Question about 1995 Chevrolet Blazer
Not the rear end and brakes looked alright except rear passenger was "greasy" compared to opposite rear which was bone dry
The greasy one has a seal leaking between the backing plate and the brakes (axle seal) which in turn will cause your brakes to grab on that wheel when you apply the brakes. Remove the axle and replace the seal. Then thoroughly clean the brake shoes and backing plate until they appear bone-dry like the other side. This should solve your problem. Make sure the rear-end grease level is full when you finish.
Posted on Mar 18, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Only two things should normally activate the light:
Parking Brake engaged switch.
Low Fluid level in master cylinder.
I don't think you did any work to the Parking brake, but you should check it to be sure.
I believe that you would have double checked the fluid level, but please check it again.
Other things that could activate the light would be a worn or leaking master cylinder; improper brake fluid type; a damaged brake booster diphragm .
I have attached a link with excellent info on how a brake system works here.
Also, does the light always stay on, or only when you apply the brakes?
Posted on Jun 25, 2008
This is a common problem on the blazer. If you can hear the rod actuator working, then the actuator rod to latch rod connector has broken. It's plastic, and a poor GM design.
To get the rear hatch open you will need to manualy release it. It can be done by working as much of the plastic tailgate trim you can get loose, from around the top center of the gate, where the latch is. remove the 2 screws that hold the handle on and remove handle. Then pry as much as you need to access the c type latch, and release it by moving it... it's spring loaded and will only move one way. Haveing someone help you lift the hatch while you unlatch it from inside the vehicle helps. After you get the hatch up and the tailgate folded down, make sure the latch is locked in the open position.
The actuator can be repaired, i've done it several times. GM will try and sell you a new one, which is rather costly compared to the $8.00 piece of plastic you need.
Good luck and i hope this helps.
Level II+ diesel and heavy equipment tech.
Posted on Mar 01, 2009
not the springs in most cases just the bushings they ride in, also check for lack of lubrication of the leafs, they have nylon slide strips between the leafs, but they fall out and then the spring loads up on braking and then unwind and you fell a thunk when it does so, there is a special grease injection tool/tip for a grease gun that is used to get grease into the leaf segments that really helps, use a Teflon based grease to to this, it is blue in color and available at many up scale parts stores like NAPA and Carquest.
Posted on Apr 01, 2009
Just did my rear brakes this weekend, Monday had a very slight drag. Noted that when I installed new pads I had to tap them on. That shouldn't be. When brakes are released, there should be enough play to allow the pads to back off the disc. Tonight, I removed the pads and filed down the ends of the tips that go into the top and bottom channels until I could install and remove them with fingertips, that gives them enough play to grab and release. Drag disappeared; the old girl ran like she should.
Posted on Feb 16, 2010
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