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I pulled all wires from injectors and coils and i need to know what color wires go where

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Should be able to find firing order and injector lead diagram in Haynes Manuel

Posted on Mar 20, 2014


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I have a 2002 ford escape i have replaced coils plugs injectors cat and have good compression am getting fire need to know what color the wires are for injector 6 still missfire

The easiest way to test if the wires to #6 are sending the signal to the injector is to get a noid light and plug it into the harness at the injector providing there is room to access the injector from the injector.

Often times, the positive voltage feeds all the injectors, while the PCM applies ground to each individual injector.

You will need to test continuity from the #6 injector to the PCM with an Ohm test providing you have 12 volts at the injector. The ground opens and shuts once with each intake cycle to provide a fuel charge, so it will blink rapidly. That is normal. If the noid light does not come on but you confirmed 12 volts positive, but no ground then you have an open between the injector and the PCM. If the noid light comes on but does not flash or flicker, then there's either a short to ground in the wire from the injector to the PCM, or a faulty driver within the PCM itself causing an internal short.

Nov 24, 2017 | 2002 Ford Escape

1 Answer

Ineed the diagram for toyota tercel 99 fuel injector wires colors for each cilinder

This '99 Tercel is not sold in the U.S., so maybe can't help. car models listed are Avalon, Camry, Celica, and
Nearest to a Tercel would be the Corolla, so here is the wire colors for that: the power wire for all injectors is the same spliced wire- it is a black/white wire. The ground wires for each injector (the wires that go into the ecu for internal grounding which causes the injector to pulse), are as follows: #1 injector is a yellow wire, #2 injector is a white wire, #3 injector is a B-R wire- don't know if that means a brown and red stripe wire, or a black with red stripe.
#4 injector is listed as a B wire- just the single color, I think that would be black, not brown. And so I think #3 would be Black with a red stripe.

there you go, maybe it will help you, maybe not, but you get the picture: all the power wires are the same color, the ground wires will be the different color wires.-

May 30, 2017 | Toyota Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What are the fuel injector wire colors for a ford escape 2008 3.0L v6 4wheel drive?

Okay, you know each injector has a power wire, and a ground wire that goes into the pcm? All of the power wires to all six injectors is a green wire with a red stripe.

The ground wire colors are as follows:
inj 1: green wire/blue stripe.
Inj 2: gray wire/yellow stripe
Inj 3: violet wire/gray stripe
Inj 4: yellow wire/orange stripe
Inj 5: brown wire
Inj 6: green wire/white stripe

I should note that the wiring diagram I am looking at shows this diagram as from a 2008 model manufactured during 2nd quarter of the year 2008. If your injector wire colors are different than as listed above, there may have been production changes during the year. But the power wires to all six injectors would still have the same color wire. You could figure it out that way: in other words, looking at the injector harness, same wire color to all six is the power wire, all the odd colors are the ground wire for that injector. Hope this makes sense to you. Good luck.

Feb 03, 2015 | Ford Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

What could be the causes of injectors not opening and spark plugs not firing

A long list of things. From fuses to ignition switch to ecu to security alarm and more.

Here is how to start looking: Turn the key to on. Do the dash gauges and warning lights and check engine light come on? Then power is getting to the switch and being sent out from it. Next, use a test light and check for power TO the coils and TO the injectors with key on. All four injectors use the same color power wire. My wiring diagram is poor quality, but it looks like a green wire or possibly a gray wire-remember same color power wire to all injectors-the other injector wire is a ground wire, and they are all different colors. Pull one injector connector off and check for power on one terminal with key on. And could do the same at the coil pack. With key on, the white wire with red stripe to the coils should have power-actually, the white wire is spliced and two white wires are shown going to coil pack-this is the primary current to the coils- is hot in run or start.

If no power to coil or injectors, here are the fuses to check: in the under hood fuse/relay block: ecu-10 amp fuse, Eng-15 amp fuse, and these maxi fuses: fuel inj-30 amp fuse, Main- 80 amp fuse, Ign-40 amp fuse. And one more- a designated Main fuse-15 amp fuse.
If these fuses are good, should have power going to injectors and the coil pack with key on. If the key is turning on the dash, some of those fuses are known good, but need to check all of those listed.

I will stop here, and wait for your reply. You get this far, you are on the way to diagnosing the problem.

May 07, 2014 | 2000 Kia Sportage

1 Answer

Not getting fire

You may be geting gas from the fuel pump but are the injector working or do they have power going to them. You can check the dark green & orange wire at any injector. Also check for power at the plug of the coil (there are two together but both get power from one place). The power wire for the coil also happens to be dark green and orange. If you are not getttting power to either one, check the auto shutdown relay (ASD). This relay stops power to the injectors and the coil but the fuel pump will still work. It doesn't shut down the fuel pump. You can let me know here or you can email me directly at with all your information and I will be happy to help and no there is no cost. Just need to be sure if this is the case first (the ASD relay) to go any further. Also if you have a turbo this information isn't correct as far as the wire coloring goes.

Apr 05, 2012 | 2007 Chrysler PT Cruiser Touring Hatchback

1 Answer

Hi I have a 1999 1.8 ford focus its misfiring on cylinders 1

Remove the top cover on the valve cover concealing the coils. Remove and inspect the spark plugs, and replace as necessary. Start the engine and see if the miss has been eliminated. If the miss is still there, a problem could also exist in the wires or coil or even the fuel injector, which will all need to be addressed as the diagnosis progresses. A fuel injector will cause the same type of a miss if it sticks.

  • 2 Mist the spark plug wires, and watch for evidence of arcing to the cylinder head cover. This will indicate a bad wire. If this is visible, then replace the spark plug wires.
  • 3 Turn the engine off, and loosen the wires at the coil by giving them a twist and pulling them out of the coil. Leave them on the coils--you just want to loosen them a bit to make the next step easier.
  • 4 Start the engine. Using a pair of pliers with insulated handles, pull one plug wire out of the coil at a time and watch for a noticeable drop in engine RPM. The cylinder that has no drop or noticeable decline in RPM is the one causing the miss. Also when the wire is removed, watch for a good spark at the coil to the wire when the wire is held close to the coil. This could indicate a bad coil if the plug wire checks out fine.
  • 5 Check the suspect wire with the Ohm meter, and test for continuity through the wire. If there is continuity, the miss is still present and there is no spark to the wire when it is removed from the coil, replace the coil.
  • 6 Check the fuel injectors. If the plugs and wires are good and there is a spark at the coil to wire test, then checking the injectors is the next step. If this is fine, then a compression test should be done to locate an internal engine problem. Start the engine, and remove the electrical connectors to the fuel injectors one at a time and listen for a significant engine RPM drop. If one cylinder is found to make no difference or very little in comparison to the others, replace the injector.
  • Oct 19, 2011 | 2000 Ford Focus

    1 Answer

    I have a Pontiac G5 2008 2.2 i have a Check engine light on as well as a Service Traction control light on i have changed the spark plugs, boots, oil, air filter, as well as put sea-foam in the gas...

    Do you know how to test electrical circuit's with a volt meter ? Power an grounds and control for the coil #3 cylinder ,plus fuel injector ? If you don't know how to do automotive electrical circuit testing ,your best bet would be to take it to a qualified repair shop. The coil is computer controlled , pull it an see if you see or hear it sparking . Is the fuel injector firing. ? Videos on youtube showing how to test. Do you know what a wiring diagram is ? Free one's here Enter vehicle info. year ,make , model and engine . Under system click on engine then under subsystem click on fuel controls . Click the search button then the blue link. Scroll down to diagram # 6 . Coil circuits . Pink with black trace - B+ voltage , black is ground , brown is signal ground in the PCM - computer . orange with white trace is coil trigger signal from the PCM . Diagram #9 is fuel injector electrical circuits . Test power and grounds . You probably have a bad coil or injector ,wiring issue , or a bad driver inside the PCM . If the PCM needs to be replaced it will need programming , dealer only .

    How to test computer transistor driver without scan tool

    Aug 30, 2017 | 2007 Pontiac G5 Gt Coupe

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    Outback Limited began to sputter a little. I noticed it between 2,000-3,000 rpms and when going uphill. When accelerating it bucked. The Check Engine Light then came on and started blinking but turned off...

    As long as the oil level is still good then, no, the oil can never affect and engine this way. The flashing check engine light means you have an active misfire. Which is most commonly caused by over due spark plugs or a shorted plug, old or bad plug wires, a bad ignition coil, a bad injector. If you pull the plug wires off of the coil and it still has that shiny gold/brass color then the coil is most likely ok, but if it has a bit of light greenish power on those same surfaces then you need a new coil. Also, if you do have the 2.5L single overhead cam engine, then make sure you know if your timing belt was done at 105,000 miles. Because if the timing is off due to an old belt, then that might be causing it as well. If you suspect a bad injector, then I would run an injector flush on it or just some fuel injector cleaner additive through your fuel tank and hopefully it will clean out the injectors.
    I hope this info helps!~subyguru~

    Aug 07, 2011 | 2000 Subaru Outback

    1 Answer

    Engine hesatation. engine stalls. engine idles very ruffly. engine has no pick up.

    The 4.0 V6 can have injector problems and not be running on all cyclinders. You can pull one plug wire or injector connector one at a time witht hte engine running and see which cyclinders aren't running. The 4 cyclinder has two coils and one of them can stop working and it'll still run but lose alot of power pulling one plug wire off the coil pack and seeing the spark with it running they shoul all spark so if you find one the does'nt even though other wires are firing in the coil pack you have to repalace the whole thing to get it to work right. It this information does'nt help you or you check and find more troble add a comment and i'll help you somemore. I really need to know what engine you have and what country your in as these cars are built a litttle differently depending on the country they were built for.

    Apr 19, 2011 | 1998 Ford Ranger SuperCab

    1 Answer

    Car turns over but will not start new plugs new starter new coil packes new fuel pump new crank sensor new cam sensor any idels

    Well, it sounds like you have spent lots of money on parts, if nothing else!

    Before we get started, please review this article: What Else Could Be Wrong?

    First, keep in mind that "NEW" and "GOOD" are not the same. If they were, we would have no use for the word "WARRANTY". One or more of your "new" parts could be causing the problem. so please follow these instructions and disregard what is "New" and what is not...our goal here is to find out what is NOT WORKING. I have seen a lot of misdiagnosis because of getting these confused.

    You first need to isolate the system. You are missing FUEL or SPARK or COMPRESSION. To get your engine to start, you must find out which of these is missing. You can check for spark by pulling one of the plug wires off of each coil and putting a screwdriver up into the boot and hold it about 1/2 inch from a metal part of the engine while someone cranks the engine over for you. You should get a bright blue spark. When I say 1 wire from each coil, it goes like this: (I am assuming you have the 2.2L didn't say) Cylinders 1 and 4 are on 1 coil and cylinders 2 and 3 are on the other. So you need to check spark on 1 and 2 or on 3 and 4 -or all 4 if you want a really good test, but you must leave the second cylinder for each coil connected while you test the other. (ie. Don't have #1 and #4 disconnected at the same time) If there is no spark, then we need to diagnose your ignition system.

    If you have good spark, then check for fuel. The only way to do this correctly is to get a fuel pressure gauge and connect it to the service port on the fuel rail. It should go to about 50 PSI and then drop off to the specification of 41 to 47 PSI after the fuel pump times out. If there is no fuel pressure or the fuel pressure is less than this, then we need to diagnose your FUEL DELIVERY system.

    If the fuel pressure is OK, then you need to check for injector pulse. This is controled by the FUEL INJECTION system. This can be done with a regular test light and a couple paper clips. Disconnect 1 of the fuel injector connectors. All of the injectors have a GREY wire going to them. This is the injector POWER circuit. If you connect the test light between the negative battery post and the grey wire, the light should light up when the ignition switch is turned to the ON position. If it does not, then we need to repair the injector power circuit. If the power circuit is OK, then connect the test light to the grey wire using the paper clip and connect the other end of the test light to the other wire at the injector connector. (Wire color varies depending on which injector you are working with.) The other wire at the injector is the injector CONTROL circuit. The PCM grounds this wire to fire the injector. When you have the test light hooked up, have someone crank the engine over. The test light should "Blink" on and off. (This blinking on and off is what is called the injector pulse) If the power circuit is good and the test light does not blink when it is connected between the power circuit and the control circuit, you need to find out what is wrong with your injector will require a computer scanner that can read the data stream to diagnos. At least by this time you will know if the fuel injection system system is either causing your problem or it is not.

    If everything is OK up to this point, (You have good spark and you have good fuel pressure and you have injector pulse) The only thing left is really bad spark plugs or cylinder compression problems. Pull all of the spark plugs out and check them real good. If the electrodes are badly worn you will have to replace them. If you are not sure, you may want to replace them anyway. Use a compression gauge to check the compression on each cylinder. You should have a minimum of 100 PSI on each cylinder. The highest cylinder should be within 20 PSI of the lowest cylinder.

    By the time you have gotten to this point, you will have found what is missing. You may have found the actual cause or you may need to do further diagnosis, but you will at least know which system is causing the problem so you know which way to take your diagnosis.

    Apr 14, 2011 | 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier

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