Cars & Trucks Logo

Related Topics:

jessica Posted on May 19, 2017
Answered by a Fixya Expert

Trustworthy Expert Solutions

At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.

View Our Top Experts

Whats wrong with my car?

I changed the radiator, water pump, oil twice, and the timing-> (something not the belt or chain) I took it and hooked it up to diagnostics at a part store and the only thing it says on the machine is the intake sensor is bad.. I cant figure it out it hasn't jumped timing it runs fine when u drive it no skipping or anything but when its just idling there is a ticking sound and smoke is coming out not sure from where or why. when I first crank the car up it sputters a bit until it warms up then it just ticks.

1 Answer

Jerry Ross

Level 3:

An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

Superstar:

An expert that got 20 achievements.

All-Star:

An expert that got 10 achievements.

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Cars & Trucks Master 1,121 Answers
  • Posted on May 20, 2017
Jerry Ross
Cars & Trucks Master
Level 3:

An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

Superstar:

An expert that got 20 achievements.

All-Star:

An expert that got 10 achievements.

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

Joined: Mar 25, 2015
Answers
1121
Questions
7
Helped
355438
Points
2563

The ticking sound maybe from a lifter or the valve lash on one or more lifters is a little loose. As to the smoke you may have a shed roof seal in the head going bad and letting oil into the valve. This would cause the engine to smoke at start up. Not sure this is going to help but gives you a place to start.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on May 30, 2008

SOURCE: Ticking sound

hi try getting a service done make sure they use genuine toyota oil and filters

cheers
mark

Ad

Anonymous

  • 6 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 19, 2009

SOURCE: Oil light comes on, then engine ticks, then car cuts off

When you got stuck in the snow did it impact hard (quick stop or small drop like a deeper ditch)? If this is the case it could be the sending unit might have been dammaged in some way. I would have the shop take a look at.

Fahr Quad

  • 776 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 26, 2009

SOURCE: '97 Dodge Dakota 5.2l oil pressure problems

On the 318 (5.2 liter) V-8 that was in my 1973 Dodge Dart Sport, I started having oil pressure problems with valve ticking and clunking around the crankshaft around 173,000 miles. Prior to the problem, I had bought a couple cases of Pennzoil on sale. Needless to say, when I finally dropped the pan, the sludge had baked to a ceramic-like texture. I soaked the pick up screen in solvent to disolve the crud, replaced the oil pump, and replaced the main and rod bearings with undersized bearings (.001" undersized). The oil pressure went up to normal, the valve tick went away, and the clunking on the bottom end went away. The engine felt as tight like new, and should have lasted for another 150,000+ miles if the nitwit I sold it to hadn't wrapped it around a light pole. By the way, don't ever use no-name, Pennzoil or Quaker State motor oil. The minimal savings will cost you in the long run.

oscar ulloa

  • 66 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 16, 2009

SOURCE: 2002 pontiac grand prix is over heating

This car requires to bleed the air from the sistem, look for a screw at the top of the outlet housing (the top radiator hose).

Also check if the radiator fan is turning on, it should be no later than past the center on the needle gauge .

Anonymous

  • 2299 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 08, 2010

SOURCE: I have an 2001 mitsubishi

It is a lifter ticking. They are called hydraulic lifters. They have a spring inside them, when the car is running it builds oil pressure. The oil pressure fills the lifter which gives the lifter a cushion so to speak. When a lifter is worn out it will not hold oil pressure as well as it use to. So I would say it is a lifter ticking. Nothing to be real concerned about. I had an old 6 cylinder that all of the lifters ticked in it and it ran forever. Probably still running somewhere! So it is not really a concern. If you want to you could run 10w40 oil in it, which is a little thicker. This may help.

Ad

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

2helpful
2answers

2000 Honda accord, just had timing belt done, two weeks later, there's what looks like antifreeze and oil leaking badly, and smoke. Never had a leak in 19 years. Is it the timing belt job, or what?

Hard to say, Could be a leaking water pump seal or expansion plug . hook up a radiator tester and pump to the pressure on the radiator cap and check the location of the leak.19 years
1helpful
1answer
1helpful
1answer

Loud knocking noise after water pump fitted Peugeot 207 SW

you are have what is known as a dry tappet. last for 5-10 min on startup. now you can leave it or you can change the oil and filter. when changing oil I mean you use oil treatment first to remove the old oil deposits. then change the oil. the only other way is expensive removing the cam's that involve taking of the timing chain and other parts to remove the dry tappet and clean out the vaine. but usaly a good oil change will fix this problem..
0helpful
1answer

Does timing belt gasket have anything to do with the coolant

No, It depends on the car, I am not familiar with the engine in your olds, is it a belt or chain? Usually with a belt, you don't even need a timing cover, it is just a belt protector, a chain is a different story and will ride in oil. If you have a coolant leak up front there, it could be the water pump, or one of the many coolant lines that run back and forth in small pipes and hoses. If you have oil in the radiator or water in the oil, you have a blown head gasket, you can check this with a comp check, any radiator shop will do it and tell you exactly what piston is bad. Head gasket jobs are expensive, we found it cheaper to replace the engine.
0helpful
1answer
6helpful
1answer

Replacing the timing belt on a 1998 Nissan Quest and need to know cam shaft and crank shaft positions.

go here for expert help on Villager & Quest

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

e09cf57.gif

Item Part Number Description 1 — 40 Timing Chain/Belt Teeth 2 6256 Camshaft Sprocket , Front 3 — 43 Timing Chain/Belt Teeth 4 6306 Crankshaft Sprocket 5 6268 Timing Chain/Belt 6 6256 Camshaft Sprocket , Rear
Removal
  1. Drain the cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03 for the procedure.
  1. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301) .
  1. Remove the generator drive belt, water pump and power steering pump drive belt, and the A/C compressor drive belt (if equipped). Refer to Section 03-05 for the removal procedure.
  1. If equipped, remove the three A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley bolts and the A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley.
  1. Remove the upper radiator hose bracket bolt.
  1. Loosen the two upper radiator hose clamps and remove the radiator hose bracket bolt. Remove the upper radiator hose (8260) and the upper radiator hose bracket from the vehicle.
  1. Remove the water bypass hose (8597) from between the thermostat housing and the water hose connection (8592) .
  1. Remove the main wiring harness from the upper engine front cover (6019) .
  1. Remove the eight upper engine front cover bolts and the upper engine front cover .
  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  1. Remove the RH front wheel and tire assembly.
  1. Remove the four RH outer engine and transmission splash shield bolts and two screws and remove the RH outer engine and transmission splash shield (6775) .
  1. Use Strap Wrench 303-D055 (D85L-6000-A) or equivalent to hold the water pump pulley (8509) while removing the four water pump pulley bolts.
  1. Remove the water pump pulley from the water pump (8501) .
  1. Remove the crankshaft pulley (6312) . Refer to the procedure in this section.
  1. Remove the five lower engine front cover bolts and the lower engine front cover .
  2. Ensure that the timing marks between the crankshaft sprocket (6306) and the oil pump housing line up.
  3. NOTE: The directional arrow is necessary to ensure that the timing chain/belt (6268) can be reinstalled in the same direction.
  4. Loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut.
  5. Remove the timing chain/belt .

  6. Installation
    NOTE: Ensure that the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets (6256) and the seal plate are properly aligned. Ensure that the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump housing are still aligned. NOTE: A new timing chain/belt has three white timing marks that indicate the correct timing positions of the camshafts (6250) and the crankshaft (6303) . These marks will help ensure that the engine (6007) is timed properly. When the engine is properly timed each white timing mark on the timing chain/belt will be aligned with the corresponding camshaft and crankshaft timing mark on the sprocket. Because the white timing marks are not evenly spaced you will need to refer to the following illustration for proper timing chain/belt placement. There should be 40 timing belt teeth between the timing marks of the front and rear camshaft sprockets and 43 teeth between the timing mark on the front camshaft sprocket and the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket .

    NOTE: Verify that the camshaft timing marks are aligned with the timing marks on the seal plate, and that the crankshaft sprocket timing mark is aligned with the timing mark on the oil pump (6600) .

    Install the timing chain/belt starting at the crankshaft sprocket and moving around to the camshaft sprocket following a counterclockwise path. Do not allow any slack in the timing chain/belt between the timing sprockets. After all of the timing marks are matched up with the timing chain/belt installed, slip the timing chain/belt onto the timing chain/belt tensioner .





3helpful
1answer

Serpentine belt

5729dde.gif
This is a job for an experienced technician. Probably about a $300 job. Maybe more.

Here is procedure for 1996:

Removal
  1. Drain the cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03 for the procedure.
  1. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301).
  1. Remove the generator drive belt, water pump and power steering pump drive belt, and the A/C compressor drive belt (if equipped). Refer to Section 03-05 for the removal procedure.
  1. If equipped, remove the three A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley bolts and the A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley.
  1. Remove the upper radiator hose bracket bolt.
  1. Loosen the two upper radiator hose clamps and remove the radiator hose bracket bolt. Remove the upper radiator hose (8260) and the upper radiator hose bracket from the vehicle.
  1. Remove the water bypass hose (8597) from between the thermostat housing and the water hose connection (8592).
  1. Remove the main wiring harness from the upper engine front cover (6019).
  1. Remove the eight upper engine front cover bolts and the upper engine front cover.
  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  1. Remove the RH front wheel and tire assembly.
  1. Remove the four RH outer engine and transmission splash shield bolts and two screws and remove the RH outer engine and transmission splash shield (6775).
  1. Use Strap Wrench D85L-6000-A or equivalent to hold the water pump pulley (8509) while removing the four water pump pulley bolts.
  1. Remove the water pump pulley from the water pump (8501).
  1. Remove the crankshaft pulley (6312). Refer to the procedure in this section.
  1. Remove the five lower engine front cover bolts and the lower engine front cover.
  2. Ensure that the timing marks between the crankshaft sprocket (6306) and the oil pump housing line up.
2acab54.gif
18. NOTE: The directional arrow is necessary to ensure that the timing chain/belt (6268) can be reinstalled in the same direction.

If the timing chain/belt is to be reused, mark the direction of rotation on the timing chain/belt.

19. Loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut.

  1. Remove the timing chain/belt.
Installation
NOTE: Ensure that the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets (6256) and the seal plate are properly aligned. Ensure that the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump housing are still aligned.



stv~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Pay special attention to the tooth shape of the timing belt. The current timing belts are not interchangeable with the timing belts from the 1993 model year. The 1993 model year uses a square or trapezoidal tooth timing belt while the current model year uses a rounded tooth design. The design change was made to extend the service life of the timing belt from 60,000 miles for the square or trapezoidal toothed belt to 105,000 miles for the rounded tooth belt. If the proper timing belt is not used, the customer may complain of a "whining" noise coming from the engine compartment. If the camshaft sprocket has a square cut in the valley of the gear tooth, it will require a square or trapezoidal tooth timing belt. If the camshaft sprocket has a rounded cut in the valley of the gear tooth, it will require a rounded tooth timing belt.
NOTE: If a new timing chain/belt is to be installed, make sure that the arrow is pointing away from the engine. If a timing chain/belt is to be reused, make sure that the directional arrow that was marked during disassembly is facing the correct direction.

NOTE: A new timing chain/belt has three white timing marks that indicate the correct timing positions of the camshafts and the crankshaft. These marks will help ensure that the engine (6007) is timed properly. When the engine is properly timed each white timing mark on the timing chain/belt will be aligned with the corresponding camshaft and crankshaft timing mark on the sprocket. Because the white timing marks are not evenly spaced you will need to refer to the following illustration for proper timing chain/belt placement. There should be 40 timing belt teeth between the timing marks of the front and rear camshaft sprockets and 43 teeth between the timing mark on the front camshaft sprocket and the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket.

NOTE: Verify that the camshaft timing marks are aligned with the timing marks on the seal plate, and that the crankshaft sprocket timing mark is aligned with the timing mark on the oil pump (6600).

Install the timing chain/belt starting at the crankshaft sprocket and moving around to the camshaft sprockets following a counterclockwise path. Do not allow any slack in the timing chain/belt between the timing sprockets. After all of the timing marks are matched up with the timing chain/belt installed, slip the timing chain/belt onto the timing chain/belt tensioner.

  1. While holding the timing chain/belt tensioner with an Allen wrench, loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut.
  1. Allow the timing chain/belt tensioner to put pressure on the timing chain/belt.
  1. Use an Allen wrench to turn the timing chain/belt tensioner 70-80 degrees clockwise and tighten the timing chain/belt tensioner nut to 43-58 Nm (32-43 lb-ft).

    1. Rotate the crankshaft (6303) clockwise twice and align the No. 1 piston to Top Dead Center (TDC) on its compression stroke.
    1. Apply 98N (22 lbs) of force on the timing chain/belt between the rear camshaft sprocket and the timing chain/belt tensioner.
    2. NOTE: An assistant may be needed to adjust the timing chain/belt.

      While holding the timing chain/belt tensioner steady with an Allen wrench, loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut. Remove the Allen wrench and adjust the timing chain/belt tensioner as follows:
      1. Install a 0.35mm (0.0138 inch) thick and 12.7mm (0.500 inch) wide feeler gauge as shown.

  1. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to position the feeler gauge between the timing chain/belt tensioner and the timing chain/belt

  1. Tighten the timing chain/belt tensioner nut to 43-58 Nm (32-43 lb-ft).
  1. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to remove the feeler gauge from between the timing chain/belt tensioner and the timing chain/belt.
  1. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise twice and align the No. 1 piston to TDC on its compression stroke.
  1. Apply 98N (22 lbs) of force on the timing chain/belt between the rear and front camshaft sprocket.
    1. Measure the timing chain/belt deflection. Timing chain/belt deflection should be between 13-15mm (0.51-0.59 inch). If timing chain/belt deflection is not within specification, repeat steps 3-11. If the timing chain/belt cannot be adjusted to within specification, the timing chain/belt will have to be replaced.
    1. Position the lower engine front cover and install the five lower engine front cover bolts. Tighten the five lower engine front cover bolts to 3-5 Nm (27-44 lb-in).
    1. Install the outer timing chain/belt guide and the crankshaft pulley. Refer to the procedure in this section.
    1. Position the water pump pulley on the water pump and install the four water pump pulley bolts
    1. Use Strap Wrench D85L-6000-A or equivalent to hold the water pump pulley, and tighten the four water pump pulley bolts to 16-21 Nm (12-15 lb-ft).
    1. Position the RH outer engine and transmission splash shield and install the four RH outer engine and transmission splash shield bolts and two screws.
    1. Install the RH front wheel and tire assembly. Tighten the lug nuts (1012) to 98-118 Nm (72-87 lb-ft).



1helpful
2answers

HOW TO PUT THE TIMING BELT BACK ON AFTER CHANGING THE WATER PUMP

hi did the water pump callapse and cause the car to stop or was it running and you decided to change the the pump and before you took the belt off did you line the timming marks up just let me know and lets see if we can get it going for you yates210456
0helpful
1answer

Removal of waterpump

Drain cooling system. Remove radiator upper cross-member. Remove radiator fan. Remove accessory drive belts.
NOTE: The water pump is driven by the primary timing chain.
Remove the timing chain and all chain guides then remove water pump and gasket. Reverse to install. Since this job requires about 4 special tools and the removal of the timing chain and a high level of technical skill I would not attempt it, if you get the timing chain on wrong you could cause severe damage to the engine.
Not finding what you are looking for?

43 views

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Cars & Trucks Experts

ZJ Limited
ZJ Limited

Level 3 Expert

17989 Answers

john h

Level 3 Expert

29494 Answers

Arnie Burke
Arnie Burke

Level 3 Expert

7339 Answers

Are you a Car and Truck Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...