of compression stroke, remove number one spark plug. Use a socket and ratchet on the crank pulley and turn clockwise. Keep a finger over the number one spark plug hole. When turning the crankshaft and you feel pressure against your finger, the number one piston is rising on the compression stroke. Now use the ratchet and turn the crankshaft on around until the crank pulley notch lines up with the zero mark on the pointer scale. Piston will now be at TDC. You can now drop in the distributor. When seated, the rotor must be pointing to the number one cylinder on the dist. cap tower. Dist. shaft will turn as it is seating-if you get it wrong, pull up distributor and reposition the shaft until it drops down into the exact right position. When done, start the engine and use timing light to set the timing to specs.
Make shore valve timing is correct compression test all cylinders same new spark plugs set ignition timing check ignition leads and vacuum hoses adjust tappets .make sure crank shaft on TDC cam shaft on number one cylinder valves close and cam pulley on marks belt tide fit distributor firing number one cylinder line up rotor and distributor cup lead to that .
Hi Robert, It would help to know what engine is in your vehicle? A rule of thumb way to set up the valve timing is as follows. Rotate the crank shaft until the crank shaft mark is about 90 degrees from TDC. This will protect the valves from damage when rotating the cams to align them. With the tappet cover removed rotate the cam shaft or shafts so that the number one cylinder is on compression (both inlet and exhaust valves fully closed) and the last cylinder in line on overlap, Look for adjacent timing marks on the cam gears and somewhere close to those look for the alignment marks (maybe notch marks, holes or indented match marks). (Some manufactures use the machined gasket surface where the tappet cover closes onto the cylinder head). Look closely for the static mark on the cylinder head and align the cam(s) to it or them. Once completed, set the crank at Top Dead Center and look carefully for a timing mark which aligns with the gear and set them. Fit the belt so the marks align when the tensioner bearing is released and presses the belt under load. (follow the manufactures recommended tightening instructions.) . (Remember never to crimp a timing belt, if it has been, throw it away and get another, even if it is new!) If the belt snapped and that is the reason for replacement, internal damage may have resulted inside the engine. A snapped belt may cause damage to the valves, the camshafts, the cam shaft caps and to the pistons. If the engine turns much faster than expected and sounds as if there is no compression, you have problems! (Those I've just mentioned. I hope not for your sake. best of luck Regards John
It is possible to set the timing wrong....if the belt broke well running I believe this is an interference motor..meaning if the timing is off the cylinder can move up and smack a Valve being exhaust or intake. which means a valve can break or bend cause lack of seal thus no compression. When setting the timing you want to align your marks with Cylinder # 1 it needs to be on the compression stroke..you can do this by removing cyl 1 spark plug and rotating the crankshaft with your finger over the spark plug hole you will feel air press against your finger meaning all valves are closed and your in compression stroke. Then line up your marks and you should have it...I would consider purchasing a compression tester to make sure no damage to the cylinder head....good luck hope this helps
I've had a few of these engines break the cam shaft after cylinder #4. meaning #5 & #6 have no compression, but also no oil pressure due to no oil pump drive from cam shaft. 2 out of 3 times the engine was toast. If it truly skipped the timing, then you will need a timing chain and sprockets. When the timing skips or the cam shaft breaks, the pistons will definitely hit the valves and bend them, thus no compression. I'd recommend tearing down the engine yourself and determine what went. To check the cam shaft, remove the front valve cover and watch the rockers for cylinder #6, if they don't move then broken cam shaft.
the valves are bent if you lost the timing belt you need to do a compression test. the low cylinder needs a leakage test to see where it is losing compression you can get each cylinder on compression stroke and put air pressure in the spark plug hole and listen to the exhaust pipe if you hear it hissing the exhaust valve is bent for that cylinder if you hear through the throttle body the intake is bent on that cylinder if you hear it in the valve cover with the oil cap off then the rings are leaking
The crankshaft pulley has a hole in it, just above the key. It should be straight up and lined up with the mark on the engine.
The cam pulley also has a hole, and it should be lined up with the little v in your camshaft cover. Put the belt on, line it up, and turn the engine over with a wrench or socket, 2 complete revolutions. Everything should be exactly the same place as when you lined it up. If not, you are out one cog, and will have to do it again.
Make sure the cam is on compression stroke when you line it up. Both valves on #1 cylinder should be fully up... in the closed position.