Adding freon to ac system

I am going to assume you meant AC Compressor as the condenser is basically like a radiator in that it cools the freon.

I would say that your freon is probably too low to kick the compressor on. This could be simple as adding some freon (With Leak stop(just to be sure)) would get it working again. The question is, why did it get low? Could be just age and it needs a little freon but usually means that there is a leak somewhere (Hopefully it is not the condenser leaking). Some leaks are small enough that you just need to add freon every month or so but they eventually get bigger. Look for oil around the AC connections and hoses. Could be an O-ring that has gone bad. Hopefully it is simply low on freon.

Your system may just be low on freon. Most auto parts stores sell 134a freon for about $10 a can. If you visit an Autozone store the parts counter personnel might also show you how to add freon to the VW Beetle, it's not hard once you know where the correct port is located. You simply start your car, connect the freon dispensing hose to the AC port (there are two (2) ports, but the hose connection will only fit onto the smaller of the two (2) ports - the low pressure side). Allow the car to run while the can is discharged into the AC system, generally takes 10-15 minutes. Most dispeners have a freon pressure gauge on the hose portion that attaches to the can. Never disconnect a partially empty can unless there is a shutoff valve, and the valve is closed all the way. Better to add the entire can to the AC system.
If you have never added freon to your 2003 VW Beetle, that's the most likely problem. You could also have developed a slow leak in the compressor or AC lines, so I recommend adding freon WITH a sealant in the same can just in case.

The job would cost between $45 and $65 if you take it to a reputible mechanic to perform. That usually includes a full blown pressure test of the AC system. and a whole list of costly recommendations.

Hello,
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Let me explain in layman's terms how the air conditioning (AC) system works and what could be happening to your car.

Like your body, the air conditioning compressor is the heart of the AC system, and Freon is the blood. The compressor pumps Freon throughout the AC system, either the older type R12 which costs as much as gold it seems these days, or the new environmentally-friendly R134A Freon. This Freon is a gas and liquid combination that is compressed and circulated throughout the air conditioning system. The compressed Freon is pushed through the system under pressure and is passed through different sized metal and rubber hoses and a special valve called an expansion valve that cause the gas to expand and contract.

This expansion and contraction makes the Freon gas very cold. This cold gas makes its way via metal lines into the dash area of your vehicle to the evaporator core. This evaporator core is like a small radiator, except it has cold Freon circulating inside and not hot antifreeze. A small fan (the AC blower fan which you control from the control panel on the dash) sits in front of the evaporator core and blows air across this cold evaporator and then through the vents inside your vehicle.

The other objective of the air conditioning system is to remove the heat from inside the cab of the vehicle. This heat is removed by the Freon with the help of the AC condenser located at the front of the car (usually in front of the radiator). The Freon coming back from the evaporator carries the heat from the cab to the condenser via rubber and metal hoses. Just like your radiator, the condenser is lightweight aluminum with many internal winding coils.
The Freon travels through these coils, and in between these coils are small slits or fins that the Freon is forced through. The condenser will have an electric cooling fan mounted in front or behind it to push or pull air through these fins to remove the heat from the Freon. Some vehicles still use the old fashioned fan blade driven by the engine to pull air across the radiator and the condenser.
Now I know that is just a tidbit of information on how the air conditioning system works, and it is very general, but I wanted you to know what to look for to give you insight as to what might be happening with your vehicle.
A few causes of low cooling efficiency or no cooling at all at idle are:

Lack of air flow across the condenser. Make sure the electric cooling fan motor near the condenser is coming on, or in models that are equipped with a fan blade make sure this fan is turning and is turning very fast.

Low Freon levels. Freon level and pressure should be checked by your certified air conditioning mechanic.

Overheating. If the engine is running hot or overheating, it can have a noticeable negative affect on the air conditioning system. Some cars have two electric cooling fans, one for the air conditioning condenser and the other for the radiator. Make sure they are both working properly. Usually at idle on a hot day with the AC on both fans will be on.

When the vehicle is traveling at freeway speeds, the compressor is pumping the Freon throughout the system much faster and harder than at idle. There is a dramatic increase in air flow across the condenser due to 55 mph winds, and the engine is usually operating at a cooler, more efficient temperature as well, thus allowing the air conditioning system to operate efficiently.
Note: An air conditioning system that is somewhat low on Freon can still feel comfortable at freeway speeds due to the added air flow across the condenser which can overcome the ill effects of slightly low Freon. Periodic air conditioning performance checks by your mechanic are the best way to keep the system in great shape.

Hope this helps.

Goodluck

Get a freon charger with a guage and make sure the unit is at the right pressure when running. If the unit starts and then stops you usually need to add freon because the compressor is running dry because the charge cant keep up with demand.

Add freon slowly and be sure the ac is on. A small puff....and wait to see if compressor comes on. When it does you can add until the guage reads in range. Try to keep it in the mid to lower end of the range. Believe it or not the fuller units dont run as cool!

Be careful! Adding freon too fast to a compressor can cause "slugging" and can damage the system!

All three of the above answers are incorrect. There is no need for freon to be introduced into the system, if the system is fully charged. If you do this, and follow the above advice, you will damage your AC compressor. What you need to do is get the vehicle hooked up to a set of refrigerent gauges at a local competent service center, and the pressures will tell your competant mechanic what to do next. NEVER 'add freon' if you are not 100% sure that the system is low.

This can be a Difficult one. Ther are many reasons for the system to stop apart from a lack of Freon.
I presume the A/c Compressor Drive belt is good, and that the Compressor Pulley Freely Rotates, also the Clutch Drive Shaft The A/c Relay and Fuse are also good.[Look in the Fuse Boxes located Inside the Vehicle, and under the Hood]
If all is OK, then follow the A/c High Pressure line towards the Firewall from the A/c Condenser at the Radiator, and you will see a " T " fitting in the line with a Dust Cover on it, normally coloured "Red"
Based on the Freon Capacity of your system, purchase 1 more can than you think you need
Engine OFF, take the cover off the Can of R134a and inject the contents into that Port. Start the Engine and Set controls to MAX A/c and Blowers on Full Speed. Shortly after starting the A/c Compressor clutch should engage, if it does not, Stop the Engine, add more Freon and try again. If the Compressor Clutch fails to engage, you can continue again, but I would advise you Contact an Independent A/c Repairer for a physical "CHECK and ADVISE ONLY" on your system. As I said earlier, there are other reasons of failure. [eg] Leaking Compreesor Shaft Seal, Coupling "O" Ring leak, Condenser holed, H/P or L/P integral system switch failure. Defective Orifice tube, failed Accummulator. Going your way, may be a Financial choice, for which you may be lucky, but Sod's Law says that this is rarely the solution.
Even so, best of luck in your endevours.
Before I sign off, do you have access to a Set of A/c gauges, if so, test with them for a basic system pressure reading, which should be greater than 30 psi at rest, on the High Pressure side.

On that model,it will cycle on and off while you add freon.If it does not ,then the ac system might have a problem.The low side pressure switch is located on,or near the accumulator .Unplug the switch and take the wire end plug and connect the two plug in`s together(cross it out on the wire).This will make the ac compressor engage and you can charge the system,do not leave the wire connected,plug it back up to switch.If the ac compressor does not come on ,then have the system checked out.

When you add the freon turn the can upside down and it will push the oil and freon out of the can. If you have it up it sends freon but no oil.
You also may need more freon before the compressor will kick in.

Did you put some freon oil in it or a can of stop leak. A lot of times freon will leak from the o rings. If you just add freon and no oil it will slowly leak out. Add about 4 ounces of oil and then your freon. Let the car run w/ac on for about 30 minutes. This should work.

To diagnose problems, an A/C manifold gauge set is needed to read high and low side pressure readings. Avoid adding refrigerant with a simple charging kit like the ones sold at parts stores. Don’t add any stop leak, this can cause problems in the compressor, expansion valve or condenser.
Keep in mind that using an A/C gauge set and seeing BOTH high and low side readings can help in diagnosing the problem when you know what to look for. First, on a 134A system the high and low side service ports are different sizes. AC gauge sets have color coded hoses, the blue color coded hose has a connection that fits on the low side service port and the red hose has a connection that will only fit onto the high side. The yellow hose won’t hook up to anything if just checking the readings; it can be used to connect to a vacuum pump or attached to a refrigerant can or tank.

Normal readings on high and low side with AC OFF (static pressure) - Depends on outside temperature, but normally is between 80-105 PSI
Normal low side reading with AC on high speed and MAX & engine at 800-1000 RPM’s - Ranges from 25-35 PSI - Note that on many Chrysler products a normal reading on the low side may be 15-25 PSI
Normal high side reading ranges from 200-350 PSI

Don’t assume that if adding little Freon is good that adding a lot is better!  Overcharging just a little can decrease the performance of the system and possibly damage the compressor.

Both low and high side readings are lower than normal, this indicates a cars AC system is low on refrigerant and is under-charged.
If both low and high side readings are too high, this indicates an overcharged system - too much refrigerant. This also can indicate that the condenser fan is not working, is too slow or the car is overheating and heat is transferring from the radiator to the condenser.

Good luck and hope this helps, keep me posted be glad to answer any question you may have. And yes the A/C system on your car uses R143a and there is a A/C pressure switch along the low pressure line or on the accumulator, it looks like a oil pressure sensor with a two wire lead cliped on it.