Question about 2004 Ford F150

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A/C suddenly blows hot air usually when idleing

Seems to occure at low speed or idle, A/C suddenly disingages. I turn off A/C for a few minutes and back on, and its fine. I thought it might be a high or low pressure switch and let it idle for 1.5 hours one day in my carport and it never messed up. Just does it when it is super inconvieniant to me

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  • Ford Master
  • 4,369 Answers

It could be the a/c clutch is starting to go. They usually run ok for about an hour and then cut off. Sometimes you can shim the clutch so it is tighter, or just replaqce the clutch. Sometimes you have to remove the compressor to replace the clutch.

Posted on Jun 14, 2009

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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geniusguy
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SOURCE: engine stalling at start up and rough idle intermittently

Hi

Try take your car to a local mechanic...It seems your car may need a servicing and a proper check up...There are a series of valves that will need tuning...It is best done by a qualified mechanic.

Posted on Oct 16, 2008

ourhowse
  • 2007 Answers

SOURCE: My 1992 GMC Yukon sputters when idle. Usually

Probably a faulty idle air control valve. If you have a good auto wrecker near you, that's probably the best place to get one... in case it's something else. You can't return electrical parts, so you don't want to spend a bunch of money. You can check it by unplugging the connector, and, using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance across terminals A and B, then terminals C and D. Each resistance check should indicate 40 to 80 ohms. If not, replace the IAC valve.

Posted on Aug 13, 2009

  • 553 Answers

SOURCE: what should the oil pressure gauge usually read

Oil pressure can vary, on most chevy vehicles it should be around 30 lbs. If your oil pressure drops more than about 20% at idle when your engine warms up, you probably have to much bearing clearance. If it drops to zero or near zero after your engine warms up, you mosl likely need to rebuild your engine or at least repair or replace your crankshaft and crankshaft bearings.

Posted on Jun 07, 2010

  • 6982 Answers

SOURCE: It's using twice as much gas as usual. Running

Don't replace the iac before you test everything. the TPS, MAP and O2 sensors as well as the coolant and manifold temp sensors have far more to do with your problem than does the IAC which pretty much reacts to what the computer tells it to do, based upon info from those sensors.

Posted on Jun 16, 2010

  • 844 Answers

SOURCE: sqeaking from the accessory belt drive. could be a

common cause is the belt gets worn and stretched, yes the tensioner is suppose to keep its tension but also the tensioner gets weak and all it takes is a couple slips of the belt to harden and you will get a squeal. Spray WD 40 on tensioner, idler pulleys, alternator behind pulley, not on belt or where belt rides on pulleys but at all bearing locations. Did squeal stop? If not replace belt. Usually a chevy water pump will leak, or grind not sqeak unless there is rusty non lubricated so called coolant in it which 1974 maybe but 2007 na im sure you didn't neglect this baby. You can also inspect the belt carefully, possibly buy a can of belt dressing and spray belt but do make sure you use a ratchet and check your belt tensioner for smooth non sticky tension pressure.

Posted on Jan 10, 2011

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