Question about 2003 Chevrolet Impala
I was driving down the road and my charge light came. I kept driving then my air conditioner started blowing out warm air and all of my warning lights came on then my car decreased in speed. I pulled over to a gas pump and put the car in park and turned the switch off. Then I turned the switch back on and everything came on but my car wouldn't crank. The mechanic said it was my alternator. I bought a new one, he put it on. The car work good but those two lights will not go off.
Try disconnecting the negative cable on the battery. Wait at least 5 minutes and recconnect it. I can't say this will work. But on some of the cars I've worked on, the electronic modules (lamp drivers) that control these lights need to power down for a few minutes to reset. If the mechanic that installed the alternator didn't disconnect the battery this may be the fix. Maybe, not sure, but worth a try.
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
When certain systems (anti-lock brakes, traction control or air bag) detect a problem (like low system voltage due to a bad alternator) the computer sets a fault code and turns on the light. The light often will not go out until the fault code is cleared from the computer's memory.
Try disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery for 1 minute and then re-installing it. This will erase the computer's memory and erase the fault codes set when the alternator failed. If the two lights come back on, that means that there is a problem in the systems (they are inter-connected). Check all the fuses to make sure that a fuse which might supply power to these two systems did not blow out when the alternator failed. Replace any bad fuses. If the lights still stay on, you will need to take it to a mechanic for diagnosis and repair.
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
one of your wheel sensors are bad. if you go to napa they will let you use a code reader for free and that will tell you which wheel it is and you can replace that sensor. they are kinda expensive @ around 100 bucks a piece.
Posted on Mar 30, 2009
The bearings on the wheels has to be installed one way only, the rotor ring is built into the bearing and if installed the wrong way round the sensor cant pick up the wheel speed causing the ligt to be switched on in the cluster. The diagnostic equipment should pick this up as a fault once the car has been driven, it will see the sensor when you do the diagnostic if the car is standing still but once the car is moving and no signal is send from that wheel it would register a fault into the memory of the PCM that you would be able to retrieve later.
There is a way for you to test the sensor yourself by using a multimeter set on volts, you jack the vehicle up at that wheel, install a vehicle stand to support the vehicle to be safe, disconect the wheel speed sensor and probe the two wires into the sensor, spin the wheel by hand and a small amount of current will be produced meaning the the sensor is working and the wheel bearing is installed the correct way, you can also do a continuaty test on the sensor by switching the multimeter onto ohms, but be very carefull, if this sensor has three wires you cant do the continuaty test because of the integrated circuit in the sensor, the three wire sensors opperate on a voltage from 5Volt and it would be destroyed by the multimeter opperating on 9Volt.
If the continuaty test passes and the bearing is installed the correct way, the most comon fault would be a break in the wiring leading to the PCM
Hope this will be helpfull.
Posted on May 04, 2009
YOU NEED TO HAVE THE LEARNED FEATURES OF THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER RESET..NEEDS TO BE DONE WITH A SCANTOOL..IT IS TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN FROM CHRYSLER..RECOMMEND YOUR LOCAL DEALER DO IT
Posted on Aug 31, 2009
hi hope i can help the traction control is controled by signals from the abs system if you lose a sensor imput the abs light will also come it looks like you have a sensor on the blink hope you find this helpful if so please give it a rating thanks pete
Posted on Nov 24, 2009
The problem lies in one of the ABS wheel sensors. Most likely on the drive axle. Because the ABS sensor is only working part of the time. When it stops working it gives a signal telling the system that the wheel is spinning without traction. In doing this the vehicle computer tells the engine to go into the limp mode. If this is the trouble you may be able to confirm it by removing your foot from the accelerator and reapplying. It should regain power for the few fractions of a second it takes for the ABS sensor to retransmit the failure signal.
Posted on Dec 10, 2010
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