Question about 2007 Nissan Altima 2.5
Gasket over sparkplug busted off its seal fouling out the ignition coil causing misfire. I need loosening pattern and tightening pattern and torque specification on the valve cover and motor mount upper
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
No spec for torque. Bolts have shoulders. Replace gasket. Tighten the 2 center nuts first and just tighten the rest until they stop. You can tighten one and jump across the valve cover and do the other, but not necessary.
Posted on Sep 27, 2008
There likely is a spec for oil pan but unless you are a finatic, you really don't need to know what it is. Simple rule: Don't crank down ******* any fastener. If corners near crank ends have larger fasteners, you can tighten them a bit more than on siderails. Before tightening anything, install all bolts finger tight, to ensure that they are not cross threaded. To avoid warping pan, tighten from the center of the pan, working towards both ends, alternating from side to side as you go. When you are finished, go over it again, using the same amount of force on each bolt. As I said, end bolts can if larger in diameter, be tightened more but be careful not to tighten so much that you will either split or push the gasket out the sides.. Anywhere two gasket ends **** together, I recommend using a sensor -safe dab of silicone. An oil pan is not under any mechanical stress or pressure. I have used this method for many years and NEVER had one leak. If you really need #s, small fasteners get about 12-15in lbs, larger ones about 20.
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
frajogag: First off, be aware that these bolts are "torque to yield" bolts (streach bolts). What this means is that instead of torqueing the head bolts to a specific torque specification, they are torqued down to a set spec and then tightened by rotating the bolts a certain angle, like 90 degrees. and all of them are turned the same amount.
This means that the shanks of the bolts must be checked to make sure they are not too thin (or the bolt has already stretched beyond limits and is prone to snap if used)
Here is how you check the bolts. Measure the bolt using a micrometer, at the base, or within the first 13mm from the end where it threads in. Then go to about 10mm before the threads end heading toward the top of the bolt. There should not be more than a 0.23mm (.0091 inch) or less difference or the bolt should be discarded.
Torque the bolts down to 98.1Nm ( 72.ft lb)
Looking at the head from the side, so you are looking at the full length from side to side, I will number the head bolts in this fashion.
#1 & 2 are directly in front of you and in the center of the cylinder head crossing it width wise.
#3&4 are to the left of #1&2, / #5&6 are to the right of #1&2
#7&8 are to the left of #3&4 / #9$10 are to the right of #5&6
Now, you have the sequence.
After the initial pull, back off all the bolts in the same sequence and then retorque them to 36 Nm ( 28 ft lb)
Using a torque angle wrench or having the ability to accurately judge turning angles. Rotate (clockwise) to a 75 degree angle. do this to all the bolts using the sequence I had provided.
Rotate the bolts (clockwise) 75 degrees again on all bolts in the same sequence. The proceedure is complete!
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
I would ask you why you want to change the mounts? They usually are not a problem unless the car was in a crash. Can you see that they are broken? If it is just engine shaking due to rough idle then the motor mounts will not solve this. You will need to find out what is causing the misfire to smooth it out.
Posted on May 13, 2009
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