Question about Toyota Cars & Trucks
Behind the 8 ball........?????
How to find reason?
22R-E and 22R-TE engines? or ?
it means there is a short, and the fuse saved the for sure fire.
is fuse 8 in the dash box.?
what is the output side fuse 8 wire color.?
how many amps.?
why is fuse #8 un-named?
Posted on Feb 18, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: The tailgate window on my
Your problem, in order of your trouble-shooting, is either:
- the fuse for the window relay, or
- the window relay, or
- the dash switch, or
- the window motor.
For the fuse - pull out your owner's maniual and locate the page for the fuse-box diagram and find which fuse operates the rear window. Then locate your fuse box and (using that manual diagram) find the fuse and pull it. Check to see if the fuse-link inside it is solid or broken. If broken, then that's your problem and you just need to replace the fuse with the same amp-rating (the amp rating is stamped on top of the fuse. It''ll say "10A" or "15A" or maybe "20A" and be a distinctive color. Just run to the auto store and get that same color. You may even hacve a spae fuse of that type in a storage slot in the fuse box. Toyota does that on many models.
If the fuse link is solid, then re-insert the fuse back into its slot (firmly re-seat it) and try the dash switch again (sometimes the fuse contacts just need to be re-seated). If it still does not work, then move-on to next step; the relay.
To find the rear window relay, you'll need to do a bit of sleuthing. It is complicated, so I will just point you to a pdf file that takes you thru the access to the relay in the tailgate and the fix. It is at:
Posted on Mar 30, 2009
I would check the fuel pump relay under the dash in the passenger side and check the efi relay first. After that i would follow the wires to the fuel pump and the engine harness for any shorts.
Posted on May 10, 2009
If you haven't already done so check fuses and all the obvious stuff first :P
The switch inside the truck and the key switch on the tailgate work from a ground source. That ground can be interrupted by 2 safety switches relating to the tailgate window operation. 1 safety switch is the top removal switch which is depressed when a specific bold that holds the fiberglass top is installed. It is located behind the drivers side trim panel in the cargo area about half way back from the rear seat. When you take that bolt out and take the top off you cant roll the window up. This is however most likely not the problem.
The second switch is actually inside the drivers side tailgate latch. This was the culprit when I had the same problem and seems to be a likely point of failure. First off, remove the switch for the window from the center consol and check the connector for ground on the common contact (usually center but check them all). If there is no continuity to ground then this is a sure sign that one of those safety switches is faulty (assuming no broken wires). You can check the first switch but is most likely a waste of time.
To remove the tailgate latch you first need to get the tailgate open and if your window doesn't work it needs to be rolled down first. Using any small gauge wire attach one end to a ground source and touch the other end to the connector contacts for the window switch you removed. One of the contacts to ground will roll the window down, the other up, and the third will do nothing that you will notice.
After the window is down, lower the tailgate and remove trim panel and everything else necessary to get to the drivers tailgate latch and remove it. It has a 2 wire connector attached to it. After it is removed place a jumper in the 2 wire connector and test your console switch for ground, if it has a ground then that was your problem.
I cant remember if the glass was in the way but if it is you can roll it up with the tailgate down with the jumper method above just have a friend lift the glass as it comes out so it doesn't damage or scratch it and have it braced with a table or something. Don't let the glass out with the tailgate down without helping it, it isn't designed to do so and could damage stuff.
When I pulled the latch and took it apart it was full of mud, I even removed the very tiny switch from it and took the switch apart to clean it. That part was very difficult because the parts were very small and not meant to be pulled apart very easily. The little contact was no larger in daimeter then a #2 pencil lead and only a 1/4" long and spring loaded when you open the switch. I cleaned everything, put it back together and it worked great.
That is until now, 2 years later it started doing the same thing again. I took great lengths in sealing everything to keep mud out and everthing and it only lasted 2 years, oh well. In short, it may be expensive but a new latch assembly might be a good idea. I have to do this job soon myself... again.
I would check for this problem before looking at the relay control because the relay control is a little more difficult to get to.
Posted on Sep 07, 2009
Check the EFI main relay, the circuit opening relay, and the fuel pump relay. Inside the fuel pump relay there is a switch controlled by a coil. During start, the fuel pump gets full power for a couple of seconds to build up pressure. Once pressure is good, the fuel pump relay is supposed to switch (via the coil) the fuel pump to reduced power. If the coil in the relay is bad, the reduced power setting is not available and the fuel pump will run at full power all the time. At this heavy current draw, it won't be long until the EFI fuse blows. This would also give more pressure than is necessary to the cold start fuel injector which runs on a timer. This extra pressure during the time that the cold start injector is operating may be the reason the engine is flooding with fuel.
Posted on Jan 29, 2011
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