Question about Pontiac Montana
I was told i needed to take the intake manifold out and clean the carbon... just would like a second opinon
Sounds good. You could also put some Sea Foam in your oil and gas and let it burn though a cycle. Or if you are really desperate. Take one end of the vacuum hose off your brake booster and put the end in a can of Seas Foam and let the manifold suck it up in the engine. It will blow white smoke for about 5 mins but cleans VERY fast. I have fixed lots of EGR\'s this way
Posted on Mar 18, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If the 2005 Montana is similar to the 2001 Montana, I have a solution. First you'll need a hexagonal wrench (the 6-sided L-shaped wrench). The tail light assembly is held on by two screws. You'll need the hexagonal wrench to remove them, because a normal screwdriver won't do it. I also had to use a conventional adjustable wrench to get the leverage to turn the hexagonal wrench, because the screws were in there pretty tight. Once you remove the two screws, the whole tail light assembly should come off. Mine required a little force and I had to play with it a bit, but it came off without a lot of work. There will be one set of wires that connects the tail light assembly to the rest of the minivan--try not to damage that set of wires. Once you get the tail light assembly off, you'll have to take apart the assembly that actually holds the lights. No tools should be required. It's held on by four plastic catches. Just undo the catches (easier said than done, but still not too tough) and it comes apart. Then you can pop out the old light and pop in the new light. Then re-assemble. For me, it went back together much easier than it came apart.
Posted on Jan 03, 2009
For the sliding doors you need to clean the contacts, there are 6 or 8 on both sides, just wipe them clean as they are probably covered in oil/grease/grime.
Posted on Feb 14, 2009
The BCM program fuse on a 2005 Montanna SV6 is called something different in the manual. It's called a “Keyless Entry Module” fuse and it is fuse #7. The fuse panel is located on the passenger side on the side of the dash. There is a cover with an indent hole in it to pull the fuse cover off. It's really hard to pull it off and it almost seems like your going to break it when your trying to get if off. Keep pulling, it will come off! On the fuse cover, fuse #7 is labeled " RFA MDLS" which is again different than what is in the manual. I followed the procedure to reprogram my "Key Fob" and within 45secs, I had reprogrammed my key FOB! I was so excited, because, I have been trying locate the BCM fuse for 4 weeks. I think GMC does not want us to know it’s location or name, so you would have to go into a dealership to get your Key Fobs reprogrammed costing about a $100 for a minute of work.
1. Keep the windows open as a safety measure, then,
2. Remove the ignition key from the ignition lock cylinder.
3. Remove the “RFA MDLS” (fuse #7 ,BCM PRGRM fuse, Keyless Entry fuse) from the fuse panel.
4. Close all of the doors.
5. Close the liftgate.
6. Turn the ignition lock cylinder to ACC.
7. Turn the ignition lock cylinder to OFF, and then back to ACC within 1 second.
8. Open and close any vehicle door. A chime will be heard when the system enters the BCM programming/diagnostic mode.
9. Press and hold the transmitter LOCK and UNLOCK buttons simultaneously for 14 seconds.
After 7 seconds, a chime may be heard confirming successful programming.
11. Repeat the previous step on each additional transmitter to be programmed.
12. Remove the ignition key from the ignition lock cylinder
13. Install the “RFA MDLS” fuse ( fuse #7 ,BCM PRGRM fuse, Keyless Entry fuse) back into the fuse panel.
14. Press on the key fob functions (EG. Lock, Unlock) to verify correct operation.
Posted on Jun 08, 2009
I have a 2006 SV6 with the power sliding doors. The problem that I found was with the contacts on the door ( They are called plungers) the movable pins were losing connection with the fixed part The plunger is very easy to replace if you can find one. The plungers are covered with a rubber cover and is held in place with 2 plastic pins. My Pontiac dealer could not even find one in his books or even a picture of one, and claimed that he had never had anyone come with a door problem. My Chevy dealer said that it came with a wiring harness that is not needed for $154. The cure that I came up with was to take the plunger block apart (it snaps together)and replace the rusted out springs then solder 3" wires to the end of the plunger pins (they solder easy) to the tabs that go to the plug(pop out the tabs or you will melt the plastic. It took about 45 min. now the doors work like new and will never loose contact again
Posted on Aug 02, 2010
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