Question about 2000 Ford Expedition

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Burning smell brakes

Replaced rear brake line and pads but i still feel like the rear brake are sticking and burning what else can it be.

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  • Ford Master
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Most people do not remove the rear rotors and inspect the Emergency Brake shoes. These often peel off the metal backing on the shoe and jam inside the interior Drum of the rotor. Some people will hear a rusty grinding noise after pulling away from a stop.

These brakes have the old "star-wheel" adjusters and may need to be adjusted more loosely to remove the rotor. Its a bad system in my opinion; the drum always rusts and corrodes and the Ebrake shoes are banana peel thin. With corrosion, the drum acts like a grinder and chews up the brake shoes. Some other configurations use a mechanical link on the caliper to make the service brakes act in an Emergency. It will override a hydraulic failure, but you still need good pads on the caliper.

Posted on Mar 17, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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eitan
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SOURCE: burning smell

The sulphur smell is the result of the emmisions control system. I have an 06 Expedition with the exact same engine and emmisions system as yours. When the engine is cold, you don't smell that sulphur smell, but as soon as the engine gets to operating temperature, the exhaust gasses smell sulphury. Nothing wrong with your ride - they all do that. The dealership sometimes spray the underbody with some type of rubber to protect the vehicle against rust. This rubber stuff sometimes get sprayd on the exhaust as well and then you will smell "burning tires" after driving the vehicle. This will go away after a few thousend miles though.

Posted on May 15, 2008

SOURCE: brake pads

Its easier than you think. To open the caliper you simply apply pressure and turn the piston, like screwing it in. You must push it in at the same time or it doesn't work.

Posted on Sep 06, 2008

stormbrewin
  • 426 Answers

SOURCE: Ford Expedition rear brake brake replacement

The rear pads are usualy harder than the front and the harder the pads the more wear there is on the rotors Unless the rotors were worn to the point of replacement they could have had them skimmed.Being soft doesnt make much sense.Have an 03 ba falcon and only replaced our rotors after doing 125000ks The expidition is a similar beast that used the same brake system.Get the rotors skimmed and go to a slightly softer pad to extend rotor life

Posted on Oct 26, 2008

  • 202 Answers

SOURCE: how to replace rear brake pads

Jack up car, remove wheel. There are two bolts that hold the caliper on. Remove these. Caliper comes off, take old pads out. There is a special tool to compress the piston back into the caliper (do not use a C Clamp on the rears.) Put new pads back on, re-install the caliper, and put the wheel back on. Pump the brake pedal until it is firm. Done.

Posted on May 27, 2009

  • 677 Answers

SOURCE: sticking rear brake caliper 2002 mondeo 1.8

Is the piston sticking in the caliper or is the caliper sticking on the outside slides preventing it from moving to the disc?

Posted on Aug 31, 2009

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2 Answers

2002 Ford Excursion 7.3 4x4 rear brakes getting smoking hot. Noticed it on driver side first. Assumed the rotor was sticking, replaced it and the hose. Relaxed pads and found the pads on passenger side...


There are a number of issues that can cause overheating disc brakes. Disc brakes, when released, separate from the disc by the action of the rotor moving between them (since no rotor is perfectly true, there is a small about of wobble and it pushes the pads away from the rotor surface). Things that can cause this to go wrong are:

  1. Caliper pistons that have rust rings that cause sticking. This most often will happen right after or shortly after replacing old, work out pads with new ones. Because the caliper piston was extended out farther with the worn pads, its surface may get rusty. This rust can cause sticking when the piston is pushed back into the bore with the new, thicker pads.
  2. Caliper slide bolts will rust and get sticky, not allowing the caliper to release properly and re-center itself on the rotor. What you often see here is that one pad (inner or outer) is totally worn out and the other seems normal.
  3. Rusty brake lines/caliper internals can cause restrictions in the flow of brake fluid and hold pressure after the brake pedal is released.
It is highly recommended that whenever you change your brake pads, you replace the caliper slide bolts use a new brake hardware kit when reinstalling. The additional cost is almost always saved in longer brake pad life, and fewer complications.

Mar 19, 2015 | 2002 Ford Excursion

1 Answer

Mazda5 rear right brake gets hot, sometimes smells burning.


Try simple/free things first: put car on jack stands,turn wheels to see if you hear pads/shoes dragging after brake pedal on/off,pads should free-float after brake pedal release and if not releasing (by the way,was any brake fluid spilled accidentally on the pads??),more than likely bad caliper;sure the pads are correct ones (thickness) for your car rotors/calipers???. Hope this helps. Alberto

Feb 10, 2014 | Mazda 5 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My svt's rear brakes never fully releases? You can


Try removing the drums and checking the mechanism. It could be that dust from the brakelinings is preventing free operation of the brake pads.
Clean out the drums and if the brake pads appear to be stuck a light thump with a hide mallet should release the sticking.

Apr 27, 2012 | 1998 Ford Contour

2 Answers

Just changed rear pads and rotors on my 2000 chev blazer..after test driving rear brakes were hot and smoking...brake pads seem to be sticking..are the calipers shot or do I need hoses or both?


  • Well when you looked at the brake pads after your drive were the pads stuck to the rotor?
  • First thing to do is double check your pad and rotor installation.
  • Also check to make sure the right parts were installed.
  • When you pushed back the pistons on your calipers did they flow back nice and smooth? Did they wedge in and get stuck? This would make the pads drag.
  • If you used grease did you get some on the pad by accident? If this is the case it will burn off.

  • How is the car stopping for you? Properly? Do you hear any grinding while driving slow? While driving fast? Over heating rotors will turn a bluish stain. That is when it is really time to be worried.
  • If your brakes are not dragging then give some time for the pads to ware in.
  • If the piston is stuck forcing the pads against the rotor all the time then you need to replace the calipers.
  • Don't forget to bleed the lines afterword.

Regards, Tony

May 17, 2011 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

2 Answers

Just replaced rear pads now it feels like i have air in the line, the pedal goes about 3/4 of the way down. i used a tool to turn the caliper piston in until it seated then put the pads on. now the abs...


that is how you contract the caliper on the Audi/VW rear brakes. I would check the brake fluid, I would also recheck the back brake lines as it is/was a bear to replace the rear brake pads. Hope this helped Tim

Apr 17, 2011 | 2000 Volkswagen Beetle

1 Answer

Pulling in left rear and brake and rotor used up faster than all others


Possibilities.
1. The Caliper is sticking open, causing the friction which equals the pulling; and the brake pads and rotors to be eaten frequently.
This means:
a. The Caliper is faulty.
b. The Brake Line Hose (if so equipped) going from Brake Line to the Caliper is faulty.
A. To Check which one is faulty:
B. Raise and Support properly the rear of the vehicle.
C. Remove the tires from both sides.
D. Inspect the brake springs and brake pad retainers (if so equipped) Missing or improperly placed springs and/or brake pad retainers (if so equipped) could possibly cause this also.
E. Using a 6-inch (or larger) "C"-clamp, place the top end of the "C"-clamp onto the back of the caliper. Do not place it on the Brake Line/Hose or the Brack Line connection to the Caliper. Place the screw end of the "C"-clamp onto the center portion of the outside Brake Pad, but not touching the Caliper Housing. Begin screwing-in the clamp, this will move the Brake Pad in, and push the Caliper Piston back into the Caliper Bore. If this is difficult to do, then that is your first sign that the Caliper is "sticking open".
If you are not sure how easy or hard this should be: Move to the Right Side of the vehicle and Clamp-in the right rear Caliper to get an idea of how easy/difficult it should feel. Compare the feel.
If the Left Rear Caliper is difficult to reset:
(1) Place a tight fitting Hose over the nipple of Bleeder Screw, located on the back of the Caliper. Do not cover the nut sides.
(2) Loosen the Bleeder Screw until fluid starts coming out.
(3) Reattempt to Clamp-in the brake.
(4) If it is now alot easier to Clamp-in, then it is the Brake Line Hose going from the Brake Line to the Caliper that is most likely faulty.

The Brake Hoses wear out on the inside, causing "gate-like" frayings. The fluid can flow out to the Caliper, but once the Brake Pedal is released these "gates" close, not allowing the fluid to return-out of the caliper. The Caliper maintains pressure on the Rotor causing the pulling of the vehicle and the wear-and-tear of the Rotor and Pads.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have any additional information, problems, or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!




Jan 30, 2010 | 2002 Ford Explorer

3 Answers

Brake pad is sticking.


Work the caliper piston in and out until it moves freely, otherwise buy a new caliper

Jul 22, 2009 | 2002 Honda CR-V

1 Answer

New rear brake pads on drivers side smells like it is burning


If you smell burning - the caliper might not be opening properly.. Break might be sticking..
Jack it up.. The tire should spin freely..
If not - try bleedingthe lines real good..

PS - one should never use cheep pads..

Hope this helps !!
rate me good ;o)

Jul 13, 2009 | Hyundai Excel Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2002 ford f350 deisel brakes pedal feels hard and dosnt stop verry good well driving. Brakes smell like they are burning when I stop. Just replaced front rotors,pads and calipers


You should have a hydraulic brake booster. a common failure item on fords and also would cause your symptom. the burning smell, I would go back and recheck all the brakes. Maybe a problem with the e-brakes, or an issue with the front or rear calipers. Possibly a damaged steel or high pressure brake line. Good luck.

Apr 26, 2009 | 1996 Ford F350 Crew Cab

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