Question about Cars & Trucks
When the battery is removed from the system there is a possibility of program corruption in the CPU . After battery work it is always a good idea to reset the CPU with a code reader. Try that first and then read for any fault codes and go from there.
Posted on Feb 16, 2014
Sounds like your car is in the limp home mode. When the computer in your car fails it goes into a limp home mode that lets you drive it home at a slow speed. Sounds like when you changed the battery you may have damaged the computer. Take it to the dealer to have it checked out.
Posted on Feb 16, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had an issue where the ABS and ESC lights would go on and wouldn't turn off unless I restarted the car (sometimes they would light up again even if I had restarted). This was because the speed sensor was broken on my back tire. After the dealership replaced it, (under the 36,000 mile warranty) all was good and I have yet to see the lights come back on.
Issue: ABS & ESC would not turn off
Solution: Replaced broken speed sensor on tire
Posted on Oct 08, 2008
SOURCE: 2003 Toyota Sequoia 4WD
i have a 2003 sequoia ltd and i can tell you that the virtual traction control lights will come on after ignition and remain on as a result of anything that has affected your vehicle operation. from sensors to seals, the computer is designed to shut down the traction control if it has determined that any part of the engine/mechanical systems has malfunctioned. first it was the abs had to be reset after i slammed my brakes on. next i needed a new fuel/oxygen sensor, the passenger primary, and after having fixed both the traction control operates properly, lights go off after ignition and stay off. i think the vehicle operates more driver friendly when its off, because it doesn't go off every time one of the wheels slips. i expect it will happen next time something else malfunctions, its toyotas way of annoying you into their service shop. go to a tune-up shop, (minitune) instead they'll tell you whats wrong and it'll be cheaper.
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
SOURCE: grinding noise while driving.
a) a brake disc shield is too close to the disc, and it's coming into contact in the circumstances you outline
b) pebbles stuck between the disc shield and the disk
c) dried out wheel bearings
d) worn Universal Joints in the drive shafts
e) worn A/C pump
f) worn alternator
g) worn water pump
Is the noise still present above 15 miles an hour and past 1500 rpm when the clutch is disengaged (i.e. gearbox in neutral?). The answer to this question may help you to pinpoint the source. I know it's stating the obvious but the fact that you're hearing a grinding sound means it's caused by something that is moving relative to something else. Again this should help narrow down the cause.
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
SOURCE: 2002 Camry won't accelerate
check throttle position sensor wire chewed up, broken wire or unplugged? check with volt meter mesure the voltage @ throttle positon sensor see if there's voltage goes up/down when u apply/release gas.
Posted on Aug 21, 2009
I'm more familiar with Range Rovers and Saab's when it comes to key fobs but if you changed the battery you have to re-program the key fob. If you do not have an owner's manual that can take you through the steps you might want to try: push and hold the lock button on the key fob, put it in the driver's side door and turn to lock. With the button still depressed turn back to open, remove the key and release the button. If this doesn't work check any and all fuses associated with your system and last but not least you could take it to a dealer. Good luck!
Posted on Aug 25, 2009
Testimonial: "thanks ill try what you've suggested"
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