Question about Chevrolet Cavalier

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Stalling while driving

For the last 6-8 months I've had problems with my 2004 chevy cavalier. I had the fuel pressure regulator replaced. Also, my car randomly stalls on me when I'm stopped at a light or stop sign. It will start again, sometimes it will be okay right away and other times it will stall 3-4 more times. I took it in the first time it happened and was told a pvc valve was cracked and water was getting into the engine. We have had below freezing temps and they said when the weather warms up it would defrost the water in the line. Well spent $209 on that only to have it happen again 2wks later. Brought it in an was told there was probably some residual water left. They ran diagnostic tests both times. The car has also sputtered and just shut off while I'm driving. The steering wheel locks up and all the lights and everything stay on. Well, it's been 6wks since the last episode and its happened again. The mechanics can't find anything wring with it. They say no codes pop up so they don't know where to even start. They think maybe the catalytic converter may be going bad. I've read numerous Google searches and sites about this being a common problem with Cavaliers, but can't find any solutions. Any ideas??

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  • Chevrolet Master
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Wow, sounds like its time to go to a new shop.
I understand their statement of not knowing where to start looking. When a mechanic can not duplicate the problem in the shop, and there are no trouble codes in the computer, it really is a guessing game for them/us. But what they have come with so far is bogus.
The steering wheel locking up is probably from a lack of power steering assist when the engine stops. Same thing with the warning lights being on.
A faulty catalytic converter will cause the check engine light to come on and either cause a bad exhaust smell or cause the car to lag in speed. Not stop running.
The sputtering and stopping could be electrical or fuel related. And there really are a dozen or more possible causes. So until the problem can be duplicated on demand there's not much you or the shop can do. You are not going to want to spend repair money if they can't promise the expense will fix the problem, and they aren't going to want to warranty the job if they can't be sure its fixed.
One thing you could do to narrow down the causes is to put the car in neutral the next time it feels like it is going to die. And note if the engine is warmed up or still cold when it happens. The more info you can get the better.
One possible cause is a dirty throttle body or idle air control valve.

Posted on Feb 15, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 1999 3.8L V6 Firebird - Cyl 6 misfire, stalls at idle, hard start

look at spark plug 6 see if it is foul out with oil. when you first start you car up and it smokes blue you have leaking valve seals and stop up oil return holes.if all is good .check 6 injector make sure its getting power.

Posted on May 16, 2009

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SOURCE: Stalls when driving or idling

tach sensor on the beelhousing of the trans

Posted on Jun 12, 2009

  • 1071 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 Kia Rio Stalling while slowing down or

check mass air meter and iac motor your machanic should be able to help also tps can cause this

Posted on Jul 23, 2009

  • 691 Answers

SOURCE: 325i BMW, 2003 (Automatic) Fuel Pump/Filter or

your camshaft position sensor may be going bad. usually with an old car it tend to go bad. The top of sensor can be covered or gumed up with grease, oil, dirt and cause it not to detect the flywheel turning. Camshaft sensor send single to your DME to deliver fuel and sparks to you engine. If camshaft sensor goes bad it will seem like your fuel pump and ignition coil is bad even-though they are good. Faulty camshaft sensor may caused you to have this issue and problems such as sometime it run good and all of sudden it shut off, sometime its start good and others time is doesn't start. Once the sensor goes bad, the car will not run. There are two Sensor one for the fuel and one for the sparks, I would replace both sensor because soon or later if it will go bad, it will leave you stranded although if you replace one you might as well replace the other. Check the coil and test using the light or volts tester to see you getting power to the coil, next check if your fuel pump is working, fuel pump will not stay running unless the sensor sense the flywheel is turning from your camshaft sensor. next time when your car does not start, check if you getting spark and fuel. Both sensor will cost you around 130 bucks. assuming your DME, fuel pump, coil, wires, etc... is working. keep me update and I will try to walk you through. btw stop by at any auto part store and pick yourself up Haynes auto repair book for your car, its a great tools and investment to have for your next repair work if you plan to keep your car and get to know the heart of it. good luck and i hope that help some.

Posted on Jul 25, 2009

  • 580 Answers

SOURCE: bmw 325i 2003 stall

Sounds like you have a small bit of dirt or grit in the fuel system when accelerating it is drawn with enough force to cut off the fuel supply then is released when engine at Idle.
1 run liquid fuel line/injector cleaner in 1 tank
2 check fuel lines for debris
3 change fuel filters
4 have fuel tank flushed
here is trouble shooting order less expense to greater.

Posted on Aug 23, 2009

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