Question about Honda Accord

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My 90 Accord when driving it will randomly change gears.

When I accelerate the car seems to have a problem figuring out what gear to be in. It will start to shift and then down shift right away. this will continue to happen when I try to accelerate at high speed.

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1990 ,wow its a classic vehicle and as such is beyond the cost of a repair ,either fit a manual gearbox or scrap the car as you have a problem with the auto box that would require a rebuild

Posted on Mar 17, 2014


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Slow acceleration from stop and when driving (trying to pass)

I have the same car. So far no problems with the Transmision. I had the Trans oil change out every 60 K Sure sounds like you need to get the Transmision checked. Is the fault light on. I have invested ina fault code reader sure is worth it. 
Good luck.  Vilmos

Posted on Mar 03, 2009

  • 1861 Answers

SOURCE: Idle and gear shifting 1987 celica automatic

I would suggest hat you replace the timing belt. The noise that you hear is the belt.

Posted on Mar 05, 2009

  • 38 Answers

SOURCE: 1996 Toyota Camry is slow to change gears when accelerating

Automatic Transmission: Is your speedodometer working fine? Not jumping around one irratically? My inlaws Ford Taurus would act like that, but when their problems were present their speedo wasn't functioning. I changed out their speeo sensor and the problem was solved. I'm not saying that's your problem, but if your computer is relying on your speed sensor to tell it when to shift and the sensor is not working it the computer will go into a safe mode and not allow the transmission to shift (automatic transmission) out of 2nd gear. Otherwise I would lean toward transmission troubles. Could be as simple as changing your transmission fluid and filter. If the filter has never been changed with those kind of miles its long long overdue. All you do is jack up and support the front of your vehicle on jack stands remembering to block the rear wheel with a 2x4 or something large that the vehicle can't roll over and then place a drain pan under the transmission oil pan. If it has a drain plug then simly remove it and drain the transmission fluid into the drain pan. When done draining, replace the plug. If it doesn't have a plug then you will have to loosen all of the bolts holding the Transmission oilpan just a little bit and then work on loosening the bolts to the rear of the oil pan so that it drains from the rear of the pan allowing you to more accurately determine where the fluid is going to come out at. You may have to lightly pry the pan loose from the transmission if it doesn't start to drain once the rear bolts are loosened. You want to only loosen the front bolts about 2 full turns and then gradually as you work your way back loosening them just a little bit more the closer you get back to the rear of the transmision oilpan. The front of the vehicle is already up in the air so the oil should run to the back of transmission oil pan. Finish draining it and then remove all of the bolts and remove the oil pan from the transmission. Look at the new filter so you know what it looks like when you look for the old one to remove. Look to see how it is fastened up into place and remove the bolts / screws holding it in place and then remove the filter and put the new one on. You may have the design where it's held on by pressing it on with your hand because it has a rubber seal attached to the filter. After the filter is in place you need to use a clean rag and clean and dry the mating surface on the transmission where the oil pan touches. If there is a gasket there then you will have to remove and replace it with one from the Filter Kit. This should be done anytime you remove the pan. If it is a rubber style gasket then you will not need any RTV sealant. If it is a paper or cork gasket then you need to purchase a sqeeze tube of RTV sealant. Pay attention to the package details of the RTV because not all are for transmission fluids. If you need to use the sealant then read the directions carefully and then re-install the new seal. Put the Trans Oilpan back into place and if you are using RTV then make sure that when you are tightening down the bolts that hold the pan to the transmission that you do not over tighten. You don't want to sqeeze all of the sealant out from between the mating surfaces. Remove your jackstands and unchalk your rear wheel, then lower your vehicle back down. Under the hood you will need to find where the dipstick is and with a funel, refill the transmission with the recommended transmission fluids that is right for your make and model vehicle. If you are not sure then ask your local parts store.

Manual (Stick Shift) transmission: you may have a bad clutch or worn out throw-out bearing. If you let out on the clutch and the vehicle feels like the clutch is still partially engaged and it takes a lot more gas to get to speed, then it sounds like you've smoked your clutch due to either normal ware and tare or operater driving habbits. I would look into replacing the clutch. Inspect the flywheel for discoloration like bluing or yellowish colored metal that idicates that it has gotten HOT. You'll have to drop your transmission out and then you will need to remove the clutch and fly wheel. Inspect the flywheel for cracks. If you see hairline cracks around the bolt holes or anywher else on the surface then you'll have to replace it. If you do not see any cracks then take it to shop or parts store that have the capabilities and can look it over to make sure it didn't get to hot (to hot means the temper in the metal has been taken out. Temper is the hardness of the metal, so if the temper has been lost, then the flywheel could be brittle and dangerous if re-used. You may be in luck and the flywheel didn't get to hot therefore allowing you to be able to keep it and just have them turn a new surface on it with their lathe. Just like when you have your brake rotors and brake drums turned. Replace the throw-out bearing, pilot bearing, clutch and presure plate. Re-assemble. You should buy one of those cheap (i.e. cost not quality) clutch alignment tools for re-aligning the clutch to make your job much easier.

If you are not comfortable with working on your own vehicle or don't have the tools then take it to someone who can. Recommend taking it to the professionals. These suggestions may or may not fit your specific problem(s), but without knowing more information these are merely suggestions.

Posted on Mar 14, 2009

  • 4669 Answers

SOURCE: 1997 Suburban 4x4 5.7L Transmission whines until it shifts

You rear planetary set is worn from a restricted cooler.

Posted on May 06, 2009

  • 17 Answers

SOURCE: won't go into gear to drive. may be transmission?

If the clutch has never been changed most likely it is that. The way you can check it is by removing the transmission and looking at the clutch disc. It could be transmission syncros but I am willing to bet you just need a new clutch.

Posted on May 24, 2009

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