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terry_strock Posted on Feb 24, 2014
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Car will not start

I replace the engine and the car will not start. The coil has a three wire connection. The center wire has 12 volts. The right and left(switching) wire doesn't have any signal. I have tested the cam and crank sensors. I have checked all the wire connections. I have checked the engine management fuse. All tested ok.

1 Answer

spikeyherbs

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  • Mercury Expert 274 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 17, 2015
spikeyherbs
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Joined: Apr 27, 2010
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Motors need three things to start...spark, fuel and air.

Are your spark plugs getting spark?
Do you have adequate fuel pressure?

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 235 Answers
  • Posted on May 05, 2009

SOURCE: 2000 Mercury Sable 24V 3.o engine. Need to know

yes about the upper intake and the only way i know how to check the coils is with a engine anilyser or if the check engine light comes on then you can have the codes pulled and that will tell you which cylender is missfiring this engine has a indevidual coil for each spark plug so thares 6 of them and thay slide right down over the sparkplugs

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litoshop

Josue Almodovar

  • 298 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 31, 2009

SOURCE: when given power, car starts to crank with key in off position

Hi I'm litoshop if you connected the wires exactly the same way the old solenoid was connected then you have a bad solenoid if the parts are not oem you can get a lot of bad after market parts I prefer original parts to avoid these kind of problems, But if your not sure about the wiring then I need to know how many wires connected to the solenoid what year and engine is your car so I can help you. if this information has been useful please let us know thank you

Anonymous

  • 104 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 05, 2009

SOURCE: i have a 93 mercury topaz that stalls while driving

if it only stalls hot relace the ign module on distributor

Testimonial: "THANK YOU"

Anonymous

  • 4803 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 11, 2009

SOURCE: I have a 93 mercury topaz 4cyl 2.3L that stalls

It sounds to me like you replaced everything but the most likely cause of a stall while driving...The crank sensor.

rtpflh

rtpflh

  • 546 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 13, 2009

SOURCE: 93 mercury topaz 4cyl 2.3L

check for vacuum leaks,especially at fuel control valves,intake manifold.locate T P [throttle position]Sensor,on intake,opposite throttle lever.check wiring connector,spray sensor with WD 40 or CRC,if a change is noted,replace T P S.

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0helpful
1answer

Right coil keeps burning out

For coils to burn it indicates either the incorrect voltage coil in use or a dead short through the primary windings or failed resistor in the circuit.
Coils come in either straight 12 volts or 12 volts start but run on 7 volts through a resistor or resistor wire . If that resistor is shorted out the 12 v on the 7 volt windings will burn out the coil . Coils are connected in parallel and never in series as that increases the amp loading on the coil windings . Check the ignition module for the second coil as it may be shorting out internally.
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Ignition coils burning up

coils come in t different voltages for two different wiring applications in cars.. Let me give you a sample . Car A ignition is 12 volts so there is a 12 volt coil fitted IT starts on 12 volts and runs on 12 volts. no problem .BUT car B ignition system is divided into 2 sections The start section is 12 volts so that the coils get maximum voltage fro starting but in the run position the circuit switches to a resisted circuit so that the coil only gets 7.5 volts . Now if you put a resisted coil in a 12volt car (A) then the coil will burn out very quickly as there is no resistance circuit to protect it. The General (GM) use a resisted wire from the ignition switch to the coil so that you have 2 wires on one terminal and one wire to the distributor. Check which coils you have been using as you will see on the bottom a note --use with resistor--. Second point if you leave the ignition on and the engine is not running then there is a current that is passing through the coil and this is an electric field and that will (like and induction heater burn up the coil
0helpful
1answer

1971 chevy truck will just shut of any given time. not getting spark. let it sit few minutes starts right up?

check that you have the correct voltage coil installed. IT sounds as if the coil is overheating and failing. There are 2- 12 volt coils on the market. one is a full 12 coil and the other is a duel voltage coil. The wiring allows to start opn 12 volts and as soon as the engine starts runs on 7 volts through a resistor.If you are running a12 volt use with resistor coil on straight 12 volts system you will have problems as you describe
4helpful
1answer

1998 Ford Explorer, 4.0 SOHC No Spark. Engine will crank but it won't start. Replaced the Crankshaft Sensor, Coil Pack, & Spark Plugs. Still no spark. What next?

You are at thhe right trail what controls spark is coil pack crank sensor sparkplugs and plug wire but the most important is power . I mean 12 volt connections and ground This includes checking fuses you need a simple volt meter doesnt have to expensive or fancy just to pick up 12 volts let start with fuses in the engine juction box (there not mark to what it belongs to) make sure none are open. especially fuse 19 and 24 , next go to the crank sensor make sure the tabs are snuggly on now to the coil pack there is a red and light green wire this comes from ignition and feeds 12 volts at the coil pack measure that voltage is it 12 volts if not correct it this is from ignition switch ( you can make a tool that feed 12 volt with a wire and a fuse in series and attatch it to battery and the primary wire this is known as hot wire) next go to the ECM wiggle the wires see if that get a connection going if not go back to the ICM here are the wire you are to measure the tan light green, this is from ECM and it is pulsed it measure 5vlts to 0 volts switched then measure the tan orange the same thing 5 volts to zero,then tan white again 5vlts to zero. any one of these 5 to zero fails you fix is the ecm
1helpful
1answer

When the motor gets hot the car cuts and will not start for awhile.ran water over the distributor and the car started up.what caused that?

The most likely cause is you have a bad distributor. The coil is inside the distributor and when it gets hot, it quits creating spark. The testing to verify this is a little complicated and takes a little know how.
To test the coil in the distributor first disconnect the Automatic Shut Down (ASD) relay (located on the drivers side on the firewall in a group of three relays, it is the middle one) and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) (on the drivers side in the front of engine compartment to the right of the air filter housing) connectors.

Next, remove the distributor cap and connect a grounded jumper wire near the coil tower. This is to check for spark jumping from the coil.

Jumper pin 30 to pin 87 at the ASD relay.

Check for 12 volts to the Dark Green/Orange wire at the single wire connector at the distributor. This wire feeds the positive side of the coil.

5. Connect a 12v test light to B+. With the probe end of the test light, momentarily tap the Black/Gray wire at pin 11of the PCM. This action should cause the coil to fire. If there is no spark out of the coil tower during this step, the distributor has failed and needs to be replaced. If there is spark from the coil tower check all powers and grounds at the PCM.
Hope this helps. Good luck!!
1helpful
3answers

Car starts and runs good untill the motor warms up.once the motor gets hot,the car cuts off and will not start.ran water over the distributor and the car started.what caused that?

The most likely cause is you have a bad distributor. The coil is inside the distributor and when it gets hot, it quits creating spark. The testing to verify this is a little complicated and takes a little know how.
To test the coil in the distributor first disconnect the Automatic Shut Down (ASD) relay (located on the drivers side on the firewall in a group of three relays, it is the middle one) and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) (on the drivers side in the front of engine compartment to the right of the air filter housing) connectors.

Next, remove the distributor cap and connect a grounded jumper wire near the coil tower. This is to check for spark jumping from the coil.

Jumper pin 30 to pin 87 at the ASD relay.

Check for 12 volts to the Dark Green/Orange wire at the single wire connector at the distributor. This wire feeds the positive side of the coil.

5. Connect a 12v test light to B+. With the probe end of the test light, momentarily tap the Black/Gray wire at pin 11of the PCM. This action should cause the coil to fire. If there is no spark out of the coil tower during this step, the distributor has failed and needs to be replaced. If there is spark from the coil tower check all powers and grounds at the PCM.
Hope this helps. Good luck!!
0helpful
2answers
0helpful
2answers

Doesn't start

I assume that when you started the car the starter was running and the engine was cranking.
Remove the #1 boot from spark plug 1. Insert a screw driver to the booth, bring the screw driver near the engine body (about 2 mm) and let someone start the engine. If there's no spark, replace the ignition coil. If there's a spark, check the ignition timing with a strobe light.

Before changing the ignition coil, make sure that the wires connected to it are alright. Remove them from the coil and switch on the engine. Measure the DC volts from the wires. You should get a 12 volts reading between them.
0helpful
2answers

1988 jeep comanche will start only when you hold tumbler in the start position, when you relese it, engine stops.. engine is a 4.0 auto, fuel injected 4x4

If the car has a resistor coil with a ballast resistor to drop voltage from 12 to 8 then check the resistor wiring. When you engage the starter tumbler it by passes the ballast resistor and sends 12 volts straight to the eight volt coil to get good spark. When you release it the 12 volts goes through the resistor to 8 volts and then the coil. If there is a fault in this circuit the engine stops. Jump the 12 volts straight to the coil and start it. If it keeps going the ballast circuit is faulty. Paul
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