Question about 2002 Daewoo Lanos

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How do you remove the calipers on a Daewoo Espero, the two socket head screws are seized and i am uncertain which direction they should turn

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Take some Penetrating Oil and let it soak. Use your breaker bar and loosen them up. The rule of thumb is Lefty Loosy, Righty Tighty. Good luck

Posted on Jun 14, 2009

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1 Answer

"left front tire locks up"


as in "won't turn"???
you probably have a seized wheel bearing/hub assembly or frozen brake caliper - you can remove the wheel hub/bearing assembly yourself in about an hour with common hand tools (an impact wrench will really speed this up) - you can rent the wheel nut removal socket at most auto parts stores - you will have to have an automotive shop with a bearing press to remove and replace the wheel bearing ($30-$60) - if the caliper is seized - replace the entire assembly (and probably the ruined brake rotors and pads)

Mar 13, 2014 | 2003 Ford Focus

1 Answer

How do i remove the front brake calibers on a 1991 chevy 4x4 k1500


The front brake calipers are held on by two long bolts with female 3/8" Allen heads on them The socket needed will be a 1/2" Drive 3/8" Allen. The bolt heads are at the rear of the caliper so leave the steering unlocked so you can turn the brake rotor in the direction that allows access. It will be esier to remove the caliper if you depress the caliper piston with a large screwdriver before trying to remove it after the bolts are removed. See bolt picture below.

emissionwiz_178.jpg

May 12, 2011 | 1991 Chevrolet K1500

2 Answers

Cant make caliper return so I can replace pads on the rear


The piston has to spin clockwise while keeping light pressure to compress,having the bleeder open at the same time makes it easier.There should be slots or holes in the piston ,you may have to buy a socket to be able to turn the piston.

Mar 07, 2011 | 2005 Ford Freestar

1 Answer

How to change rear brake shoes


Tools

Needle Nose Pliers
Hammer
Phillips Screwdriver
9/16 Socket and ratchet (not a deep socket)
Large C-Clamp
Center Punch

1. Put front of vehicle on jack stands. Brace back wheels
2. Remove front wheel.
3. Using the C-Clamp squeeze the caliper so the piston goes back inside the caliper.
4. Using the 9/16 socket undo the 2 bolts that go through a rubber boot. There's one on the top of the caliper and the other one is the bottom of caliper. The reason I said not to use a deep socket is that the torsion bar link is kinda in the way so you can't fit a deep socket in there.
5. Once the 2 bolts are removed, remove the wire retaining clips. One wraps around the top pin that holds the brake pads together and the other clips onto the top and bottom pin. Remove the one that goes from the top pin to the bottom pin. You will not be able to take the other one out just yet.
6. Using your center punch or screw driver tap both pins out of the caliper. You will at this point be able to remove the other wire retaining clip.
7. At this point the caliper should be loose and you should be able to remove it. If you are just changing the brake pads then you're half way done. Replace old pads with new pads and reassemble in the reverse order.
8. If you are replacing the rotors as well then all you need to do is loosen both Phillips head screws that are holding the rotors to the hub. Be careful with the screws I happened to strip the head on one of these babies and let me tell ya it wasn't easy taking it out. Once the screws are removed the rotor should come right off. Might need a hammer to persuade it a little.

9. Install new rotor and brake pads and you are done.

Feb 04, 2011 | 2001 Kia Rio

1 Answer

My bolts appear to be rusted, i cant get them off


Chipping away at the bolt faces with a screw driver might help. Use '6 face' impact driver sockets only, the 12 corner sockets will round the bolt corners off. Select an open spanner of the correct size and hammer it mildly from the side onto the bolt head. The spanner will chisel the rust off. Spray with WD40 as this helps release the rust. Try each third of the bolt in turn and wire brush it right down to the base. chisel everything off with a small screw driver and light taps with a hammer. Strike the bolt head full on hard with the ball end of a ball pein hammer. Next see if an impact socket next down a size can be hammered on - corrosion can reduce bolt head dimensions; I've experienced many 15mm bolt reduces to a perfect 14mm fit. Use a breaker bar in the socket and make sure the socket is jammed on deeply as it can be. Try tightening the bolt just a degree before trying to release it. If it still resists remove the socket and apply heat to the bolt head with a concentrated blow torch or acetylene flame - the bolt lengthens through thermal expansion and breaks much of the corrosion on the threads. Furthermore, very hot metal has much lower friction than cold metal. If you strip the head you will need to use a grinder to create new parallel faces to put a spanner or self gripping wrench on. Many times the heat generated by this grinding process is enough to allow the spanner to remove the modified bolt easily. If still no joy grind a flat top to the bolt, drill it and fit a bolt extractor into the drill hole. Never accept defeat from a seized bolt, persistence pays off. The worst job I ever did of this type was to try and bleed fluid from rusty brake calipers. The bleed nipple just tore off. I drilled what I could and inserted a bolt extractor and the bolt extractor sheared right off. Hardened steel drills just glanced off the imbedded hardened extractor. I used a Dremel with a chain saw sharpening grinding tool and ground out the extractor's tip. Then, like a dentist doing a filling on tooth, I played the grinding tip around in concentric circles until I could see the rusty outline of the bolt threads of the bleed screw in the caliper. I picked the coil like remnants of the bleed screw from the wall of the caliper and bit by bit cleared the whole thing. " Failure is not an option" go to it!

Sep 26, 2010 | 1993 Ford F250

1 Answer

I need to replace the front brake pads on a 2005 Kia Rio. Is this simular to other cars or should i have an expert do it.


This worked for me.


1.Put front of vehicle on jack stands. Brace back wheels
2. Remove front wheel.
3. Using the C-Clamp squeeze the caliper so the piston goes back inside the caliper.
4. Using the 9/16 socket undo the 2 bolts that go through a rubber boot. There's one on the top of the caliper and the other one is the bottom of the [brake caliper. The reason I said not to use a deep socket is that the torsion bar link is kinda in the way so you can't fit a deep socket in there.
5. Once the 2 bolts are removed, remove the wire retaining clips. One wraps around the top pin that holds the brake pads together and the other clips onto the top and bottom pin. Remove the one that goes from the top pin to the bottom pin. You will not be able to take the other one out just yet.
6. Using your center punch or screw driver tap both pins out of the caliper. You will at this point be able to remove the other wire retaining clip.
7. At this point the caliper should be loose and you should be able to remove it. If you are just changing the brake pads then you're half way done. Replace old pads with new pads and reassemble in the reverse order.
8. If you are replacing the rotors as well then all you need to do is loosen both Phillips head screws that are holding the rotors to the hub. Be careful with the screws I happened to strip the head on one of these babies and let me tell ya it wasn't easy taking it out. Once the screws are removed the rotor should come right off. Might need a hammer to persuade it a little.

9. Install new rotor and brake pads and you are done.

It took me roughly 1 hour to do the brake job.
All in all it's a fairly straight foward brake job.

Sep 17, 2010 | 2005 Kia Rio

1 Answer

How do i remove the disc brake assembly from 1982 chevy van 30


Remove the two allen socket head screws that go in from the other side,inside the caliper,and take a screw driver,a strong one,and wedge it between the inner brake pad,and the rotor,and pry it until there is a 1/4 air gap between the brake pad and the rotor,then use a pry bar,and finish prying the brake pad all the way back far as it will go,so the caliper piston is all the way back.Remove the brake master cylinder top before doing this.Now ,if you need to remove the caliper complety ,from the vehicle,then brake the brake line hose loose with a line wrench,and remove it from the caliper.

Jun 13, 2010 | 1987 Chevrolet V30

1 Answer

Very loud noice in brakes


its possible that one of the caliper piston has seized.
to fix this remove the wheel and take out the pads and try and force the piston back(it takes some elbow grease), then bleed the brake that has seized if this does not work replace the caliper (breakers yard??)

Apr 29, 2009 | 2000 Daewoo Leganza

1 Answer

Hi ive got a daewoo espero the cam belt has come off ive got a new one to put on but need the too time marking s to put the cam belt in right please can you help the model i have a put down isnt my car its...


Required tools: 13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm allen head sockets 19mm socket prybar needle nose pliers If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pullys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS. Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pully ( the 4 allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pully) on the camshaft pullys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pully with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pully with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would reccomend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pullys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhause Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pully, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal. To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponsing line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple. In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long. One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it

Nov 25, 2008 | Daewoo Leganza Cars & Trucks

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