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There is no torque spec for these bolts. They start with an initial torque, and then turn 90 degrees, and then 70 degrees. Also, there are diffferent size bolts that affect the order. Here is a diagram of the head below and the directions:
Tighten
Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a first pass in sequence to 30?N·m (22?lb?ft).
Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a second pass in sequence to 90 degrees using J 45059.
Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a final pass to 70 degrees using J 45059.
Tighten the M8 cylinder head bolts (11-15) to 30?N·m (22?lb?ft). Begin with the center bolt (11) and alternating side-to-side, work outward tightening all of the bolts.
on a 2002 2.4 engine head bolts are 'torqued to distance'.
First, install all the bolts, and, in a sequential fashion, starting at
the innermost, working outward, torque all bolts to 70 N-m/806 kgf-cm/58
foot lbs.
Next, mark the front side of each head bolt with a dot of paint.
Retighten the cylinder head bolts 90 degrees, starting at the inner 2,
and working outward.I dont thin anything has changed on this engine since then.
Tighten cylinder head bolts to 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.). Tighten bolts an additional 70 degrees plus 70 degrees plus 30 degrees using angular torque gauge .
Torque Angle is supposed to be a "more scientific and precise way to gauge the "clamping force" applied to a bolt. This idea appeared about 20 years ago and is now, sadly, becoming universal on newer vehicles. The idea behind Torque Angle is that using the old foot-pounds torque wrench would not give you the kind of *exact* repeatable torque that you get using a breaker bar with a Torque Angle meter attached.
Unfortunately, there is no precise way of converting between Torque Angle and Foot Pounds. The best you can do -- and it will work -- is figure each "point" on the head of a 6-point bolt is equal to 60 degrees of Toque Angle (360 degree circle of the bolt head divided by the 6 points) and do the following:
Do NOT use a torque wrench with this technique -- instead you must use a long breaker bar with the correct size socket attached (for this kind of heavy duty torquing a 1/2 breaker bar and socket would really be best):
Per the instructions you gave in your question, you would mark one of the six points on the bolt head and make a corresponding mark on the surface of what you're working on. Then turn the bolt so that the marked point turns away from the surface mark until the next point on the bolt reaches the surface mark.
You've just turned the bolt as close to 60 degrees as you're going to get without a Torque Angle meter (which I have found be very difficult if not impossible to use correctly in most real world cases anyway). This approximate 60 degree turn you just made is close enough to the first 55 degrees stated in the instructions. Same would be true for the next two measurements. Move the next point on the bolt to line up with the surface mark and finally turn the next point after that to the surface mark. As an engine mechanic of 40 years experience, I feel this end result is close enough because with that kind of a torque requirement you are really going to be cranking that bolt down and a few degrees of angle isn't going to matter by the time you do the last torque.
Using a Torque Angle meter may be just fine if you're working on the factory floor, but for everyone else I personally think Torque Angle is another case of "newer ain't necessarily better".
70-75 foot pounds. Final torque must be reached in 3 equal steps, torque each to 25 foot pounds then 50 foot pounds, then 75 foot pounds. Recheck final torque in sequence.
The 2002 2.4 engine head bolts are 'torqued to distance'.
First, install all the bolts, and, in a sequential fashion, starting at the innermost, working outward, torque all bolts to 70 N-m/806 kgf-cm/58 foot lbs.
Next, mark the front side of each head bolt with a dot of paint. Retighten te cylinder head bolts 90 degrees, starting at the inner 2, and working outward.
Hope this helps, from autozone site. Curt Application:
Cylinder head bolt torque sequence
Note :
Torque sequence:
---------
front | 3 1 6 |
of | |
vehicle | 5 2 4 |
---------
Step 1: Lightly oil cylinder bolt threads & washers
Step 2: Torque to 22 Ft/Lbs
Step 3: Torque to 51 Ft/Lbs
Step 4: Loosen all bolts 180 degrees
Step 5: Loosen all bolts 180 degrees
Step 6: Torque bolts 1 & 2 to 25 Ft/Lbs
Step 7: Torque bolts 3, 4, 5, 6 to 11 Ft/Lbs
Step 8: Turn all bolts an additional 80 to 90 degrees
Step 9: Turn all bolts an additional 80 to 90 degrees
*** CAUTION ***
engine uses Torque To Yield head bolts (TTY) that
permanently stretch during the initial installation.
New head bolts must be used when cylinder head is
replaced or re-installed to obtain proper Torque.
Head Bolt Torque
For your 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (3.4L SFI DOHC):
Foot pounds (Final torque)
Note:
Torque sequence --------- | 6 2 3 7 | | 5 1 4 8 | --------- Step 1: torque in sequence to 33 Ft/Lbs Step 2: turn an additional 90 degrees Recheck final torque in sequence *** CAUTION ***engine uses Torque To Yield head bolts (TTY) thatpermanently stretch during the initial installation.New head bolts must be used when cylinder head isreplaced or re-installed to obtain proper torque.
Foot pounds (Final torque)
Note:
Torque sequence --------- | 8 4 1 5 | | 7 3 2 6 | front --------- of engine | 6 2 3 7 | | 5 1 4 8 | Step 1: torque to 40 Ft/Lbs --------- Step 2: turn an additional 90 degrees Recheck final torque in sequence *** CAUTION ***engine uses Torque To Yield head bolts (TTY) thatpermanently stretch during the initial installation.New head bolts must be used when cylinder head isreplaced or re-installed to obtain proper torque.
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