Question about 1994 Toyota Corolla

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Toyota Carina loss of power

The rear engine crankshaft seal and torque converter seal was recently replaced. It started heating up when I reached home. I have replaced the thermostat and fan relays. Now during driving the temp gauge is half way but when the car is stationery it comes abit above the 1/2 mark.
Also when climbing a hill or moving from a stationey position it doesnt have enough power and the engine revs to 3000rpm and starts to be jerky.

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  • Ned C Cook
    Ned C Cook May 11, 2010

    back to the shop. How is the power when at cruisibg speed?.

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  • Master
  • 749 Answers

Lets start with the heating up problem!
replacing the thermostat and relay has nothing to do with it. common causes of heating up are improper valve setting timing, mismatch air-fuel ratio, worn-out piston rings, poor oil flow, poor radiator coolant flow.
i suppose you have changed your car motor oil. recheck if its on the right amount.


loss of power:
Common Causes
loose piston rings (causing insufficient compression: indications fog like smoke), air-fuel ratio incorrect, blockage in air intake.

check also for air on the fuel hoses if you experience often jurking problems regularly clean fuel strainers or filters.




Posted on Jun 14, 2009

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I just replaced my engine for a 06 chrysler 300. Started up fine. But when I put it in gear i get this knocking noise from the bell housing area.


You either left the torque converter bolts loose or the flex plate (flywheel) is Cracked, Usually around crankshaft flange. You can check the bolts without removing the engine, but the flex plate will require engine removal. Look in inspection opening while engine is running and check for run out (rotational wobble) of flex plate. This condition will cause extensive damage to torque converter and front pump seal in the transmission.

Feb 28, 2017 | Chrysler Cars & Trucks

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Crankshaft seal on a 2005 chevy equinox


If you're looking for the seal -have a look on Ebay:
1 042results for equinox crankshaft seal

If your question relates to a leak, a classic symptom of a leaking crankshaft seal is drips of oil from the bell housing - where the transmission attaches to the engine. It only leaks when the engine is running.

To replace the seal you need to remove the transmission/clutch/flywheel assembly -or in the case of auto transmission - the torque converter which attaches to the rear of the engine.

To remove the old seal you simply prise it out with a screwdriver, lubricate the new seal and gently tap it into position. However as mentioned, you need to remove the transmission first..

Oct 23, 2016 | 2005 Chevrolet Equinox

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How does a worn crankshaft bush effect a torque converter


Check the hub. You should inspect the old torque converter you are removing for damage to the converter hub that rides in the pump of the transmission. If you find any wear on the hub at all, you should replace both seal and bushing. If you find no wear at all, you may be fine with just a seal replacement. You should at least do one (seal) if not both. (seal & bushing).

Here is a link for further information:

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Feb 17, 2015 | 2007 Hyundai Atos Prime

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Transmission teardown time


New seals about 5 1/2 hours.
Information Skill Level Mfg. Warranty Standard Automatic Transmission/Transaxle
Diagnose/Test
4 Speed
41TE
Transaxle, Diagnosis
Includes: Time To Hook-Up And Disconnect Test Equipment. Checking System For Fault Codes, Road Test And Hydraulic Pressure Test As Required.
A 0.0 1.8 Replace
4 Speed
41TE
Complete Assembly Without Transfer Of Parts
B 5.6 7.0 NOTE
To R&R Driveplate, Add
B 0.2 0.2 To R&R Torque Converter, Add
B 0.2 0.2 With AWD, Add
B 0.6 0.9 Complete Assembly With Transfer Of Parts
Includes: R&I Transaxle.
B 5.6 7.0 NOTE
To R&R Driveplate, Add
B 0.2 0.2 To R&R Torque Converter, Add
B 0.0 0.2 To Flush Cooler Lines, Add
B 0.0 0.6 To Replace Crankshaft Rear Main Oil Seal, Add
B 0.3 0.5 With AWD, Add
B 0.6 0.9 Overhaul/Rebuild
4 Speed
41TE
Includes: R&I Transaxle.
A 10.4 13.9 NOTE
To R&R Torque Converter, Add
A 0.0 0.2 To Overhaul Differential, Add
A 0.0 1.5 To Flush Cooler Lines, Add
A 0.0 0.6 To Overhaul Valve Body, Add
A 0.0 1.5 To Replace Crankshaft Rear Main Oil Seal, Add
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Jan 13, 2014 | Chrysler Pacifica Cars & Trucks

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Oil leak at rear of engine seems to run down between transmission and engine only when it is running


That's called a rear main seal. It seals the crankshaft exit point where it enters the torque converter / transmission. If your leak is here on the rear main, then you'll need to pull the ****** to change it out. If your leak is higher up, it may not be the rear main, it could be valve cover, if its lower than that, it could be the oil pan gasket. SInce it occurs only when running, it sounds like the rear main though. sorry. :(

Aug 07, 2011 | 1995 Honda Odyssey

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When you add tran fluid it makes your oil level go up


If you mean engine oil level, impossible! If the transmission oil seal or the torque converter were leaking the oil would run out of the bell housing. There is no way it could force its way into the engine, it would have to half fill the bell housing and then get through the rear crankshaft seal.

Apr 01, 2011 | Buick Park Avenue Cars & Trucks

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How to do an oilpan on a 88 chevy montecarlo


  1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
  2. Remove air cleaner.
  3. Remove upper fail shroud (V8)
  4. Raise vehicle and drain oil pan.
  5. Disconnect A.I.R. hose at converter pipe (V8)
  6. Disconnect A.I.R. pipe at exhaust manifold (V8)
  7. Remove exhaust crossover pipe at manifold and converter.
  8. Remove starter.
  9. Remove flywheel cover.
  10. Disconnect transmission oil cooler lines at oil pan.
  11. Remove engine mount 'through' bolts on V8. Loosen right bolt and remove left on V6.
  12. Remove oil pan bolts and lower oil pan. Check that forward crankshaft throw and/or counter balance weight are not extending downward so to block oil pan removal. Turn crankshaft, necessary, to put throw on horizontal plane.
  13. Raise engine.
  14. Remove oil pan.
Installation


  1. Clean sealing surfaces on cylinder case and pan.
  2. Check oil pan gasket for damage; replace if necessary.
  3. Apply a small amount of 1052751 or equivalent to front and rear corners of oil pan.
NOTICE: Only a small amount of sealant is required. Excessive amounts of sealant may cause a problem with proper sealing of oil pan.


  1. Install retaining bolts and torque to 9 N.m (80 lb. in.).
  2. Raise engine, if necessary.
  3. Lower engine, install mount 'through' bolts and torque to 50 lb. ft. (65 N.m).
  4. Install torque converter cover.
  5. Install starter.
  6. Install exhaust crossover pipe at manifold and converter.
  7. Lower vehicle.
  8. Install fan shroud.
  9. Install air cleaner.
  10. Fill crankcase with oil.
  11. Connect battery negative cable, start engine and check for leaks.

Nov 30, 2010 | 1987 Chevrolet Monte Carlo

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Rear barring an seal replaced


I'm not sure if this is the right part of your car but, are you talking about the rear seal on the engine for the crankshaft?

If so:

Rear Main Oil Seal REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Rear main seal installation for the 2.3L and 2.5L engines 85553306.gif
Fig. 2: Removing the rear main seal 85553307.gif
Fig. 3: Installing the rear main seal on the 2.9L engines 85553308.gif
If the crankshaft rear oil seal replacement is the only operation being performed, it can be done in the vehicle as detailed in the following procedure. If the oil seal is being replaced in conjunction with a rear main bearing replacement, the engine must be removed from the vehicle and installed on a work stand.
  1. Remove the starter.
  2. Remove the transmission from the vehicle, following the procedures in Section 7.
  3. On a manual shift transmission, remove the pressure plate and cover assembly and the clutch disc following the procedure in Section 7.
  4. Remove the flywheel attaching bolts and remove the flywheel and engine rear cover plate.
  5. Use an awl to punch two holes in the crankshaft rear oil seal. Punch the holes on opposite sides of the crankshaft and just above the bearing cap to cylinder block split line. Install a sheet metal screw in each hole. Use two large screwdrivers or small pry bars and pry against both screws at the same time to remove the crankshaft rear oil seal. It may be necessary to place small blocks of wood against the cylinder block to provide a fulcrum point for the pry bars. Use caution throughout this procedure to avoid scratching or otherwise damaging the crankshaft oil seal surface. To install:
  6. Clean the oil seal recess in the cylinder block and main bearing cap.
  7. Clean, inspect and polish the rear oil seal rubbing surface on the crankshaft. Coat a new oil seal and the crankshaft with a light film of engine oil. Start the seal in the recess with the seal lip facing forward and install it with a seal driver. Keep the tool, T82L-6701-A (4-cyl. engines) or T72C-6165 (6-cyl. engine) straight with the centerline of the crankshaft and install the seal until the tool contacts the cylinder block surface. Remove the tool and inspect the seal to be sure it was not damaged during installation.
  8. Install the engine rear cover plate. Position the flywheel on the crankshaft flange. Coat the threads of the flywheel attaching bolts with oil-resistant sealer and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts in sequence across from each other to the specifications listed in the torque chart in this section.
  9. On a manual shift transmission, install the clutch disc and the pressure plate assembly following the procedure in Section 7.
  10. Install the transmission, following the procedure in Section 7.
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Oct 07, 2010 | 1994 Ford Explorer Limited

1 Answer

I have a 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix, it is supercharged 3800. I have about 115,000 miles on it and I change the oil every 3,000 miles, check fluids, regular preventative maintenance, etc. I noticed a small...


If it's oil, it's coming from the rear main seal.. I would go with this idea.

The seal doesn't cost much but the labor to get to it does.

To give you an idea what is involved the procedure is illustrated below from the service manual:

Removal & Installation 3.8L Engine To Remove:
  1. Drain the engine coolant.
  2. Drain the engine oil.
  3. Remove the oil pan.
  4. Remove the engine flywheel.
  5. Remove the rear oil seal housing and gasket. Rear seal removal 3.8L gm-03-38-1175.gif

  6. Remove the rear main seal by placing the housing face down on 2 blocks of wood. Using a drift tool and hammer tap the seal out of the housing.
To Install:
NOTE: Do not lubricate the rear main oil seal or the installation tool. Do not touch the sealing lip of the rear main seal once the protective sleeve is removed.
NOTE: Use a clean lint free cloth to clean the crankshaft sealing surface. Remove sharp edges or burrs that could damage the rear main oil seal. Remove burrs or sharp edges with a crocus cloth.
  1. Carefully remove the rear oil seal from the protective sleeve.
  2. Install the oil seal onto the seal driver EN-47623 or equivalent by placing the seal at an angle and twisting until it is fully seated.
  3. Install the seal into the housing using the seal driver EN-47623 or equivalent and driver handle J-8092 or equivalent. Apply downward force until the seal is seated. NOTE: Ensure that the housing gasket is installed correctly and that the oil passages are not blocked.
  4. Using a new gasket Install the rear oil seal housing on the engine being careful not damage the rear main seal. NOTE: The plastic inserts are used in production and are not needed for assembly.
  5. Hand tighten the bolts. Rear seal housing alignment 3.8L gm-03-38-1176.gif

  6. Place a straight edge on the crankshaft rear oil seal housing flange and the engine block oil pan flange. Using a feeler gauge check that there is no more than .0004 in (0.10 mm) step on each side. Rotate the housing to make the steps equal on both sides.
  7. Tighten the housing bolts 11 ft-lb (15 Nm) plus an additional 50 degrees.
  8. Ensure that the housing did not move out of specification. Repeat step 6 if the oil seal housing is not within the specified range. Replace the rear oil seal housing if the specified measurement can not be reached.
  9. Install the flywheel.
  10. Install the oil pan.
  11. Fill the engine oil and the cooling system.
  12. Check for leaks
5.3L Engine To Remove:
  1. Remove the flywheel from the crankshaft.
  2. Remove and discard the crankshaft rear oil seal from the rear cover.
To Install:
  1. Use clean engine oil to lubricate the outside diameter of the crankshaft rear oil seal and rear cover oil seal bore.
  2. Install the tapered cone and bolts of a J 41479 or equivalent crankshaft rear oil seal installer onto the crankshaft.
  3. Place the crankshaft rear oil seal onto the tapered cone.
  4. Install the threaded rod of the J 41479 crankshaft rear oil seal installer into the tapered cone. Rear main seal installer 5.3L gm-03-53-3872.gif

  5. Install the crankshaft rear oil seal by turning the handle of the J 41479 clockwise.
  6. Remove the J 41479 crankshaft rear oil seal installer from the crankshaft.
  7. Install the flywheel onto the crankshaft.
prev.gif next.gif--- I'm not sure what the exact cost would be as the hours were not listed for this procedure on my online resource.

Sep 02, 2010 | 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix

1 Answer

Losing oil form flywheel end of crankshaft. Already changed seal twice but ain't made any difference. any suggestions?


yes , depending on wheter you talking about torque converter seal or rear engine main seal , on trans if your front pump bushing has excessive wear then it will not seal because the torque converter input shaft will ride on seal more than it is supposed to and also it will not run true, also check TC mounting of flex plate if you flex plate is not centered then it will rotate out of balance and cause leaks and pump damage, if you talking about a rear main engine seal you may have a issue with run out and or bearing wear issues cause seal to not be able to do its job, check all those issues, crank shaft end play as well as up and down play and check rotational run out on TC of trans and pump bushing in trans pump... hope this helps, thanks please rate...

Aug 07, 2009 | 2001 Hyundai Accent

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