Question about 2006 Jeep Liberty
How to, , who can, where to buy? where is.???
why not ask a real question, and not use statement forms???
does both turns sigs and hazzard both fail?
all lamps dead, ? all stuck on, all flashing to fast.
all fuse good?
lost the owners manual ? in glove box , bingo....
gas car? not diesel.
page 349? fuse 11 good, flasher fuse?
fuse 39 is also flasher.
06 liberty GAS engine., size unknown
USA , not export.'
answers from FSM.
THERE IS NO RELAY, SORRY !
the combo head switch does IT ALL.
and is in side the SCM, the steering control module.
the fsm covers the replacment.
but do post symptoms and not guess.
do the hazards work.?
Posted on Feb 17, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2006 jeep liberty
the drain plug is located on the back of oil pan in the center. if you have a rock guard you have to remove this first. the pcv valve(positive crankcase vent is located on either the left valve cover in front or on theif it's a v6 or 8 or it is located on the valve cover in the back in a straight six it will have a hose that goes to your air filter breather box or the breather hose. please rate this...........thanks
Posted on Aug 30, 2008
put the back of car on jack stands and secure the front tires so it does not roll and then remove the bolts off the back of the caliper there is normally two one at top and one at bottom and spray it with some kind of oil for rust and make sure you have the right size socket before you try to loosen them and once caliper is off and the old pads removed take one of the old pads and squeeze the piston on the caliper back in by using a "C" clamp and also remove some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder before you do this put the new ones back on and check the brake fluid and make sure it is full and then pump the brakes to make sure you have a good pedal also put some "No Squeak" brake stop on the back of the pads so they don't squeak they will have that where you buy the pads from
Posted on Mar 01, 2009
Replace rear rotors on 04 liberty.
Remove tire & wheel
Remove brake caliper, tie up out of way.
Back off e-brake shoe adjustment.
Remove factory spring clip from lugs (2places)
This is the crude part....
After attempting to pull off disc/drum with puller....I got pretty sick of it. Understand this is in the Northeast with lots of salt on the roads in winter. Needless to say there is a ridge of rust around the inside edge of the e-brake surface. Any more pressure and I was afraid of damage to the e-brake shoe asembly. I then took a small grinder with a cut off wheel and cut the disc thru (used space where caliper usually sits). Also cut nearly through the face between 2 lugs. You can't quite get thru the back corner at the disc. Since the material is cast iron it will crack when you drive a wedge in the slot cut in the disc. This opens the housing around the shoes and it slides off easily. The cutting operation took less than10 mins, alot less than the puller with hammer assist!
I know this is a bit "unorthodox" to say the least, however the object is to remove the old junk disc safely and as quickly as possible, without harming the e-brake parts inside.
Install new parts in reverse order, new pads go in easy after squeezing the caliper piston back with a c clamp as is the normal procedure.
Posted on Mar 22, 2009
More than likely you have a bad ground. Under the rear of the vehicle, behind the rear bumper there will be a few wires running to a bolt in the frame (left side i think) Check that no wires are loose or boken. Also if you have a trailer wiring harness, check to see if it has not been damaged. Let me know if this helps :)
Posted on Apr 30, 2009
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