Question about Cars & Trucks
Your car is aging fast. Losing so many functions, it needs attention to the starting circuit, ignition circuit (probably the cause of the shut down, certainly electrical at least-check if the fuel pump still turns on), but you are right, the grinding noise should come first. It could be internal damage, and you are stopped right there from spending money on other parts.
Use some sturdy blocks if it comes to that. First crank the engine over by hand a few revolutions with a 1/2 inch ratchet and socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt. Check if the engine is free spinning, and listen for any odd noise. If good so far, I would recommend just getting the starter to spin the engine over. You have to fix the start circuit to proceed. Check the battery for good charge, check and clean all connections from battery to starter, battery to ground. To check if starter is good, try jumping the starter solenoid post to the battery cable-to-starter post, there on the starter. Make sure key is off, and car is in park or neutral and handbrake on. If the starter works and spins the engine over, you have verified that the starter is good, problem is in the ignition switch to starter solenoid wire or that part of the circuit. When you get that mastered, then you can start checking for spark. The fun never ends. Good luck.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
sounds to me that you have an igniton problem not a starter problem and or if you have or had an alarm system could be cause if u do give me feedback and i will explain but seems that your starter is fine from what u say but if you think in terms of the elemts to start a vehicle batery gives pwoer to ignition which sends to starter which gives spark etc i would check you ignition system something is causeing a short and not alowing starter to function
Posted on Feb 10, 2009
SOURCE: Turn key, nothing happens
It could be the park/neutral switch, next time it doesn't start try wiggling the shifter in park while turning the key, or shift to neutral and see if that will work. if that doesn't change the problem I would replace the ignition switch.
Posted on Mar 20, 2009
As you've stated driving around town it's fine, and everything is working well. For the symptoms, there are 2 possible causes:
1. Your cooling fans are not working.
2. Your radiator needs to be replaced.
I'm sure you can determine which it is, and I wish you luck on your repair.
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
The only real way of checking for warpage on any head is by using a bar that extends from corner to corner on the head. The bar must be certified as straight (you can actually buy one from a tool dealer) since you likely will have little use for it, you can also have a good machine shop check that. Additionally, you should have had the heads magnafluxed (crack checked). The deck on the block should also be carefully examined and cleaned.
You are on the right track if you are going to do another hydrocarbon test. That will verify if you are getting a proper seal at the head gaskets or have any other seal problems (like cracks).
It seems as if you have done a very careful job and I know you don't want to take it apart again. The things you mentioned though do appear to point to exhaust driving coolant from the engine.
You can check the actual antifreeze mix with a simple ball type hydrometer. Anything except 50/50 will change the boil point of the mixture in a direction that isn't good. One thing I'd check is that you may still have an air pocket in the system somewhere. Make sure when filling that the heater is on high heat. One trick for getting the T stat to open without an air bind is to turn the engine off as soon as the temp approaches the opening point (195 (f)) then re-starting it in about three to five minutes, the engine temp will continue to rise during the time it is off but there will be no flow, allowing air to escape without fighting the coolant flow. Once re-started, add coolant slowly so the stat does not close again but add just fast enough so it does not overheat. One other item...If you need to take it apart again, don't use any kind of steel shim gaskets for the heads. Though a composite gasket will many times lower compression a bit, they also seal better. I use fel pro blue gaskets in everything. Unless I was careless or something got by me (not often) I never had a problem with any engine I ever built or repaired. The only application where I did not use them was in fuel engines where they were "o" ringed with stainless wire and used solid copper gaskets. (way different than a street engine!!!)
Have that hydrocarbon test done ASAP. No sense messing with it 'till you have that squared away!
Posted on Jul 11, 2010
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