How to remove the turbo vw touareg v6 tdi

If intake isn't connected this can happen, or if turbo is overlooking and kicking out a code to shut vanes. Also try unplugging your mass airflow sensor, see if that changes anything. If it does then you need a new sensor.

Shift interlock problem. This is designed to keep the car from being shifted out of park by accident without your foot on the brake. The easy is to chaeck and make sure your brake switch is working and all your fuses are in working order. You should be able to over ride the interlock if you still have issues by inserting your key into a small slot located somewhere near the sifter. If the fueses are good and the brake switch is working you will need to have the interlock assembly diagnosed.

2005 VW Touareg V6 3,2 petrol engine:


2005 VW Touareg V6 2,5 TDI engine:

PLEASE DO NOT add any oil to the fuel,use redexe/wynns diesel additive to clean the lines/injectors/turbo vanes,but burnt oil will stick to the turbo vanes and could cause failure.....just use 10/40 semi synthetic oil as normal and change regularly.also let the car tickover for a min or two after a HOT run....

If you have a problem that isn't caused by something obvious, you need a Ross tech VCDS cable. This is a laptop computer diagnostic cable to talk to the car's computer. Without it you cannot do the more advanced tests.
Note about generations - some generations have similar engines: Mk3= 1996-1997 3rd generation Passat TDI or 1996-1999 3rd gen Jetta TDI Mk4= 1998-2006 New Beetle, 1999-2005 Jetta, 1999-2006 Golf, 2004-2005 Passat TDI Mk5= 2005.5-2010 Jetta TDI Mk6= 2010+ Golf TDI
Remember, an engine needs fuel, air, and compression to run. Low power is related to a lack of one of these or a sensor problem making the computer thinking there's a lack of these. Any sensor problem could also be caused by a bad ground or broken/chaffed wire so also check every section of the wiring of the suspect sensor for breaks.
Bad MAF sensor - very likely cause on the mk4 TDI. Not common on the mk3 TDI (1996-1999 Jetta/Passat). Early mk4 MAFs failed often.Error codes normally do not show up with a faulty MAF since the signal degrades instead of going out completely. Through VCDS, checking MAF actual vs. specified at idle, high rpm, and high load will quickly show a bad MAF or other problem causing a low MAF reading.
Clogged intake manifold - carbon buildup chokes the intake manifold, starving the engine of air. Only ultra low sulfur diesel is sold in North America now so there should be much less buildup in the future. Always use good quality synthetic engine oil on your TDI..
Anti shudder valve shut or almost shut (does not apply to mk3 TDI, more for mk4 TDI) - there is a spring loaded valve right before the intake manifold. Newer TDI use an electronic valve and are not as susceptible to sticking. If there is excess carbon buildup, it could shut in a partially closed position.
Clogged snowscreen/air filter - a clogged air filter will starve the engine of air. A clogged snowscreen (large debris air pre-filter) shouldn't block off all air unless the aux-intake flap is also clogged.
Clogged fuel filter - change interval is 20,000 miles but biodiesel use (cleans out old buildup) or bad fuel could clog it early, resulting in fuel starvation. Algae or bacterial growth in the fuel tank could also clog the lines.
Boost leak - a cracked hose or loose connector lets measured air out. No air or major leaks = poor engine running or stuttering. A visual inspection may not reveal all the possible or hard to see spots where leaks can form.
Hose inside ECU (mk3 TDI only, does not apply to mk4 or newer TDI) - this hose leaks and normally sets a check engine light,
Vacuum lines to/from turbo and n75 solenoid - these dry out over time and crack or can rub through. It's possible they are clogged. The n75 solenoid controls the turbo wastegate or VNT vanes with either vacuum or pressure. b4 Passat - on firewall above coolant reservoir, a3 Jetta - on pass side near air box, a4 Jetta/Golf - on firewall above brake fluid reservoir.
Problem with the n75 solenoid, VNT actuator, VNT vanes, or vacuum lines. You should have already checked the vacuum lines, the below test will inspect the entire system. Start the engine and through VCDS, click on "engine"-->"measuring blocks"-->hit "up" until you reach "group 11". Compare Specified vs. Actual MAP. This compares what's actually happening and being observed from the boost sensor (barring a faulty sensor/plug/wire) to boost the computer is requesting (what should be happening). They should be relatively close. If they are far off this normally results in limp mode but it could also be contributing to the problem. If you have a mk3 you have a conventional turbo but you can still use this test to check the n75 solenoid, the wastegate, and vac lines. However, wastegates are much less susceptible to sticking vs. VNT vanes. The videos below show how it works. The lever on the outside is welded to a lever inside the turbo housing. This is how it moves the VNT vanes. See the below videos to see how smoothly and free the lever should move. It should not stick or bind at all. Vacuum is being applied to the can, not pressure.
If the test shows poor response or no response at all, it could be sticky VNT vanes/actuator (mk4 and newer TDI only), The vanes or actuator can stick or fail to function, the lever should move freely.
If the actuator is fine, also check the n75 solenoid and vac lines. The n75 solenoid controls vacuum or boost to the vacuum line going to the turbo wastegate/VNT actuator. To test, apply voltage to the solenoid or swap with a known good unit. If you have a mk4 TDI, you can swap it with the EGR solenoid to test. Also check the plug for corrosion and the wiring harness for chaffing. If those are good, disconnect the VNT actuator rod and move the vanes by hand. If the vanes are stuck then remove the turbo and clean the inside of the exhaust housing to free the stuck vanes.
Faulty injection pump's fuel injection quantity adjuster - these are occasionally set wrong from the factory or after seal replacement. It's also possible the fuel pump's internal quantity adjuster is faulty. Applies to 1996-2003 TDI only or TDI that use a Bosch VE injection pump (not pumpe duse or common rail). Injection quantity should be 3-5 at idle and up to 36-38 at full throttle.

Same as any other vehicle.

1. Raise and support vehicle
2. Remove tire/wheel
3. Loosen/remove the two caliper bolts
4. Slide caliper off the rotor.
5. Use a C-Clamp to depress the caliper piston
6. Remove old pads from caliper
7. Install new pads on caliper
8. Install caliper/tighten caliper bolts
9. Install tire/wheel
10.Lower vehicle
11 Move to next wheel/repeat

Some people take a turkey baster and remove some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder prior to depressing the caliper piston because it can over flow. If you choose to do that just add the fluid back when finished so it is at its proper level.

For VW TDI: Fault code P1550 = "Charge Pressure Deviation"
You must check up all vacuum hoses, the pressure charge air line (pressure hoses, spring-type clips, charge air cooler), the vacuum reservoir and also all solenoid control valves.
You must try follows if you are able to do this:
1. Engine stopped and ignition switch off. Check all pneumatic connections and hoses between turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control, boost-pressure control solenoid valve, vacuum reservoir, EGR control solenoid valve, intake-manifold flap solenoid valve, EGR valve with throttle - part of intake manifold. Also the vacuum connection between tandem pump and brake booster. If you find something wrong replace parts. If not go to step 2.
2. Extract the hose of the turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control part of turbocharger. Instead of the original hose you must place another 1 meter long hose with the same inside diameter, and then you check to inspire yourself the air from the other one extremity of this hose. The mechanical connecting rod of the turbocharger actuator must have a smooth and whole motion. If you can do that with your mouth, then you must replace the boost-pressure control solenoid valve. If you can not reach this with your mouth, then you go to step 3.
3. This is the most difficult work. The problem is that the soot particles deposits inside the turbocharger plugging the variable nozzle geometry mechanism = adjustable vanes of the turbine. If the turbocharger actuator is not able to adjust the turbine vanes the charge air pressure increase too much and ECU (engine control unit) go in "limp mode" = engine protection software. As a result the "limp mode" engine still running until you turn the engine off (ignition switch off) and back on when the "limp mode" is deactivated.
4. You must be able to extract the turbo from the engine and then to disassemble the turbocharger, clean inside adjustable vanes mechanism and refit all.
It is some work to do here, but after that you will be full satisfied!

you can buy a rebuilt kit from the manufacture who supplies vw with the turbos.

Hello, your car is probaly a variale vane turbo fitted and all you need to do is seperate the VNT part of the turbo, give it a good clean with brake/carb cleaner get rid of the sticky oily residue which makes the vanes stick on turbo causing a overboost fault, a delearship might tell you that your car has been remapped at some time setting the boost RPM at like 14 or 1500 and it should be like 2200 I do not know the specifics on your vehicle but a good auto manual will tell you at which RPM your boost should build. I would have a diagnostic done and see if this is your problem, if so do the above and go back and see if it fixed your overboost problem. If not, you will need your ECU remapped. I hope this fixes your problem!

P1557 is an overboost condition, poss. from sticky vanes or actuator in the turbo. P1570 is due to your immobilizer being tripped somtime in the recent past. As long as the car still starts and doesn't shut off a few seconds later this poses no problem