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Audi tt starts and runs but after running it and shutting it off it won't start back up it just cranks

So we just recently found out the head gasket was starting to go bad and the fix was $2000 so we decided to use the blue devil head gasket sealant and the car works great and runs awesome as well as no temp spikes. Now after it sits for a while it will start right up and run like a champ but when the car was shut off and went inside and then back out to run it again it wouldn't start back up and just cranked and cranked and then would like sputter at about 200 rpms for a second and then shut off again.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2000 ford diesel will start and run 1 min. and shut off

send me ten dollars and i will be happy to share the solution you SOB.

Posted on May 04, 2009

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SOURCE: 1994 camry 4cyl. was running great. drove it to

have your idle control switch check, easy and inexpensive to replace. The idle control switch is what keep the engine stay idle. also have your throttle body clean by a professional having that many miles, it will give you better gas mileage.

Posted on Dec 23, 2009

timeclock624
  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: Happy holidays,my 89 volvo 240dl starts and runs

It is most likely that you have a hole in your vacuum hoses (check your flame trap too) or your 02 sensor is bad. i would check both. good luck:)

Posted on Dec 04, 2010

  • 1949 Answers

SOURCE: My 2000 ford explorer has been running great shut

check for relay and roll over switch

Posted on Dec 18, 2010

ZJLimited
  • 17970 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 f250 diesel....crank and crank

The first thought that comes to mind is a high pressure oil leak. The injectors have a snap ring on top that sometimes becomes detached and it will create these symptoms.

When you depress the brake it sends a signal to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) and the PCM increases the idle because it predicts you are about to shift into gear. If the truck has a high pressure leak inside the engine it will have a hard time building pressure initially and once the oil warms and thins out the High Pressure Oil Pump cannot hold the pressure and the oil leaks faster because it is thinner.

You may have a leak around the pump area which is under the turbo also. The IPR which is the regulator that controls the oil pressure may also be bad. It is directly under the turbo as well. The IPR is located under the turbo on the High Pressure Oil Pump cover. You stated the seals were leaking on the IPR itself? If the orings are damaged or if the screen in the end of it is collapsed or even punched through with a small hole it will need replaced. Screen damage is usually a sign of debris entering it from either dirt from a previous repair or something is coming apart inside.

Make certain you have clean oil and fuel filters. Yor may want to check fuel pressure as well. It should be somewhere around 55psi on acceleration.

Additionally, I suggest check for voltage at the connector on the fuel pump. The pump is mounted in the filter housing on the frame and the connector is at the front of it. The pink and black wire should have 12 volts with the key on for about 30 seconds. If the pump has voltage but is not running, then your pump has failed. If there is no voltage then check fuse 2.40 in the central junction box. This is the fuse that feeds the inertia switch through the fuel pump relay. I have included a fuse box layout and a wiring diagram (click over images for zoom)...

zjlimited_1990.jpg

zjlimited_1991.jpg

Additionally, will need to scanned the PCM to know if some fault code is stored there.

Keep us updated.

Posted on Oct 08, 2011

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