Question about 1993 Ford Econoline

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Purchase used/aged 1993 E-150 Mark III Conv. Van with a few components disconnected/modified.

After flushing cooling system and adding new coolant. Noticed 5/8" hose cut off and uncapped coming from rear driver side along chasis. Can't determine where it leads to at engine or engine compartment. Assume part of rear Heater/AC control box under chasis drivers side. I initially thougth this box component was just a fan motor for rear compartment, but it has 3-hoses coming out: the cutoff one and two leading to AC connections in engine compartment. Think I need a cooling system schematic or picture.

Posted by Anonymous on


6 Suggested Answers

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 405 Answers

SOURCE: 88 Bronco ii Coolant not circulating

Good Day,

Sounds like the thermostat is working properly, the only other cause for the valve/lifter noise could be the oil pump is not pumping enough oil up to the top of the motor. I suggest doing an oil change(if you haven'y aleready), be sure to flush several quarts through, after sitting for 5 years I'm sure the old oil is pretty sludgy, this well help rule out this possibilty. As far as the water pump goes, It either works or doesn't typically when they are on there way out the will leak from the gaskets. A bad head gasket would cause white smoke form the exhaust as coolant get's into the oil and is burned off, so I don;t hink this is the problem.

Here's a start for you, hope this helps and good luck

Posted on Jul 01, 2008

  • 78015 Answers

SOURCE: coolant fill procedure

You may have air trapped in the system or rust plugging up the rear heater core. core, if it is just an air problem do this: Fill the radiator and the coolant recovery tank as full as possible, then raise the front of van as high as you can with a floor jack, run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature, let it cool down, running water over the radiator speeds this up, this should purge the air out of te system and cure your issue with the rear heater. Make sure you have a good radiator cap if it is the original one replace it. If the system still has no flow to the rear pull out the rear heater core and flush it out or replace it.

Posted on Sep 10, 2008

  • 21 Answers

SOURCE: coolant leak on 99 Ford Taurus

I to have the same problem with the coolant leak in my 99 Ford Taurus. We have tried putting coolant in about 3 or 4 times only to have it leak out. The last thing we tried was to have some dye installed to try and find the leak with no success. My leak was not discovered until it was too late. The transmission cooling part of the radiator got a leak. It allowed coolant to get into the transmission. I was pulling away from a stop light and blew the sun gear apart in the tranny. In short, check tranny fluid. If it is milky, change the tranny fluid and get a new radiator before it's too late. Wound up costing me $2000 for a tranny. Good luck.

Posted on Oct 11, 2008

  • 6927 Answers

SOURCE: Engine Cooling problem 999 Ford Taurus 6 cyl

have u bled the cooling system ?warm the car and cut the car off right before the fans come on ,let sit for 30-35 minutes,see if the coolant drops in res. if so repeat process untill coolant stops droping ,then drive car regularly if overheating stops ,but monitor it because it will drop somemore/there has been reports of new and rebuilt water pumps nt having correct propelar mounted on them/ backwards etc. if this helps let me know

Posted on Jun 29, 2009

  • 2359 Answers

SOURCE: Ford Modeo 2003 Duratec HE

Did you come across the recall from Ford?

There is a major defect from the design of a plastic butterfly valve on the intake manifold.1.8 and 2.0 Liter 4 cylinder petrol engine.
Do you has a V6 2,5 Liter engine or the questionable 1.8 and 2.0 liter 4 cyc motor?
Please email me the exact engine on your Mk3 so I can pinpoint the exact problem.
Here is the full detail from Wiki page HERE
Reference Wiki Engines

For the Mk3, the Zetec engine was dropped, while the all-new 1.8 and 2.0 L Duratec engines were introduced. The standard 2.5 L V6 engine was carried over, while a 3.0 L version was developed for the ST220 model.

Unfortunately, there was a design flaw with the new 1.8 and 2.0 L petrol units with the butterfly valves in the inlet manifold, which could cause severe engine damage when they failed. The plastic components of the butterfly valves wear out too quickly and when loose enough can result in them falling apart and releasing metal and plastic parts into the engine cylinders, potentially causing severe engine damage. The part was uprated by Ford in late 2002 to early 2003 and this prevented the problem from occurring in later engines.[12]

The archaic Endura-E 1.8 L turbodiesel engine was dropped, and replaced by a more sophisticated 2.0 L 16v Duratorq common rail (TDCi) unit with a variable geometry turbine. This clever turbine system allows a certain amount of overboost, giving an extra 10% or so of torque for short periods. This engine, known within Ford as the "Puma"-type Duratorq, was first seen in the Transit in detuned form.

A new automatic transmission was added to the range called the Durashift. This unit has five gears and may be shifted manually or shifted like an automatic.

If it's a 4 cyc engine then PLEASE STOP driving the Modeo.
Take the VIN # and call the Ford dealer ASAP.

Please email the engine type so I can follow up on this case.

Posted on Jan 27, 2011

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I have a ford 1999 mark iii conv. Van..the inside lights quit working..back speakers

You will need to look for the auxiliary fuse panel that was added when the conversion was done. This is not a factory application so you might need to find someone familiar with conversion vans or possibly an audio shop.

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Cooling system maintainence

Now that the winter season is on us you should have had your cooling system tested and replaced if necessary.
Your engines coolant never looses if effectiveness for keeping the system from freezing but it does loose its ability to neutralize the acids that are created from every day operation.
These acids if left unchecked with old worn out antifreeze will begin to corrode radiators, heater core, hoses and engine component such as freeze plugs, head gaskets, intakes gaskets and water pumps. None of these effects will be notice immediately, but over time you will begin to develop leaks and other cooling system component failures.
With the addition of the "new" extended life coolants, automotive manufacturers had realized they would not be able to offer extended warranties of 50k to 100K without this new coolant, therefore it was necessary to develop these high performance coolants.
As a rule of "thumb" if you have an older vehicle with green coolant, the cooling system should be flushed and replaced every 2 years.
If you have a newer vehicle with the extended life coolant, I would recommend a system flush and replacement every 5 years.
If you follow these guide lines you will be able to enjoy a trouble free winter season with no unnecessary cooling system failures.
As a side note, don't neglect and forget to change the thermostat with every flush and fill.
Good luck and happy motoring.........

on Dec 08, 2009 | Acura Integra Cars & Trucks

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I have a 1992 Chevy G20 Mark 3 van heat trouble please can someone help me

Have you checked your radiator cap maybe its not building pressure.

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Flushing Cooling System. Am replacing thermostat and possibly water pump on my van. It currently uses DexCool coolant. Two questions: (1) procedure for complete flushing of cooling system?, (2) should I...

No matter what anyone says, Do NOT use conventional coolant. This system was designed for DexCool. As long as you don't run the engine while low on coolant, DexCool is still the best option. To do a complete flush you'll have to tap into the heater hoses...not that easy.

Nov 12, 2017 | 2003 Pontiac Montana

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My xj runs well at speed, but when idling in traffic, the idle speed races and the engine temperature rises.

Check your cooling system - ESPECIALLY if you are driving a 4.0 L6...
Your engine's life is in the cooling system. If this engine overheats, you will crack the head or worst.
I would suggest (if you are mechanically inclined) that you check your coolant level - if you have added any recently, you have a problem.
Check the radiator for leaks, rusty spots, etc. I would also suggest that you open the draincock for the radiator (with a hose attached) and check the condition of the coolant. IF nothing comes out or anything other than green coolant comes out - you will need to flush the cooling system, and replace the coolant.
Now, it if was mine...(I own a 1993 ZJ, and previously owned a 1990 XJ)
I would purchase a new radiator - I bought my last one at 1-800 Radiator for the ZJ - it was $130 dollars with tax. New 192 degree Thermostat from NAPA or other reputable parts house. And the $4 thermostat gasket from the Jeep Dealer. The gasket is Daimler-Benz designed, and prevents galvanic corrosion (aka "my thermostat house was eaten by zombies"). This is the only gasket available that prevents this, and is worth the trip to the dealer.
Disconnect the battery, flush the cooling system, and drain. Replace the radiator with your new one, remove the thermostat housing, CLEAN everything and blow out with air, replace thermostat, Check all your hoses (inside of hose, more than the outside), and replace as needed. I would probably replace all of them at this point, but...
Refill with 50/50 Coolant/Distilled Water, and you should be good.
Now, what the H*^& does the idle have to do with speed racing and engine temp???
Jeeps, especially in the past twenty years, have used lower fuel/higher air ratios to reach fuel economy and emission goals. These cause higher engine temperature. IF the cooling system is great, not a problem. But if a problem exist with the cooling system, all that extra heat causes higher idle (due to premature ignition of fuel/air) and higher temperature (due to lack of cooling ability).
Hope this helps...

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I have 260K on my 2004 2.7 santa fe. A little steam escapes from the top of the radiator when it is up to temp. It has never overheated (yet), but I am worried that I need a new radiator. I have never...

Well i suggest to never use stop leak because it will clog up cooling ports not only in the radiator but the engine also. I would flush the whole system you can purchase a flush kit at a local parts store. it is usually a cleaner that you run threw the system let the engine get up to temp for a while then drain everything after it cools down and take the thermostat out of the system usually i will leave the hose disconnected at the thermostat instead and stick a water hose in the radiator turn on and let it flush sometimes you have to start your vehicle but make sure you don't over heat it. If you can tell that there is a crack in the radiator i would replace it stop leak in my line of work is a no no it causes more issues that solves. If you have any more questions pleas let me know and leave good feedback please.

Jun 23, 2011 | Hyundai Santa Fe Cars & Trucks

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Van produces no heat from the heater, engine heats up when driven short distances. Thermostat was replaced, still no heat. coolant level is fine.

Two things are possible. Air in the cooling system, or the system needs to be flushed. You didn't say what year your van is, but I'm sure it use dexcool antifreeze. Dexcool is the orange antifreeze recommended by GM for all their vehicles. The problem is that dex cool attacks gaskets causing gasket failures, especially the intake gaskets. It also can cause buildup in the cooling system causing overheating, or plugging up heater cores. We'll try the easy solution first.We need to get the air out of the system. First, the radiator needs to be higher than the engine. If it isn't, either use drive on ramps or raise the front end with a jack, Remove the radiator cap, put the heater controls on hottest setting, start the engine and let it run. When the coolant gets hot enough, the thermostat should open allowing the coolant to circulate. When it opens, the coolant level will drop in the radiator. Add antifreeze to make it full again. The coolant will drop again and may do so several times. Just keep adding antifreeze each time. continue to do this until the coolant level stabilizes. If the thermostat closes momentarily it will cause coolant to overflow. Not to worry, wait til it opens again and top off the antifreeze. Put the cap back on the radiator and check the heater for heat. If it' still not warm, you may have to flush the radiator.

Jan 05, 2011 | Pontiac Montana Cars & Trucks

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How to Flushing radiator coolant

Hi, first you should get a drain pan to catch the draining coolant, then purchase either premixed coolant or straight coolant and cut it in half with water. then it is usually easiest to take off the lower radiator hose from the radiator and allow all of the coolant to drain out (but make sure that the engine is cool so you do not get scalded). then put the radiator hose back on and remove the radiator cap and start pouring in the new coolant. when it gets to the top of the radiator you can start the car and let it start warming up. be sure you still have the drain pan under the car because you will most likely have some spillage. when the car warms up to operating temperature you will need to keep gradually adding coolant as the air exits the system. This may take a half an hour or so. also make sure that you fill the overflow tank to the cold mark so you do not get any air back into the system. good luck

May 22, 2010 | 2000 Daewoo Lanos

1 Answer

How to change radiator 1998 oldmobile intrigue

Hope this helps you. Here are the basics. There are many problems you may run up against (frozen bolts, stubborn or cracked hoses, rusted clamps, etc)that may need to be fixed or replaced before proceeding: SHut off engine, allow to cool completely. Disconnect the cooling fan, remove negative battery terminal connection. Drain radiator by opening draincock and/or removing lower radiator hose, collecting coolant in a drain pan. Do not let it go onto the ground - bad for environment! Open top radiator hose to allow remainder of coolant to flow out. A few quarts of coolant will remain in the engine block. You will want to totally flush and refill AFTER replacing the radiator to get all the crud out of the system. Unbolt radiator and disconnect any other items still attached (transmission cooler, temp sensor wires, etc.). Remove radiator and replace with new, reattaching all items removed from old radiator. Inspect other items and possibly replace suspects. Reattach hoses and make sure the clamps are tightened without pinching hoses excessively. Do a flush job with water/radiator flush, making sure the water runs clear out the draincock. Instructions for flushing the cooling system are usually printed on the radiator flush bottle. Be sure the heater is on and the engine warms up completely to open the thermostat. SHut off engine and drain as much water as will leave. Fill with 50% coolant mix (Dexcool or equivalent). Estimate water remaining in the engine and add 100% coolant to balance. COmplete fill with 50% mix. Remove air by running engine until warmed with the radiator cap off, adding coolant mix along the way.

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Re: Dex-Cool in 1999 Lumina

The major reason for using dex-cool is that antifreeze is often neglected as a service item. If neglected, it becomes acidic over time which is particularly important with the use of aluminium in most major components which are served by antifreeze. Acid causes etching and premature failure of gaskets and permanent damage to blocks, heads and especially the radiator and heater core, which are not vert thick to begin with.
Since "normal" antifreeze acidifies faster than does dex-cool, mixing both together causes a change in breakdown rate...the more "normal" coolant added, the faster it breaks down.
Both coolants do not react chemically with each other and therefore retain the same ability to prevent boil over and freezing.
In reality, normal coolant can be used with little or no effect on components, provided that you change it every year. (that's where the EPA gets involved) They do not want people dumping this stuff into the ground, so they push for extended service intervals. Since dex cool has a longer service life, that's what they want you to use.
As far as how you chasnge the coolant, it is always a good idea to flush system during a change, regardless of antifreeze type. This removes solid particles which can plug radiator core. Radiators are much smaller than their older counterparts. Loss of even a small portion of cooling area can cause overheating. Engine running temps are also higher than older vehicles (heat=power output). Therefore most systems have a much smaller margin of error than before. What I find though is that regular flushing can also be bad for the system as the chems eat away at metal components in order to clean. I recommend regualr or dex cool antifreeze systems be flushed with water only, once a year, but retaining what you removed and filtering it through a coffee filter, using it during the year to "top off" the system. To retain effectiveness of coolant, use a hydrometer to check concentration, adding new coolant to bring reading to proper protection level.Then, every three years, do a complete chem flush and change entire batch. This keeps your system clean and the epa happy!

Dec 17, 2008 | 1999 Chevrolet Lumina

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