Question about Ford Explorer
1992 Ford Explorer XLT 4wd 4.0L (California vehicle) runs good for about 15 minutes, then suddenly starts 'chugging,' loses power, and check engine light comes on. After sitting overnight, it will again run good for about 15 minutes, then repeats the problem. This problem began AFTER smog check test failed (it ran smoothly all the time before) and after, as recommended, I replaced the 02 sensor. (Failure of smog check, it turns out, was more likely because, unknown, a 10" piece of exhaust pipe was missing, so Catalytic Converter was not connected to the tailpipe). I had a mechanic scope the Explorer but he could not determine a specific failure from the codes, although said possibly it's the missing 'Octane Adjust Shorting Bar,' or maybe the 'crank position sensor' is bad, but he could not give a diagnosis. Is anyone familiar with a problem like this?
Have the fault codes read again and get the code numbers so that we can identify if possible the causes for your problem. IN most codes recorded there are a list of possible causes for example if he said possible crank position sensor=== there is also the cam position sensor --wiring --ECM--HO2S sensor --MAF/MAP/VAF sensors that come into the equation
Posted on Feb 15, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the no data error can be contributed to a bad interface cable or the scaqn tool was configured wrong and therfore could not connect to the ecm. I would recommend having a scan done again by a certiefied volkswagon tech chances are the mechanics used the wrong adapter cable or reader card. your smog problem could be that your evap canister is clogged therfore gives a bad reading.unfortunately you have to have a scan done but try an independant small shop that delas exclusively with foreign cars such as porche andd mercedez. the will have the correct scan tool and will be much cheaper than a dealership. your cost should be no more than 50 dollars US ... please rate this. thanks
Posted on Sep 23, 2008
I personally would check the fuel pressure. Then I would go back to the coil. I have seen brand new bad coils out of the box. The symptoms of a loss of power point to this component, especially if the car idles well, but loses power when accelerating. Please do not rate this reply - we all are left to grasp at straws since you have changed pretty much everything. Good Luck. Please post the final fix of the problem.
Posted on Oct 28, 2008
Some vehicles require very specific drive cycles (called "drive traces"
if you perform them on a road simulator or dyno) to activate certain
self-checks like the catalyst and EVAP monitors.
As a general rule, doing some stop-and-go driving around town at speeds
up to about 30 mph followed by five to seven minutes of steady 55 mph
highway speed driving will usually set most or all of the monitors.
Consequently, if you're checking an OBD II system and discover that one
or more of the monitors have not run, it may be necessary to test drive
the vehicle to set the remaining monitors.
You should talk to a good emission tec, if this is not throwing a code, it is hard to say if that one of the components could be bad. O2,pump,convert, HeO2, every part of the emission system.
With a 1000 miles, and doing what is says above just before the test, and ending driving at the test
should be plenty. If it is not, you will have to have each emission part checked, or when the computer
is plugged in it might show a code that did not trip dash light.
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
SOURCE: 2002 Buick Century Code P0420
Sounds as if yoou are actually having a fuel system problem.You need to rreplace the fuel filter and then check the fuel pressure. You should have around 50 psi. If the fuel filter stops up it will cause the exhast to starve for fuel and can damage a catalyst converter. You can get the fuel filter for about 15 dollars at any local parts house.
Posted on Jul 02, 2009
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