Question about Renault Sport

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Lost my marks on flywheel when i take it off

I'm changing flywheel oil seal and has lost my marks on it,how do i find the correct position to install back the flywheel??

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  • Renault Master
  • 44,210 Answers

Flywheels are either doweled in place or the bolt holes are not symmetrical. That means that of all the holes one will not line up properly to allow you to insert the bolt. Keep turning the flywheel on the crank until all the bolts go all the way in finger tight . If you have one that is a bit tight start again turning one hole at a time .until you achieve them all finger tight.

Posted on Feb 16, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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keemo68
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SOURCE: correct flywheel installation '90 240 B230 w/5 SPD transmission

you should have index holes on the flywheel this is to keep the balance of the crankshaft of the motor. the sensor on the back is the knock sensor. your index hole on the flywheel should line up with the holes on the crank. in most instances they should only fit one way. also make sure you put the right side facing the engine. this is important other wise you won't be able to connect the trans and the starter won't match up right.....please rate..thanks

Posted on Sep 20, 2008

  • 383 Answers

SOURCE: nissan, maxima, engine: 2988 cc, VQ30DE,

topmarincons: In checking this car for flywheels available, Nissan only lists one part number 12310-2Y910. I could find no other references or part numbers superseding this one.
When you list a single sheave, it sounds more like you are describing a front crank pulley. Again, in researching part numbers, I could only come up with one number :12303-31U10. It is commonly referred to as a "Harmonic balancer". In looking at an exploded parts diagram, it shows a serpentine type pulley."Single sheave". As far as sources: This particular part rarely fails.
New, it, dealer retail price is $234.33
Check with salvage yards, you can buy them for a fraction of that price. Another option is to buy an "UNDER DRIVE" unit. This is a part which will add horse power by cutting down on some of the rotating mass, yet not affect that crankshaft harmonics which would affect it at high RPM's. "UNORTHODOX" racing, on-line I believe is one source. Good luck.......

Posted on Apr 18, 2009

centralvalle
  • 386 Answers

SOURCE: losing oil form flywheel end of crankshaft

yes , depending on wheter you talking about torque converter seal or rear engine main seal , on trans if your front pump bushing has excessive wear then it will not seal because the torque converter input shaft will ride on seal more than it is supposed to and also it will not run true, also check TC mounting of flex plate if you flex plate is not centered then it will rotate out of balance and cause leaks and pump damage, if you talking about a rear main engine seal you may have a issue with run out and or bearing wear issues cause seal to not be able to do its job, check all those issues, crank shaft end play as well as up and down play and check rotational run out on TC of trans and pump bushing in trans pump... hope this helps, thanks please rate...

Posted on Aug 07, 2009

emissionwiz
  • 76630 Answers

SOURCE: we need to know correct

please give year and model and engine size and a clearer discription of this tool u mention and exactly what u are doing here.

Posted on Sep 09, 2010

emissionwiz
  • 76630 Answers

SOURCE: flywheel oil seal leaking

This is called the rear main oil seal or the torque converter seal depending on what type of fluid is leaking out. To replace either seal you must remove the transmission from the car. You will need special tools and skills to properly install the seals or they will leak in very short order again. I suggest you have a trusted shop or the dealer do this repair.

Posted on Aug 08, 2012

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Changed clutch kit 3 times after finding out that oil spills on to the clutch, then Changed the gearbox but the same problem is still there. And now I'm thinking could it be the flywheel? The


The engine has a rear crankshaft seal that will leak into the bell housing and the flywheel can pick up oil and sling it on the clutch.Replacing the seal is the fix for that. As for lack of power, check for a worn timing chain or belt, a bad crank position sensor or a bad camshaft position sensor.

Nov 17, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

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2003 dodge Intrepid 2.7l oil leak above rear main seal after running 20 minutes


rear main seal usually only leaks when the car is running. though oil will slowy drip off afterwards. now the best way to tell is to remove the heat sheild that covers the flywheel and look at it and at the flywheel . is the oil only on the engine side of the cover or is it inside the cover and on the fly wheel. the rear main seal will leak into the bellhousing and on the fly wheel the oil pan gasket will leak on the front of the heat sheild.

Source:

former chrysler mechanic

May 24, 2014 | 2003 Dodge Intrepid

1 Answer

How do I replace the rear seal on a cadillac cts


YOU NEED TO REMOVE FLYWHEEL REMOVE OIL PAN. REMOVE REAR OIL SEAL HOUSING BOLTS. USING THE PRY POINT LOCATED AT THE EDGE OF THE CRANKSHAFT REAR MAIN SEAL HOUSING SHEAR THE RTV SEALANT. REMOVE THE REAR MAIN OIL SEAL. INSTALL GUIDE PINS INTO THE TWO CRANK SHAFT REAR OIL SEAL HOUSING CORNER BOLT HOLES OF THE ENGINE BLOCK.INSTALL THE CRANKSHAFT REAR SEAL INSTALLING TOOL ONTO THE REAR OF THE CRANKSHAFT FLANGE. APPLY A 0.2 INCH 3MM BEAD OF SILICONE SEALANT TO THE REAR OIL SEAL HOUSING . INSTALL THE REAR HOUSING TO THE ENGINE BLOCK.REMOVE THE GUIDE PINS AND INSTALL THE HOUSING BOLTS TIGHTEN THE BOLTS TO 89 INCH LBS. REMOVE THE REAR SEAL INSTALLATION TOOL FROM THE CRANKSHAFT FLANGE.THEN INSTALL OIL PAN AND FLYWHEEL.

Sep 10, 2011 | 2008 Cadillac Cts

1 Answer

I need to know if i remove flywheel or ac compressor to remove oil pan


procedure is pasted below. Yes, you have to take the compressor loose if you have the 2.4 liter engine. You should never have to remove the flywheel to get the pan off, but you do have to pull the cover off the flywheel. Please let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

2.2L Engine
See Figure 1
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Drain the crankcase. Raise and support the front of the vehicle.
  3. Unfasten the exhaust shield and disconnect the exhaust pipe at the manifold.
  4. Remove the starter motor and position it out of the way.
  5. Remove the flywheel cover.
  6. On care equipped with automatic transaxle, remove the oil filter and extension.
  7. Unfasten the oil pan bolts and remove the oil pan.


jturcotte_2045.gif

Fig. Fig. 1: Oil pan installation-1995 2.2L OHV engine shown

To install:

  1. Prior to oil pan installation, check that the sealing surfaces on the pan, cylinder block and front cover are clean and free of oil. If installing the old pan, be sure that all old RTV hae been removed.
  2. Apply a 1 / 8 in. (3mm) bead of RTV sealant to the oil pan sealing surface. Use a new oil pan rear seal and apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the ends of the gasket down to the ears and install the pan in place.
  3. Tighten the oil pan retaining bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  4. On care equipped with an automatic transaxle, replace the oil filter adapter seal and replace the oil filter adapter.
  5. Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal.

2.3L and 2.4L Engines
See Figures 2 and 3
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  2. Properly drain the engine oil and the cooling system into suitable containers.
  3. Remove the flywheel housing or transaxle converter cover, as applicable.
  4. Remove the right front wheel and tire assembly, then remove the right splash shield.
  5. Remove the serpentine drive belt.
  6. Unfasten the A/C compressor lower retaining bolts.
  7. Remove the transaxle-to-engine brace.
  8. Disconnect the engine mount strut bracket.
  9. Unfasten the radiator outlet pipe bolts, then remove the pipes from the oil pan.
  10. Remove the exhaust manifold brace.
  11. Unfasten the oil pan-to-flywheel cover bolt and nut.
  12. Remove the flywheel cover stud for clearance.
  13. Disconnect the radiator outlet pipe from the lower radiator hose and oil pan.
  14. Detach the oil level sensor connector.
  15. Unfasten the oil pan retaining bolts, then remove the pan and gasket. Inspect the gasket for damage. If it'e O.K. you can reuse it. No sealer is necessary.

jturcotte_2046.gif

Fig. Fig. 2: After removing the oil pan, inspect the gasket. If it's not damaged you can reuse it

To install:

  1. Position the gasket, then install the oil pan. Loosely install the retaining bolts.
  2. Place the spacer in its approximate installed location by allow clearance to tighten the pan bolt directly above the spacer. Tighten the oil pan bolts to the specifications given in the accompanying figure.

jturcotte_2047.gif

Fig. Fig. 3: Oil pan tightening specifications-2.3L and 2.4L engines

  1. Position the spacer into its proper position, then install the stud.
  2. Fasten the oil pan-to-transaxle nut.
  3. Attach the oil level sensor connector.
  4. Connect the radiator outlet pipe to the oil pan and fasten with the retaining bolts.
  5. Install the engine mount strut bracket.
  6. Fasten the transaxle-to-engine brace.
  7. Secure the A/C compressor bolts.
  8. Install the serpentine drive belt.
  9. Fasten the right splash shield, then install the wheel and tire assembly.
  10. Install the flywheel housing or transaxle converter cover.
  11. Fill the cooling system and engine crankcase with the correct type of fluids.
  12. Connect the negative battery cable.

Aug 09, 2011 | 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

89 toyota pickup torque specs. for flywheel and clutch bolts 22re 4x4


Thoroughly clean the flywheel bolts. Coat the first 3 or 4 threads of each bolt with sealant. Install the flywheel, aligning the previously made marks. Install the bolts finger-tight.
Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern and in several passes to the correct tightness:
  • 22R/22R-E manual trans-80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm)
  • 14-20 ft-lb for the clutch cover and
  • 50 ft-lb for the transmission mounting bolts.
Since you have the flywheel off, be sure and inspect the rear main seal. Now might be a good time to replace it. Be sure the rear flange of the flywheel is clean before re-install.
Be sure to inspect or, better yet, replace the bronze pilot bushing. I f you don't know how to get it out leave a comment. J


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating and POSITIVE TESTIMONIAL is really appreciated for the FREE answering of your question.

Feb 14, 2011 | 1989 Toyota Pickup SR5

1 Answer

What is the torque spec for the cam bearings on a 1998 dodge stratus with a 2.4 L?


Hi, the spec is 105 in. lbs. I have pasted the entire procedure below from autozone.com.
Thanks for using FixYa.


To install:
  1. Thoroughly clean the camshafts and related parts.
  2. The hydraulic valve lash adjusters are inside the roller camshaft followers. Make sure they are clean, well lubricated with clean engine oil and properly positioned. Install the camshaft followers in their original positions on the hydraulic adjuster and valve stem.
WARNING Make sure NONE of the pistons are at Top Dead Center (TDC) when installing the camshafts.
  1. Lubricate the camshaft bearing journals and camshaft followers with clean engine oil and install the camshafts. Install the right and left camshaft bearing caps No. 2 through No. 5 and right side No. 6. Tighten the M6 fasteners to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm) in the correct sequence.


jturcotte_759.gif

Fig. Fig. 3: Camshaft bearing cap tightening sequence-DOHC engines


jturcotte_760.gif

Fig. Fig. 4: Camshaft bearing cap sealant application-DOHC engines

  1. Apply Mopar® Gasket Maker or equivalent sealer to the No. 1 and left side No. 6 bearing caps. Install the bearing caps and tighten the M8 fasteners to 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm). The end caps must be installed before the seals can be installed.
  2. Install the camshaft end seals.
  3. Reinstall the camshaft sprockets, if removed. Install the timing belt, taking care to make sure all timing marks are properly aligned, using the recommended procedure. Use care. DO NOT allow oil or solvents to contact the timing belt, as they can deteriorate the rubber and cause tooth skipping.
WARNING Verify that all timing marks are correct. If the timing belt or sprockets are incorrectly installed, engine damage will occur. Take time to make sure all timing marks are correctly aligned.
  1. Install the timing belt covers.
  2. Clean all valve cover sealing surfaces. Make certain the rails are flat.
  3. Install a new valve cover gasket. Apply Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent, at the camshaft cap corners and at the top edge of the 1 / 2 round seal.
Inspect the spark plug well seals for cracking and/or swelling, and replace if necessary.
  1. Install the valve cover assembly to the cylinder head and tighten the fasteners in sequence, using the following 3 steps:
    1. First: tighten all valve cover fasteners to 40 inch lbs. (4.5 Nm).
    2. Second: tighten all fasteners to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
    3. Third: tighten all fasteners to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm).

  2. Install the ignition coil pack and connect the spark plug wiring to the correct spark plugs. Tighten the coil pack retaining fasteners to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
  3. Reconnect the engine ground strap.
  4. Check to be sure all vacuum lines and remaining wiring have been reconnected.
  5. An oil and filter change is recommended.
  6. Reconnect the negative battery cable and test run vehicle. Check for leaks and for proper operation.

Jan 07, 2011 | Dodge Stratus Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Rear barring an seal replaced


I'm not sure if this is the right part of your car but, are you talking about the rear seal on the engine for the crankshaft?

If so:

Rear Main Oil Seal REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Rear main seal installation for the 2.3L and 2.5L engines 85553306.gif
Fig. 2: Removing the rear main seal 85553307.gif
Fig. 3: Installing the rear main seal on the 2.9L engines 85553308.gif
If the crankshaft rear oil seal replacement is the only operation being performed, it can be done in the vehicle as detailed in the following procedure. If the oil seal is being replaced in conjunction with a rear main bearing replacement, the engine must be removed from the vehicle and installed on a work stand.
  1. Remove the starter.
  2. Remove the transmission from the vehicle, following the procedures in Section 7.
  3. On a manual shift transmission, remove the pressure plate and cover assembly and the clutch disc following the procedure in Section 7.
  4. Remove the flywheel attaching bolts and remove the flywheel and engine rear cover plate.
  5. Use an awl to punch two holes in the crankshaft rear oil seal. Punch the holes on opposite sides of the crankshaft and just above the bearing cap to cylinder block split line. Install a sheet metal screw in each hole. Use two large screwdrivers or small pry bars and pry against both screws at the same time to remove the crankshaft rear oil seal. It may be necessary to place small blocks of wood against the cylinder block to provide a fulcrum point for the pry bars. Use caution throughout this procedure to avoid scratching or otherwise damaging the crankshaft oil seal surface. To install:
  6. Clean the oil seal recess in the cylinder block and main bearing cap.
  7. Clean, inspect and polish the rear oil seal rubbing surface on the crankshaft. Coat a new oil seal and the crankshaft with a light film of engine oil. Start the seal in the recess with the seal lip facing forward and install it with a seal driver. Keep the tool, T82L-6701-A (4-cyl. engines) or T72C-6165 (6-cyl. engine) straight with the centerline of the crankshaft and install the seal until the tool contacts the cylinder block surface. Remove the tool and inspect the seal to be sure it was not damaged during installation.
  8. Install the engine rear cover plate. Position the flywheel on the crankshaft flange. Coat the threads of the flywheel attaching bolts with oil-resistant sealer and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts in sequence across from each other to the specifications listed in the torque chart in this section.
  9. On a manual shift transmission, install the clutch disc and the pressure plate assembly following the procedure in Section 7.
  10. Install the transmission, following the procedure in Section 7.
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Oct 07, 2010 | 1994 Ford Explorer Limited

1 Answer

I have a 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix, it is supercharged 3800. I have about 115,000 miles on it and I change the oil every 3,000 miles, check fluids, regular preventative maintenance, etc. I noticed a small...


If it's oil, it's coming from the rear main seal.. I would go with this idea.

The seal doesn't cost much but the labor to get to it does.

To give you an idea what is involved the procedure is illustrated below from the service manual:

Removal & Installation 3.8L Engine To Remove:
  1. Drain the engine coolant.
  2. Drain the engine oil.
  3. Remove the oil pan.
  4. Remove the engine flywheel.
  5. Remove the rear oil seal housing and gasket. Rear seal removal 3.8L gm-03-38-1175.gif

  6. Remove the rear main seal by placing the housing face down on 2 blocks of wood. Using a drift tool and hammer tap the seal out of the housing.
To Install:
NOTE: Do not lubricate the rear main oil seal or the installation tool. Do not touch the sealing lip of the rear main seal once the protective sleeve is removed.
NOTE: Use a clean lint free cloth to clean the crankshaft sealing surface. Remove sharp edges or burrs that could damage the rear main oil seal. Remove burrs or sharp edges with a crocus cloth.
  1. Carefully remove the rear oil seal from the protective sleeve.
  2. Install the oil seal onto the seal driver EN-47623 or equivalent by placing the seal at an angle and twisting until it is fully seated.
  3. Install the seal into the housing using the seal driver EN-47623 or equivalent and driver handle J-8092 or equivalent. Apply downward force until the seal is seated. NOTE: Ensure that the housing gasket is installed correctly and that the oil passages are not blocked.
  4. Using a new gasket Install the rear oil seal housing on the engine being careful not damage the rear main seal. NOTE: The plastic inserts are used in production and are not needed for assembly.
  5. Hand tighten the bolts. Rear seal housing alignment 3.8L gm-03-38-1176.gif

  6. Place a straight edge on the crankshaft rear oil seal housing flange and the engine block oil pan flange. Using a feeler gauge check that there is no more than .0004 in (0.10 mm) step on each side. Rotate the housing to make the steps equal on both sides.
  7. Tighten the housing bolts 11 ft-lb (15 Nm) plus an additional 50 degrees.
  8. Ensure that the housing did not move out of specification. Repeat step 6 if the oil seal housing is not within the specified range. Replace the rear oil seal housing if the specified measurement can not be reached.
  9. Install the flywheel.
  10. Install the oil pan.
  11. Fill the engine oil and the cooling system.
  12. Check for leaks
5.3L Engine To Remove:
  1. Remove the flywheel from the crankshaft.
  2. Remove and discard the crankshaft rear oil seal from the rear cover.
To Install:
  1. Use clean engine oil to lubricate the outside diameter of the crankshaft rear oil seal and rear cover oil seal bore.
  2. Install the tapered cone and bolts of a J 41479 or equivalent crankshaft rear oil seal installer onto the crankshaft.
  3. Place the crankshaft rear oil seal onto the tapered cone.
  4. Install the threaded rod of the J 41479 crankshaft rear oil seal installer into the tapered cone. Rear main seal installer 5.3L gm-03-53-3872.gif

  5. Install the crankshaft rear oil seal by turning the handle of the J 41479 clockwise.
  6. Remove the J 41479 crankshaft rear oil seal installer from the crankshaft.
  7. Install the flywheel onto the crankshaft.
prev.gif next.gif--- I'm not sure what the exact cost would be as the hours were not listed for this procedure on my online resource.

Sep 02, 2010 | 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix

1 Answer

My 1994 camaro w/ 3.4L engine has an oil leak in rear of engine. It is running down both sides of the block in rear. Oil filter is wet, but not leaking, the starter and bell housing drip oil and its...


This is most likely a leak from your rear main seal. It happens and can be a pain to replace if you're a DYI kinda person without the nec. equipment.
  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands.
  2. Remove the transmission.
  3. If equipped with a manual transmission, remove the clutch and pressure plate.
  4. Remove the flywheel assembly.
  5. Using a suitable prytool, carefully pry the old seal out.
6. Inspect the crankshaft for nicks or burrs, correct as required.
88143g59.gif Crankshaft rear main seal - 5.7L engine

To install:
  1. Clean the area and coat the seal with engine oil. Install the seal onto tool J-34686 for 3.4L engines, J 41349 for 3.8L engines or J 35621 for 5.7L engines.
  2. Install the tool (with the seal mounted to it) onto the rear of the crankshaft. Tighten the screws snugly to be sure the seal will be installed squarely over the crankshaft.
88143g60.gif Exploded view of the rear main seal installation - 3.4L engine
Click to Enlarge

  1. Tighten the wing nut on the installation tool until it bottoms out.
  2. Remove the tool from the crankshaft or rear oil seal housing, as applicable.
88143g61.gif Rear main seal and installation tool - 3.8L engine
Click to Enlarge
88143g62.gif After position the seal on the tool, install it to the crankshaft housing

  1. Install the flywheel.
  2. If equipped with a manual transmission, install the clutch and pressure plate.
  3. Install the transmission.
  4. Check the fluid levels, start the engine and check for leaks.

Dec 30, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet Camaro

1 Answer

Timing belt timing marks, 1997 ford escort where are they?


Ford Escort/Tracer 1991-1999 Repair Guide

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1.8L Engine

(see Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4)
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the timing belt covers.
  3. Rotate the crankshaft and align the timing marks located on the camshaft pulleys and the seal plate.
  4. Remove the crankshaft pulley and hub.
  5. If the timing belt is to be reused, mark an arrow on the belt to indicate its rotational direction to enable correct re-installation.
  6. Loosen the timing belt tensioner lockbolt and remove the timing belt.
To install:
  1. Temporarily secure the timing belt tensioner in the far left position with the spring fully extended, then tighten the lockbolt.
  2. Make sure the timing marks on the timing belt pulley (crankshaft sprocket) and the engine block (oil pump housing) are aligned.
  3. Make sure the timing marks on the camshaft pulleys and the seal plate are aligned.
  4. Install the timing belt.
  5. Loosen the tensioner lockbolt. Using a suitable prying tool, position the timing belt tensioner so the timing belt is taut, then tighten the tensioner lockbolt.
  6. Turn the crankshaft two turns clockwise and align the timing belt pulley mark with the mark on the engine block.

fbe49f2.jpg
Fig. 1: Timing marks are located on the camshaft pulleys as shown-1.8L engines

5bb74d0.jpg

Fig. 2: Make sure that the crankshaft sprocket (timing belt pulley) and oil pump timing marks are aligned-1.8L engines

9cafc26.jpg

Fig. 3: Align the timing belt pulley mark with the tension set mark, at approximately the 10 o'clock position-1.8L engines

72dc9cd.jpg
Fig. 4: Check the timing belt deflection at the location shown-1.8L engines

  1. Make sure the camshaft pulley marks are aligned with the seal plate marks.
If the timing marks are not aligned, remove the belt and repeat the procedure.


I hope help you with this; remember rated this help. Good luck.

Sep 11, 2009 | 1997 Ford Escort

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