Question about 1987 GMC Suburban

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Engine cranks over but won't start, backfires n coughs loudly n shut off immediately n i have have to turn the key, again to crank, again

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

mrgreenz
  • 962 Answers

SOURCE: Engine cranks, won't start

That does not sound good. It seems that you may have broken or worn rings or pistons. You could try timing the engine and see if that is not a problem but I think it is a bad piston and rings.

Posted on Nov 14, 2008

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: Cranks, fuel pump is running,

My 1996 4x4 had the same problem. It was my fuel pressure regulator. $800 later...from the dealer and it starts just fine. I suggest that you pay a dealer to just scan it. That is how mine was found.

I hope this helps.

Posted on Feb 03, 2009

  • 105 Answers

SOURCE: Engine will not crank.

check for signal at starter when key is turned signal is the small terminal.no sound doesnt eliminate the starter as the problem if you have no signal chek the clutch safty switch if it fails truck wont start

Posted on Jun 01, 2009

  • 56 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 1998 GMC Jimmy. Cranks, but won`t start.

the battery indicator light usually comes on after a lose of power. Sounds to me like either bad gas, clogged fuel filter or a bad fuel pump. Easiest way to check this is have someone turn the key while you stand at rear side of vehicle and listen for the whinning noise a functioning fuel pump makes as it pressurizes the system.

P.S you dont have to start vehicle to check pump. only requires turning the key to the on position. Good Luck

Posted on Dec 07, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have a 1998 GMC

I had this same problem. A mechanic said it wasn't the switch, but that I needed to replace all kinds of other stuff. I pulled the switch out and discovered that it had literally disintegrated on the inside, and was shorting out the battery (not saving it). I'm referring to the "switch" under the hood, not the push-button on the dash.
You can bypass it by joining the two power connectors together, and ignoring ALL the other wires. I simply used a nut & bolt to join the wires, as it would've required replacing a fusible link to replace the entire cable. I then insulated the connection, to keep it from touching any body ground locations.

Posted on Jan 02, 2011

Testimonial: "Thanks, I followed the suggestion about by passing the "switch" and it worked."

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Automotive electrical problem


Daniel, If battery is known to be good, could be bad connections at battery, starter/solenoid, or ground on engine/frame, battery cables also could be bad with build up of corrosion internally. Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
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88 chevy 2.5l, gets fuel will not start


An engine shut not backfire unless the timing is off, it has a burnt valve or an exhaust restriction. Since the crank sensor was the catalyst for the problem, I would again check it. It definately affects the timing for the fuel and spark

Sep 07, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

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2004 susuki forenza won't start after i put new head and put in time ,ran good for thirty minutes


Old post but , this answer covers all , of this type symptoms.
new head,
ran for 30 minutes
so does it crank ? ok? if not dont crank, it can start.
so crank is next. (first)
backfiring (true to the air cleaner) usually means TIMING IS way off and sure engines can start with timing way off and then stall and flood out.
nothing new there.
you did not time the engine correctly.

get the FSM on engine. read the pages.
or go to alldata.com and read that.
for others searching using google, my lil. contribution;

Jan 27, 2013 | 2004 Suzuki Forenza

1 Answer

I have a 96 pontiac grand am that doesnt start all the time


Starting Problem # 1: Engine Won't Crank At All

Scenario: You turn the key, but nothing happens: And by nothing, we mean there is no dash light, no sound, nada. The first thing you should do in this case is to pop the hood and check the battery. Either the battery is completely dead or there's a wiring problem in the starting system. Try jump-starting the battery. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to call for assistance.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a rapid clicking sound, and the dash lights dim. This is your classic low-battery symptom. Jump-starting the battery should get the engine to start.However, if you keep experiencing this problem, you could have a bad battery or alternator, or it could be some­thing as simple as a loose alternator belt. Take your car to a mechanic just as soon as you can.

Scenario: When you turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but you don't hear anything. Make sure you have the shift selector all the way in park. Move it out of park and then back, or try starting it with the shifter in neutral. If your car has a manual transmission, make sure you have the clutch pressed all the way to the floor. If that doesn't help, you can try jump-starting the battery, but it probably won't work. There's a good chance your car has a bad starter or a problem in the starting circuit. That could mean a prob­lem in the ignition switch, neutral safety switch or starter sole­noid.

Scenario: The dash lights come on when you turn the key, and then go right out, and the engine doesn't crank when you turn the key to start, But, the lights slowly come back on when you release the key. This is another classic: the bad battery connection. When you turn the key to start, the starter pulls so much current that it breaks the connection. Then, when you release the key, the connection slowly comes back. The connection provides enough power to turn the dash lights on, but not enough to crank the starter. Cleaning and tightening the battery terminals may fix this prob­lem.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a single, hard clunk. Turn the headlights on and try again. Do the lights dim slightly when you turn the key? If so, you probably have a bad starter or a seized engine. If the headlights don't dim at all, or just barely dim, there may be a connection problem between the starter solenoid and the starter itself.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a loud, scraping or grinding sound like metal on metal. The starter drive is bad, or the ring gear on the flywheel damaged, or both. You may get the starter to engage if you try turning the key a couple of times, but let go of the key right away if you hear the noise again. If the car does start, you should drive it right over to local repair shop and have the problem fixed.

Starting Problem #2: Engine Cranks but It Won't Start

Scenario: The engine seems to crank normally, but the engine doesn't even sound as if it's trying to start. Is there gas in the tank? Gas gauges are notoriously inaccurate. If you have to move your head to one side to get the needle to move off empty, try adding some gas to the tank.

Scenario: When you first turn the key on, you don't hear the fuel pump run. In cars with electronic fuel injection, you should hear a light hum a few seconds from around the fuel tank. That's the electric fuel pump running. If you don't hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you first turn the key on, try cranking the engine until the oil light goes out. That may start the pump running and allow the engine to start.

Scenario: The engine cranks normally, and it sounds like it wants to start, but it won't. You may have flooded the engine. Hold the gas floor and try again. (Let the gas pedal up when it finally starts). If it's raining out, the ignition system may be wet.

Scenario: The engine cranks unevenly in a repetitive-sounding pattern. You may have a bad timing chain or timing belt. Call a tow truck and have it towed to the repair shop.


Starting Problem # 3: Engine Starts but It Shuts Off

Scenario: The engine starts right up, but shuts off as soon as you release the key. This is the classic symptom of a bad ignition switch. A new switch should fix it.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but when you put the transmission in gear, the car lurches and the engine shuts off. The converter clutch in the transmission torque converter probably is engaging when it shouldn't. On some cars, you can bypass this by disconnecting the torque converter clutch solenoid; but unless you know which wire to pull, forget about it. Call for assistance.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but seems to idle slowly and stalls when you come to a stop. This probably is a fast idle problem. When the engine is cold, it's supposed to idle a little faster than normal to keep the engine running. You may be able to drive using two feet until the engine warms up: one on the gas to hold the idle up a little and the other for the brake. However, don't keep driving it this way. Take your car to your repair shop just as soon as you

Jul 21, 2011 | 1996 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

1989 Park Avenue dying after 60 miles, restart immediately then


sounds like the ignition module but it could be a fuel problem

Jan 10, 2009 | 1989 Buick LeSabre

2 Answers

Engine coughs and sputters, won't start


its sounds like it has jumped time
you might want to check that

Sep 23, 2008 | 1998 Ford Explorer

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