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1993 Chevy 3/4 ton manual transmission slave cylinder not releasing clutch

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Trybleeding cylinder if that don't work pressure plate or throw out bering

Posted on Apr 17, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: clutch cylinder inside car is it broke

you have to bleed the air out of it. If there is not fluid leaking from the master cylinder on the firewall.it can leak on the inside of car or the out side if the master cylinder is bad.first make sure the reservoir stays full then open the bleeder on slave cylinder. this is called gravity bleeding. once fluid comes out, tighten bleeder, pump pedal one time loosen bleeder while holding clutch pedal down and then tighten. do this repeatedly until no air comes out. you can pump pedal several times,then hold and bleed however you like but I have better luck with individual pumps. just make sure that the lines hooked to slave cylinder are tight and there are no air leaks. and that the line does not go below the slave cylinder because sometimes air gets trapped in the lowest part of system.

Posted on Jan 12, 2009

  • 383 Answers

SOURCE: clutch slave cylinder

Yes, it is located on the passenger's side of the car at the front lower side of the transmission.
You will need the following tools: 12mm and 14mm socket. The slave cylinder could be bolted to the bell housing using either size bolt head.
A 14mm and 17mm open end wrench. The hose to the slave cylinder could be found with either size.
a 10mm combination wrench for the bleeder screw. A small set of vice grip pliers.
Removal and installation instructions for the slave cylinder:
1.Take the small set of vice grip pliers and adjust them to where they just barely close down on the slave cylinder hose. Just enough to pinch off the flow of fluid but not damage the hose.
2. Using the 14mm or 17mm open ended wrench, break the hose loose from the slave cylinder, turning it in a counter clockwise direction. Make sure you have the wrench squarely on the fitting to avoid rounding it off.
3. using either the 12 or 14mm socket, remove the two bolts which hold the slave cylinder to the bell housing.
4. At this point with the slave cylinder lose, have the replacement part near by, make sure you have the copper crush ring with it.
5. Holding the hose, rotate the slave cylinder counter clockwise, spinning it off the hose.
The replacement part should have a small metal rod and rubber cover which retains it to the slave cylinder. Make sure to remove the old copper crush ring and put the new one on the end of the hose. If the part did not come with one, reuse the old one. Spin the new part on the hose and place it back on the bell housing, making sure that the rod fits into the steel linkage which projects out from inside the transmission. There is a shallow hole which the rod should fit in. Holding the part in place, don't try to tighten the hose yet, screw both bolts in by hand and tighten them. Make sure you have them both in before you go tightening anything.
6. Tighten the hose, a good snug pull is all that is needed. you don't have to crank down on the line.
Now you can remove the pliers.
7. At this point you will need the assistance of another person. Have them sit in the car, you top off the clutch master cylinder (the one which has just one resevoir) with DOT 3 brake fluid. See if you can find a small container to catch the fluid in, or just use an oil drain pan. With you stationed under the car with the 10mm wrench on the bleeder screw ready to open it up in a counter clockwise direction, have your friend ready to pump the clutch pedal.
READY?
HAVE THEM PUMP THE PEDAL AND TELL THEM TO "HOLD IT" They should keep the pedal on the floor while you open the bleeder screw up.
Some fluid and air may or may not come out the first time you open the bleeder. Close it and tell them to pump the pedal again. They need to pump the pedal at least 5 times and them tell them to "Hold It" again, holding it to the floor. Don't open the bleeder until they have the pedal to the floor.
Open the bleeder and then close it. Repeat the procedure until you see just fluid and no air coming out.. After the first three times you bleed it, check the clutch master fluid level again. Avoid running the reservoir empty other wise you will be bleeding the cluch for quite a while.
Brake fluid will attack paint so if you spill any on the paint, pour water on it and it will neutralize it. DO NOT GET WATER IN YOUR BRAKE FLUID!!!!
If everything goes well, by the fourth or fifth time you have had them pumped the pedal, you will notice the slave cylinder is pushing the release arm and the person in the car should be feeling a normal clutch pedal along with the "pedal free play" being roughly 1/2 " from the top.
I hope I not only answered your question, but have supplied you all the necessary information should you be up to the task of changing it.

Posted on Apr 23, 2009

  • 101 Answers

SOURCE: How do I bleed the clutch slave cylinder on my 2005 VW Jetta 2.5L

the clutch and brake resevoir are all in one.

Posted on Aug 06, 2009

wilsodfarm
  • 986 Answers

SOURCE: hydraulic clutch 1995 chevy 1500 truck

I know you dont want to hear this but it sounds like the clutch plate is in backwards.

Posted on Oct 19, 2009

  • 70 Answers

SOURCE: no clutch pedal been bleeding it for 3 days

these are notorius for clutch bleeding problems, there is no good answer other than to keep pumping that pedal, eventually it will bleed out

Posted on Dec 06, 2009

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1 Answer

I have a 1987 chevy Cheyenne 1 ton dually w/standard transmission clutch quit working not sure if it be slave cylinder or something else?


Does the pedal go to the floor?? If so it is the master and the slave, they are replace as one unit of repair. If the pedal is very stiff but doesn't go to the floor you have a failed clutch.

Jun 01, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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How do you bleed a slave cylinder when there is no clutch? Rebuilt all components. Found a leak in hydraulic system of clutch release cylinder. No pedal at all. What do I do?


how did you find a leak in the clutch if there is none should have went to a mechanic in the first place sounds like .

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WILL NOT SHIFT WHEN MOTER RUNING


I'm guessing you mean in a manual transmission. You have a clutch failure either in the clutch itself or in the master/slave cylinder. Take a look where the slave cylinder goes into the transmission and have someone push and release the clutch. You'll be looking for the slave cylinder to move about one inch in each direction when the clutch is pushed and released. If it does, the master/slave cylinder are good and you likely have a broken clutch finger or failed pilot bearing.

Feb 28, 2011 | 1994 Chevrolet S-10

1 Answer

How do you no if slavecylinder is any good


A clutch slave cylinder is a device used in the hydraulic clutch system, this item is mounted in the transmission, either on the outside, or in the inside.
If it is mounted on the outside, it is usually attached to the manual transmission by two bolts, the clutch slave cylinder has a rod that extends out every time hydraulic pressure is applied to it by the clutch master cylinder ( you operate this part every time you push on the clutch pedal). The rod that extends out makes contact with the clutch fork, in this design the clutch fork is the one who activates the clutch pressure plate.

In an internal clutch slave cylinder design, the clutch slave cylinder and clutch release bearing are one unit, this unit slides in the input shaft of the manual transmission and is held by two or three bolts that attach the unit to the front of the transmission ( inside the bellhousing). By being a single unit, the need of a clutch fork is eliminated.

What are the symptoms of a bad clutch slave cylinder?
Usually when you have a bad clutch slave cylinder you know it right away, because since it is a hydraulic part, once a seal inside the slave cylinder gets bad, it will start leaking fluid, at the same time, because the seal is not sealing properly, it will allow air inside the system, causing your clutch pedal to feel soft and spongy.
When a clutch pedal feels that way, it is an indication of air in the system, and when this happens, it makes it hard to operate the clutch properly because it engages even with your foot almost all the way to the floor, at times you may not even be able to place your car or truck in gear due to this problem.

NOTE: A bad clutch master cylinder will have similar symptoms, make sure that you look closely at each one of these items to determine which one is the problem ( the one malfunctioning is the one leaking fluid ).

I hope this helps!

Oct 06, 2010 | 1993 Ford F150 SuperCab

2 Answers

Having problems with the clutch in my 1998 Ford Ranger. There is no freeplay, and it is very difficult to shift. Do I need to adjust the clutch? If so, how do I adjust it?


The clutch is not adjustable,it is a fluid clutch.It has to be a leak,or the slave cylinder,and,or, the master cylinder are bad,It does not have to be leaking to be bad,but it is one of the two.Rate please,thank you.

Jul 12, 2010 | 1998 Ford Ranger SuperCab

2 Answers

1993 F350 dually manual wont move out of neutral


Check the fluid level in the reservoir for the slave cylinder, or look underneath to find a leak. If the reservoir is empty then you need to replace the clutch slave cylinder. A quick fix is also try to bleed the clutch slave like you would bleed brakes, open the bleeeder push the pedal down and hold it until the bleeder is closed, repeat until solid fluid comes out...will take 2 people.

Mar 17, 2010 | 1993 Ford F350

2 Answers

Clutch fluid leaking inside of trans housing on a 98 s10


do you mean a manual model ?? is the slave cylinder inside the bell housing ??if so renew it

Dec 27, 2009 | 1998 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

2 Answers

I need to replace my 1993 ford escort GT's slave cylinder


just unbolt it and undo the pipe then refit the new one the sme way in reverse order

Aug 11, 2009 | 1993 Ford Escort 4 Door

1 Answer

HYDRALIC CLUTCH BLEEDING 1993 CHEVY TRK 2500 ,AFTER REPLACING THE LINE


raise and support vechicle safely.remove slave cylinder.hold slave cylinder at a 45 degree angle.with bleeder screw at it highest point.have a helper fully depress hold clutch pedal.then open the bleeder screw. then close the bleeder screw.and have helper release the clutch pedal repeat the procedure until all of the air is evacuated from the system.keep check on on master cylinder keep fluid level full.to keep air from being drawn through the master cylinder.never release a depress clutch pedal with bleeder screw open.or air will enter the system.

Jul 19, 2009 | 1993 Chevrolet C2500

1 Answer

Need to bleed the hydralic clutch system on a 1993 chevy 2500 trk .Replaced old line,now need to bleed the rest of the air out


Should be a bleeder on the slave cylinder. remove the cover on the master and open the slave and let drip until fluid drops sdteady and no sign of air. Close slave and close master after replenishing the fluid. The first time you press on the pedal go slow and release real slow. Then you are off and clutching. Good Luck

Jul 19, 2009 | 1993 Chevrolet C2500

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