Question about 1995 Honda Civic
Trying to replace front axle but spindle nut won't come off can i replace the hub too
If the nut is stuck , way not get expert help.
it will come of in the right hands (heat, and impact gun)
heat axle to about 200F. to 300f
the as it cools hit it with penetration oil.
as it cools it may suck in the oil (physics trick)
and now the impact gun. no shop air, makes hard work on any cars.
so if no shop air, use a 1/2 drive or more breaker bar.
and use a pipe extenson, most 1/2 will snap at over 150lbs.
so 3/4" works better
but the impact gun works best.
you can youtube this > why not do that.?
here is first google hit on hubs
or here is honda real.
what you need is obvious. if you just look at the real drawings.
brake page and hub,
tell my how would you pass the hole hub
thru the small, hole in the knuckle spindle.
you going to buy a whole new axle and knuckle.
Posted on Feb 17, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I am not sure if your question is "The center axle nut is stuck and will not budge. How do I loosen it?" or if the question is "I've removed the center axle nut, how do I get the axle out of the
hub?" So I'll just answer both questions.
Starting with the first question, if the center axle nut is stuck beyond your ability to remove it, the simplest way is to pay someone else to do it. Drive the car to a shop or garage with power tools, and ask them to loosen the nut. Most places will do it for $20 or even less if you ask nicely. A 3/4 in. impact gun will take the nut right off. Then put it back on snug but not too tight for the drive back.
If you absolutely want to do it yourself. Assuming that you have the correct size socket (about 30mm), and you've removed the castle nut and the cotter pin. Liberally pply "Liquid Wrench" or "PBblaster" to the nut and let it sit overnight or at least a couple of hours - this really makes a big difference. Start with a 1/2 in. breaker bar (3/4 in. would be better). If the breaker bar by itself does not give you enough leverage, get a 4-foot or 5-foot length of steel pipe to fit over the bar as an extension to give more leverage. Be careful not to over do it, if the nut is seriously stuck, body weight can break the 1/2 in. bar with an extension of this length.
If this does not work, get a propane torch, apply heat directly to the nut to expand it. Then try to turn it with the bar while it's hot.
If this still does not work, get a dremel tool or a cold chisel and cut the nut. Since you are replacing the axle you do not need to worry about the threads.
Now, if you've undone the center axle nut, and cannot figure out how to get the axle out of the hub, there are a few things that help. First, you must undo the outer tie-rod end from the spindle, to allow the spindle to pivot away from the control arm. Use a puller tool on the tie rod end, so you do not damage it. As an alternative to disconnecting the tie-rod, you have the option to disconnect either the strut arm or the ball joint - it doesn't matter as long as you give the knuckle the degree of freedom it needs to fall away from the axle. Then, use a mallet to tap the end of the axle and disengage it from the hub.
Good luck, and let me know if you have any questions.
Posted on Apr 03, 2010
SOURCE: CAN'T GET THE HUB OFF
Hi place the nut back onto the thread just so its level with the end of the thread (thread level with the end of the nut) this is so you dont damage the thread, once done this give it a wack!!! i know it sounds harsh but over time things bind together this just splits it,
Hope this helps and please rate accordingly
Posted on Dec 11, 2008
SOURCE: can't get hub off
dont take the hub off take off the rotor and the caliper hit the stud with a hammer and it will come out just turn it to get to the next one to put them in put the stud in and put an over size nut on the stud then the lug nut then as you tighten it it will pull through
Posted on Dec 11, 2008
Unstake the nut and turn left, a impact wrench is needed, be sure to torque the nut when putting it back together, 135 ft lbs.
Posted on Feb 05, 2010
will try to help. 1st remove the wheel, then remove the 2 caliper bolts that hold the brake caliper on. after removal of brake caliper, [it should just pull off after the 2 bolts are removed] replace the brake pads[be sure to apply anti squeal lube to the outer side of the pads..not the pad itself,the one not contacting the brake rotor] install the pads, the you will need a C clamp to push the brake caliper pistons back into the caliper. i've used this installation easily. use the old pad ,place it against the caliper piston,then apply the C clamp and push the caliper piston back into the brake caliper, then the brake caliper will slide back over the new pads easily, no need to bleed the brakes if you use this solution. replace the brake caliper bolts, then go to next side and repeat the process. after the replacement of the front brake pads,pump the brakes with engine running!!! it's really a simple process. be sure the brake pads are facing the brake rotors with the [pads] facicing the rotors. no metal facing metal. easy! if you have added brake fluid recently, do not be alarmed if you see fluid coming out of the brake master cylinder,when you use the C clamp to collaspe the brake caliper back into the recessed position. [as always when you have to add brake fluid to the brake master cylinder,it only means your brakes are wearing naturally. if you have a vibration in front wheels or steering wheel when braking, you have a brake rotor or both front brake rotors that need replacement with your brakes also. hope this helps and as always, please get a second opinion if you have doubt. an expert will be happy to help. thank you for choosing fixya.com
Posted on Dec 22, 2010
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