Question about 2004 Ford Taurus

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First a rattling noise, which my mechanic said was the compressor going bad. One day later it started dying when stopping or going slowy. I used a friend's OBD11 and got the codes 0511 and 1634 (actua

I did not replace the a/c comprmessor yet.

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  • 64 Answers

Sounds like a bad alternator

Posted on Mar 19, 2014

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Idel problems with 1999 Taurus wagon

If there is no check engine light on I would go the local auto parts
store and check out the TP sensore first and then the Mass air flow...

Posted on May 28, 2008

  • 2427 Answers

SOURCE: 1993 Ford Van Econoline 150

Try changing the throttle body position sensor, or the ideling screw. , Service the fuel injection system (injectors and filter) have the gas tank washed as there could be rust paricles in it. and if that fails you will need to have an engine job done. Chances are the pistons are worn out or the rings are bad.

Other possible causes are the torque converter or the transmission itself, However if it coccurs with the ac, it means that it happens when extra stress is on the engine. This is caused by eighter the fuel system or the engine itself.

Posted on Jul 30, 2008

fastboyz
  • 674 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 Ford Escort idle problems

you need to look for a vacume leak thsi would also make your IAC valve go beyond range.good luck

Posted on Sep 12, 2008

  • 57 Answers

SOURCE: My 2002 Ford Taurus will shutter and die when

the idle air control valve is responsible for engine idle.
this is a common failure on ford's. but I don't think yours is bad because it does idle high befor it dies.
you stated you had codes p0171 and p0174 these are lean codes for bank one and two, you said you found a vacuum leak and repaired it, the vacuum leak was mostly likely the cause of the lean codes, however the pcm has calibrated the fueling stategy for this lean mixture, what you need to do is erase the KAM "keep alive memory" this is done by unhooking the negative battery cable for 60 seconds, this is the only way to erase the KAM the $6000.00 machine I use wont even do it.

once the KAM is clean the computer will go into a relearn state and all operating values will be adjusted for the vehicles current condition, during this relearn session the vehicle may have some driveability issues (low or high idle, stalling, poor fuel economy) the relearn should complete within 10 minutes of idling and then 10 minutes of driving.

good luck and keep me updated

wesleyschacht@hotmail.com

Posted on Jun 14, 2009

  • 171 Answers

SOURCE: 1985 ford F150 is running very rich. (choke is

When you say it's destroying the air filter---do you mean it's all sooted up ?? I am assuming that what you mean.
Try disconnecting the vacuum line at the egr valve and see if that helps.
But it sounds more like a plugged up exhaust system.Try disconnecting or looosing the flange before the cataylic convertor and then see how it runs.

Posted on Nov 20, 2009

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2 Answers

Brakes make a whistle noise when applied and sometimes a low grown or grinding when coming to a slow stop or start.


A grinding or rumbling noise can also be symptoms of a wheel bearing or constant velocity joint in a driveshaft. A worn wheel bearing can also cause a 'whistling' sound (as can a worn CV joint).

A grinding noise with brakes is either worn pads causing metal to metal contact on the brake disk/rotor, or the brake backing plate catching on a spinning rotor ... or a loose/missing anti squeal brake shim (they stop the pads from rattling and vibrating).

However, as you say a mechanic has looked at the brakes and can't find anything wrong .. I think I would begin to suspect a wheel bearing or constant velocity joint on the driveshaft (front wheel drive cars).

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I would suggest getting in contact with the shop that worked on the A/C. I think I actually would have gotten ahold of them when I heard a rattle.

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My 1998 sebring 6cyl makes a metal on metal noise on the side of my engine by the belts i tried greaseing all the pullys and i used belt noise sparay but it becomes lower and then it becomes higher ???...


sounds to me from the brief description like you have either a water pump rattling, or a timing chain coming slack. Is the noise coming from the alternator? Never grease pulleys, ever. also the stop squeak spray is bad for your belts. Don't know why they even sell it. If you listen carefully you may be able to pin point the rattle. Is this a tick tick tick, or a rattle rattle rattle? Does sound like a water pump rattle or timing chain slap though. Hope this helps

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Sounds like it is clicking in and out which meens its eather low on freon or maybe a bad low pressure switch ? Expansion valve maybe clogged (could be more but too hard to get into?) you do not have orifis tube...hope this helped you?

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I have a 2001 Ford ranger supercab that makes rattling noises. It has a 4.0L SOHC. It makes a very fast and loud metallic rattle wich softens anfter about a second or so when I first start it for the day....


4.0l's are notorious for valve rattle on cold start-up. There is really nothing you can do to make it go away short of completely replacing the valve train in the top end, and that isn't a permanent fix. It's is an top end oiling issue from the factory. Just don't race your engine on cold start-up until the rattle stops.

The rattle in the transmission sounds to me to be more of a loose dust shield/heat shield around the transmission or exhaust than a mechanical issue.

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Our 2000 Merc Villager had the engine light on and was making some sputtering noises. It died in the middle of my husband driving it. We went to have it towed the next morning and it started okay so he...


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it sounds like your alternator let go, therefore your battery is not charging, you will need to investigate further but the rattling would be explained by the alternator mechanically breaking internally and failing to charge the battery resulting in your present situation

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