1st thought is. If you can get at the starter motor with a small hammer,or something,have somone hold the key on "start" and tap the motor,if it cranks ,it's a starter brush broblem.
This procedure usually works:
·Check the battery cable connections:
Make sure the negative cable makes a good ground connection at the battery and (preferably) at the engine. Make sure the positive cable, makes a good connection at the battery and at the starter.
·Check the battery the simple way, like this:
Turn on the headlights, then try to start the car.If the headlights do not dim or go out, then the battery is likely ok.
·Check the starter and solenoid:
If the wiring looks ok, then look at the starter solenoid for a good connection, and proper voltage at the starter(10 volts minimum while cranking).
If the starter spins and no crank, the problem is most likely the Solenoid's pinion gear is stuck.
Have someone hit (not too hard) the starter while you try to start the car. This usually works by dislodging a stuck pinion gear.
·Make a simple test of the alternator:
If you can, somehow get the engine running, measure the voltage at the battery. It should be at least 13.6 volts to properly charge the battery.
SOURCE: positive battery cable
You must make sure the connection is clean and tight. Chip away any corrosion, which can sometimes be hard and crusty. Make sure the cable is not frayed or a significant amount of individual strands of copper broken at the terminal connector.
Make sure your alternator is working and you are not running your car on the battery. Measure the voltage while the car is running, it should be around 14 volts.
SOURCE: Will the wheels from a BMW Z3 M fit a 1999 BMW Z3 2.8 ltr roadster?
yes they will you just may need to use a wheel spacer
SOURCE: 1998 BMW Z3 2.8 Idles rough when cold starting in wet weather
the problem could be in air mass flow sensor, but it's expensive
SOURCE: 2000 audi a4 starter gremlin
your barking up the wrong gum tree witht the starter motor ,you have an electrical supply problem on the battery terminal area with more than one wire connected or a dodgy earth cable from the engine to the chassis .i would be inclined to check and fit another earth cable from a good connection on the engine -(bell housing) and run it back to battery terminal to eliminate all posibilitys .before anything else ,make you own if you have to but only use copper cable .this is my last question for tonight ,have to go pick er indoors up from work now
SOURCE: Check engine light on 1998 Z3 BMW
BMW engine light
Comes on if DME engine management system self diagnostic fault detected. Will stay on until codes are called up and memory erased.
With OBD read the code as follows. Turn on ignition key, press accelerator pedal to the floor five times within 5 seconds. The check engine light will remain on for 5 sec , blik off, come on for 2,5 sec, go off for 2,5 sec and fault code will begin to flash. If more than one fault exist 2nd fault code will be separated by 2,5 sec pause. after fault codes there will be a 0.5 sec flash and light will remain off. to read codes again do procedure again.
Canceling of codes. make sure fault code is present (short blink and light goes out for long period), depress throttle pedal for at least 10 sec. read fault codes again and check for code 1444 (no faults stored.)
Check also the following, fuel pump, oxygen sensor, fuel injectors, engine coolant temp sensor, idle speed control valve, mass airflow sensor and too many other things.
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