Question about 1994 Pontiac Grand Am
Starts but does not stay running
The security, antitheft or lock picture/icon is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM (Theft Deterrent Module). These 3 parts are in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, then these parts are sending signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, the car misinterprets this as an attempt at theft and goes into antitheft mode. The car thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is not getting that signal from YOUR specific key. This is why the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle. This link explains it pretty well.
Posted on Feb 19, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: starts but doesnt stay running
I'm not sure your car even has one but the symptom is reeeaal familiar; 'starts fine, dies afterward.'
Ignition coils used a special resistor or a relay that switched one in or out of circuit depending on whether you were starting the engine or afterward, running it. The special resistor started at a low value of resistance but rose rapidly to a higher one allowing more current to flow through the coil primary to start. The design using a relay simply bypassed a fixed resistor (not heat sensitive) during the cranking of the engine.
The resistor allowed either a full 12 volts or at least a good bit of it to be used for starting by supplying the primary of the coil with a much higher voltage than needed to only keep it running. This allowed the use of a 'hotter' coil that stepped up the voltage more than was done 50 years go. That high current could not be tolerated for longer periods as it would eventually cause heating to the point of coil failure.
If you can come up with an electrical diagram of your ignition system, check the path of voltage to the ignition coil and keep an eye open for a symbol of a zig-zag line inside of a rectangle, a symbol often used in other schematics, and if you have one that has an arrow across the zig-zags, this is the thermally sensitive resistor that needs no relay to function.
These were often mounted on the fire wall, not far from the steering column so the wire run wasn't overly long and are often in a ceramic rectangle with wires attached to either end.
Posted on Sep 28, 2008
Is your car fuel injected or carbed? That question is of no value , it only lets you know where to start...The problem is Your car isnt getting any fuel from the tank........Look for a small valve near the fuel rail ( if it is fuel injected) sorta looks like a tire valve stem, and it works like one also......You could try bleed the system of air by pushing in on the little stem in the center of this while someone tries to start it. When you get nothing but fuel your cooking...Make sure you disconnect the coile wire "out of the Coil" before trying this...........If it is carbed, check you filter and then unscrew the fuel line from the carb just enough to see if there is fuel getting to the carb while turning over the eng. If none of this works,,,,,,,you may have a fuel pump problem , and if i am not mistakening that baby is in the tank...Let me know!!!!!!! RC
Posted on Mar 04, 2009
sounds like you have a vacuum leak, check all the vacuum hoses and replace any broken or kinked ones, also check around the intake manifold gasket for leaks. any air leaks after the air flow meter creates 'un-metered' air which inturn will make the car run rough and stall, hope this helps
Posted on Apr 04, 2009
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