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I cant get my a985 F250 to stay running, bought a new Carb, bought a new ignition control module, new coil

I know the problem is got to be something electrical that turns the fuel pump on. I got some carb cleaner, took apart my fuel line that goes into the carb, had somebody start the truck while I was spraying carb cleaner into the carburetor and I was looking at the fuel line got a shot of fuel when the truck was starting but then after the truck had been running no fuel was coming out of the fuel line. could somebody please help me?

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Check the wiring from the ignition switch . When you got fuel as the engine was cranking then the power for the pump is on the start side of the ignition switch and not in conjunction with the run side of the switch.. IT could be a fuse in the run circuit or a faulty pump relay.

Posted on Feb 17, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: My 1985 F250 starts then dies after a few seconds of running. I put on a brand new ignition control module, and that wasnt it. I also replaced the ignition coil, ignition coil cap, and Bought a bran

By your description it sounds like you have carburetor issues, Possible clogged metering jets , a float problem , throttle adjustment or even possibly a major vacuum leak.

Posted on Feb 10, 2014

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2 Answers

Worst starting problem ever! Must be something simple, just can't find it.



Ignition module? Is that what you meant by control module? Don't go cheap with that. Also starter solenoid may not have the run wire in the right location. The little one on the solenoid. Sorry if posted twice....

Sep 04, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1975 f250 with 460 starts but won't run after releasing ignition.


check the voltage of the coil ( stamped on the bottom
if it has 7.5 volts then the problem is the run circuit from the ignition switch to the coil or distributor
It turns over and fires on the start circuit as that is straight 12 volts but when you release the key to the run position it goes through a resistance wire or block to drop it to 7.5 volts or the coil will burn out
with the key in the run position connect a multimeter to the coil wire and read the voltage ( if it is not there you have not connected up the circuit properly
if you have a voltage there and it is 12 volts make sure the coil is a straight 12 volt coil

Sep 03, 2016 | Ford F-250 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 1995 f150, 4.9 automatic. I have recently put in a new coil, a new ignition control module and a new distributor cap but I don't get ant spark from the coil. What could it be?


Check for power and ground at the coil. If you have it. Then I would have the ignition module checked, you could have bought a bad one. It happens.

Oct 20, 2014 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

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I have a 1991 Ford f250 it runs great first thing then the idle gets a little high next its starts sucking air and backfiring then it quits and refuses to run until it sits awhile,Ive put a new battery and...


Once again sounds like a vacuum leak. Test for that with spraying brake parts cleaner in small amounts around the carb or TBI and manifold. I the engine speeds up. Bingo vacuum leak. Good luck

May 18, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My 1985 F250 starts then dies after a few seconds of running. I put on a brand new ignition control module, and that wasnt it. I also replaced the ignition coil, ignition coil cap, and Bought a bran


By your description it sounds like you have carburetor issues, Possible clogged metering jets , a float problem , throttle adjustment or even possibly a major vacuum leak.

Feb 10, 2014 | Ford F-250 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

No spark at distr. new starter battery selenoid ignition coil 5.8 1990 f250


Hi and welcome to FixYa!

As a first course of action, I strongly suggest that you replace the distributor coil. If the coil is worn out there will be no spark to the distributor going to the plugs. Once replaced you'll be good.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

Feb 12, 2011 | 1990 Ford F250

1 Answer

1987 cutlass ciera TBI carb -fuel to carb but no fuel injecting into carb-jet module is good-What other problem


If there is fuel to the fuel injectors in the top of the throttle body TBI (Throttle Body Injection) but they do not function, then most likely there is no signal or pulse to the fuel injectors. Check the ECM and the Fuel Injection fuses first.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems or all of them to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

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1 Answer

89 f250 new coil, new control module, still no spark whats next -suppression resistor


Check to see if there is a dwell signal from the distributor. Use a test light and ground the test light lead to a good ground, and then using the test light check the Neg. (-) side of the ignition coil, have someone crank the engine over and you should see the test light blink off and on showing that there is a dwell signal or "pulse" to the ignition coil.

If the test light stays steady and does not flash when the engine is cranking over, then the pick-up coil inside of the distributor is bad and you should replace it or the distributor.

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It would be great if you could find the Ignition Control Module!!! From my experience on my Jeep...90 YJ 4.2 liter carb. it does not have one...Computer controlled only...

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