No injector pulse

This '99 Tercel is not sold in the U.S., so maybe can't help. car models listed are Avalon, Camry, Celica, and
Corolla.
Nearest to a Tercel would be the Corolla, so here is the wire colors for that: the power wire for all injectors is the same spliced wire- it is a black/white wire. The ground wires for each injector (the wires that go into the ecu for internal grounding which causes the injector to pulse), are as follows: #1 injector is a yellow wire, #2 injector is a white wire, #3 injector is a B-R wire- don't know if that means a brown and red stripe wire, or a black with red stripe.
#4 injector is listed as a B wire- just the single color, I think that would be black, not brown. And so I think #3 would be Black with a red stripe.

there you go, maybe it will help you, maybe not, but you get the picture: all the power wires are the same color, the ground wires will be the different color wires.-

Cud b voltage issue. Unplug them and clean contacts. Also u cud unplug computr and clean pins . Older cars have corrosion

Is that static pressure with key on, engine off? Or engine running pressure? Both should be near 60, usually key on, engine off pressure will be about 3 or 4 psi higher.
If it runs good after starting, the injector pulse must be good. No reason why starting and running pulse should be different. Only difference is when running, fuel pump power is kept on by the oil pressure switch, whereas in starting, the fuel pump relay keeps the pump on. Very unusual, let us know. Measure voltage at one of the injector's power wire with key on. It should be battery voltage or very close.

First check that you have power to the injectors with key in on. The injector fuse should be in the fuse/relay box under the hood. The red wire and the white wire are the power wires for each injector. The dark blue and dark green wires are the ground wires, respectively. The grounds both go into the ECM at the longer connector, where the computer grounds the wire internally to cause pulse.

If no power on either the red or white wire, check the fuse, and check it has power to it in run, or on. If both have power, you will probably need to trace the ground wires for a break. Or check continuity of the ground wires with an ohmmeter (a multi-meter), from injector connector to the pins at the ECM. If continuity is good, and no corrosion or problem with wire connectors, it could be a failed ECM.

Check the ECM 15 amp fuse, position or fuse #3 in the fuse block. This fuse supplies power both to the injector and to the ignition coil. The red wire to the injector is the power wire, and it should be hot in run or on. If no power on the red wire with key on, check that the coil has power to it on the pink and black wire. If the coil has power, but none to the injector, the red wire is open between fuse #3 and the injector.

If the red wire has power, but the injector doesn't pulse, check the blue ground wire from injector to the ECM. The ground wire may be broken. When the computer internally grounds the injector circuit for a split second, that is what causes the pulse. The injector has constant voltage to it on the red wire when the key is on.

To check the ground wire for continuity, use a voltmeter set to ohms, one lead on the blue wire terminal at the injector, and the other lead on the blue wire pin at the ECM connector that has that blue wire. Take the connector off at the ecm. (take the negative battery terminal off first.) You may have to use a jumper wire from the injector terminal towards the passenger side, so the ohmmeter leads can reach between the ecm connector under the glove box, and to the injector. If the ohmmeter shows low ohms-low resistance to current flow-then the wire is good and not broken.

Do the injectors have power? The red wire on most is hot, the computer controls the ground.

Check your coil pack. Sounds like one or two need replacing.

Does it have injector pulse to deliver fuel to the cylinders? You can check to see if the injectors are getting power by probing the red wire to the injectors, with the key on it should be battery + voltage, a common cause of this kind of problem is the ignition starter switch on the top lower part of the steering column. You can also buy a small tool that plugs into the injector connector called a "NOID", (about $5) it flashes when the engine is cranked if the injectors are been pulsed to deliver fuel.

On starter, mark the wires before removing. There should be two wires on the starter. One for the ignition which is by itself, one for power and one for the solenoid to attach to. You don't need to disconnect the solenoid wire. Just the ignition wire and the red power wire. The ignition wire just pulls off. But pull carefully so the end don't break. The red power wire has a nut on it to remove.
Then remove the two starter bolts and pull it out.

Dear cindy: Your injectors are served from the fuse block by a 10A fuse. This is a brown and red wire which goes directly to the injectors and is hot all the time. The ECM makes and breaks the ground to pulse the injectors.
Coming off the ECM, are four wires which are numbered as followed. pin #102 (#1 inj) red and black, pin #107 (#2 inj) yellow and black, pin #104 (#3 inj) green and black and pin #09 (#4 inj)blue and black. These all pulse the grounds and are triggered by the ignition pulse. I hope this has shed some light on the subject.
Often you can go to a Barnes and Noble book store and find shop manuals which will give you the diagrams you seek. You don't necessarily need to buy the book if you are seeking a specific answer. Good Luck.