Question about 1999 Ford F150 Regular Cab
The wiring harness which leads to the crankshaft sensor can rub on the A/C hose on the passenger side. When you restart the engine, it will shake and Torque the engine to the Drivers side until the RPM stabilizes. This will break contact with the bare wire until the wire settles back into position, ready to repeat the cycle. I imagine road bumps can have the same wire flopping around to cause intermittent failures again.
Try putting some electrical tape on the feed wire and then plastic tie the wire to give you clearance.
Posted on Mar 17, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2002 7.3 F350 WONT START
starter might be going bad that can cause it to drain the batterys
did you check to see if it is getting fuel if it has duel tanks the valve to switch tanks can go out and that can stick in a position were it doesnt allow any fuel to pass it could be the pump too
Posted on Aug 27, 2008
when you get a code the PCM will keep that code and till it get easased. you need a scaner or disconect your battery for 1h. this should clear your codes. when the battery is disconected don't sit in your can. the air bags may deploy if you hit the steering collem or a sensor to hard. just let it sit. reatach your battery then try to start your truck. if the codes are still pressent you make need let the car sit for longer or bit the big one and get the shop to do it.
Posted on May 30, 2009
you probably have a vacuum leak and by the sound of it, it idles rough with the brake pedal depressed its your brake booster
Posted on Sep 08, 2009
yes the egr could be clogged or loosing vaccum check the valve by taking it out or looking to see if the pickup tube on the valve is bad or has a pin hole in it.
Posted on Jul 01, 2010
Hello, there are several things as likely to cause this problem, either spark or fuel.
The glowplugs are needed to make a Cold engine start. You can take a testlight to the glowplug wire of several cylinders and it should light when the engine is put to the Run position. The glowplugs get their power from a Coldstart Timer and it may have an additional relay.
The Coldstart Timer is the part which clicks and makes the lights dim when it is cycling. It also controls the dash indicator and makes the dash light work when the glowplugs are ready. The timer changes the amount of time it cycles according to outside and engine temperature. If you have noticed the "Ready" light vary its timing, the timer is working.
Say you have no spark at the glowplug wire, work backwards to the Coldstart timer and see if it is getting power. Power in, none out, bad timer. No power in, work backwards for a Relay or fuse.
Now if you have power at the glowplug, remove several and test them with Battery jumper cables. Put the NEG on the base and touch the POS to the stem. You can melt them if you overdo it. The longer it takes for the glowplug to glow, the worse it is. Once you find a good glower all tests are relative to the good one.
Fuel problem. If the glowplugs test out, check the fuel. Long start times can mean the fuel drained back to the tank and has to be pulled all the way up front. You can unscrew your fuel filter and see if it is topped off or empty. Then you need to test the lines from the fuel filter back.
It is also possible an internal Solenoid in the Injector pump is sticking. A light tap before starting can indicate this problem if it starts better after tapping the pump.
Thats about it. I hope you find my Solution useful.
Posted on Dec 02, 2010
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