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Pitman arm nut size - 2000 Lincoln Town Car

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Things You'll Need

Adjustable wrench
  • Pitman arm puller
  • Torque wrench
  • Show More
    Instructions

    Park the vehicle on a level surface and make sure the front wheels are pointing straight ahead. Make sure the vehicle is in park (or in gear if you have manual transmission) and set the parking brake.

    Disconnect the pitman arm from the steering box from underneath the front of the vehicle by turning the holding bolt in a counterclockwise direction with an adjustable wrench. Place a pitman arm puller (available at auto parts stores) over the pitman arm and tighten the nut on the puller in a clockwise direction with an adjustable wrench until the pitman arm loosens from the steering box shaft. Remove the pitman arm and the puller.

    Open the hood and loosen the lock nut on top of the steering box from the engine compartment with an adjustable wrench in a counterclockwise direction.

    Place a torque wrench on the steering shaft and turn the wrench one complete turn. Make sure the torque reading is approximately 2 inch pounds. Tighten the adjusting nut on top of the steering box (it comes out of the center of the lock nut) in a clockwise direction with an adjustable wrench one half turn if the torque wrench reading is too low. Loosen the nut in a counterclockwise direction if the reading is too high.

    Rotate the steering shaft with the torque wrench again. Make adjustments to the steering box adjusting nut as described in Step 4, if needed, until the correct reading is obtained on the torque wrench.

    Make sure the steering wheel is in the straight ahead position and reattach the pitman arm to the bottom of the steering shaft on the steering box. Tighten the holding nut in a clockwise direction with an adjustable wrench until the pitman arm seats into place.

    Tighten the lock nut on top of the steering box with an adjustable wrench in a clockwise direction. Close the hood

    Jul 24, 2012 | 1993 Buick LeSabre

    1 Answer

    How to install a pitman arm on a 1984 chevy 4x4 blazer


    It's an easy but physically demanding if you do not have a pneumatic set of tools. The specialty tools you will first have to get your hands on are a Tie Rod remover. otherwise know as a (pickle fork). There are two sizes of these large for ball joint removal and small for Tie rod removal. Looks like a big 2 pronged fork. The next Tool is a Pitman arm remover. Usually you can rent or barrow them from your local auto parts store. Drive your blazer up on to a set of repair ramps. Block the rear tires.The bolt to the center link from the pitman arm has a crown nut on it with a cotter pin going threw it. Remove the cotter pin.and remove the crown nut. Then with the Pickle fork and a 5 lb. sledge hammer. place the pickle fork between the center link and the pitman arm bolt. Give the end of the Pickle fork as many good blows on the other end as it takes for the center link to release from the pitman arm. Once that is done take a break I know you'll need it. Next is the Pitman arm to the steering gear shaft. Hope you can get your hands on a good breaker bar or an impact wrench and a socket large enough for the steering gear shaft nut. Remove the nut. Then place the Pitman arm removal tool between the pitman arm and the steering gear housing. Start tightening the threaded rod the remover up against the shaft. It is hard as hell to remove because pitman arms rarely go bad. It's usually the center link that fails.It will take a lot of strength to remove and you may want to use a little penetrating lube on it. Once you get that off you may want to replace the steering gear shaft seal as well. Otherwise just reverse the removal steps. The shaft is notched and so is the pitman are make sure they line up. then Torque to spec.s If you plan on keeping the blazer get a repair manual from your auto parts store. It will help you put a great deal.

    Jul 24, 2012 | 1994 Chevrolet K1500

    2 Answers

    I need to know do i have to take off or loosen the gear box to replace the pitman arm? about how long of a job is it to change the pitman arm and idler arm?


    Well, a lot has to do with what kind of vehicle we are talking about. For future reference, YEAR, MAKE, MODEL and ENGINE SIZE is required information if you want someone to answer questions for your vehicle....
    On MOST vehicles it is not required to loosen or remove the gear box to replace a pitman arm. On some vehicles this IS required because there is not enough room to use a pitman arm puller with the gearbox in place. So, basicly. if you can get the puller in there, the answer to your question is NO and if there is not enough room for the puller the answer would be YES.

    The idler arm is totally different. Some vehicles have self-locking nuts where the idler arm connects to the center link. Others have "casltle" nuts and cotte pins. The self-locking nuts can be very difficult to remove and ven harder to get back on. The ones with the castle nuts are easier if the cotter pin comes out easy.

    As for how long it takes...again, this is vehicle-specific. Most cars take just under an hour each for the idler arm and pitman arm.

    Apr 17, 2011 | Oldsmobile Bravada Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    STeering wheel is loose and noisy while steering. Sounds like something broke inside.


    This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150 84928067.gif
    Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350 84928070.gif
    Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab 84928071.gif
    Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
    1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
    2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
    3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
    4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
    5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
    6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.
    F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
    1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
    2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
    3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
    4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
    5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
    6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
    7. Connect the drag link.
    Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
    1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
    2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
    3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
    4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
    5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
    6. Have the front end alignment checked.
    RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
    1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
    2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
    3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
    4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
    5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
    6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
    7. Have the front end alignment checked.
    Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
    1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
    2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
    3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
    4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
    5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
    6. Have the front end alignment checked.
    Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud 88288p02.jpg
    Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud 88288p03.jpg
    Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm 88288p04.jpg
    Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end 88288p05.jpg
    Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal 88288p06.jpg
    Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end 88288p07.jpg
    1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
    2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
    3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
    4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
    5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
    6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
    7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
    8. Have the front end alignment checked.
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    Sep 18, 2010 | 1996 Ford F150 Regular Cab

    1 Answer

    Is a special tool required to remove inner tie rod from relay rod on 2001 Tahoe.? Also what should torque be?


    Relay Rod Removal & Installation To Remove:
    1. Raise and support the vehicle
    2. Remove or disconnect the following:
      • Engine protection shield, if equipped
      • Steering damper from the relay rod, if equipped Note: Use the proper tool in order to separate all the tie rods and the ball joints.
        Steering components gm_trk_sub15_steering_components.gif

      • Tie rod ends (F) (See: Tie Rod Ends)
      • Idler arm ball stud nut (J) and discard the nut (See: Idler Arm)
      • Pitman arm nut (H) and discard the nut (See: Pitman Arm) Remove the idler arm from the relay rod gm_trk_sub15_idler_from_relay_rod.gif

      • Relay rod from the idler arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller Remove relay rod from pitman arm ball stud gm_trk_sub15_relay_rod_rem.gif

      • Relay rod from the pitman arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller
      • Relay rod from the vehicle
    3. Inspect the threads on the tie rod ends for damage
    4. Inspect the ball stud threads for damage
    5. Inspect the ball stud seals for excessive damage
    6. Clean the threads on the ball studs
    To Install:
    1. Install or connect the following:
      • Relay rod to the vehicle
      • Relay rod to the pitman arm ball stud
      • Relay rod to the idler arm ball stud and make sure the seal is on the stud
      • New pitman arm prevailing torque nut
      • New idler arm prevailing torque nut and tighten the idler arm and pitman arm nuts; Torque to: 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm)
      • Tie rod ends
      • Steering dampener to the relay rod, if equipped
      • Engine protection shield, if equipped
    2. Lower the vehicle
    3. Check the wheel alignment
    4. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
    prev.gif next.gif

    Sep 18, 2010 | 2001 Chevrolet Tahoe

    1 Answer

    What is the torque specification for the pitman arm on 1998 Chevrolet K1500?


    Pitman shaft nut--- 184 ft. lbs.
    Pitman arm-to-relay rod nut--- 46 ft. lbs.

    May 08, 2010 | 1998 Chevrolet K1500

    1 Answer

    How to change the pittman arm and idler arm on a 1999 S10 Chevy Blazer 4x4?


    Pitman arm requires a pitman arm puller, and a tie rod seperator or "pickle fork". Remove the cotter pin on from the joint on the pitman arm and center link, then remove the nuts from both ends of pitman arm. Use the pitman arm puller to remove the pitman arm from the steering gear, then use the tie rod seperator to remove the end from the center link. Reinstall and retighten nuts, do not leave out the cotter pin.
    Idler arm will require tie rod seperator. Remove the cotter pin from the end at the center link, use the tie rod seperator to seperate the joint there. Unbolt the idler arm from the frame, and remove. On reinstalling remember to install a new cotter pin. It would be best to have the front end alignment checked after replacing these parts.

    Apr 08, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

    1 Answer

    How to change pitman arm on a 1999 chevy suburban


    you don't have to remove the steering box to do a pitman arm. Take off the one 1/4 in. nut, or whatever size it is, take the nut off the center link, put a pitman arm puller on the steering box side, and tighten the puller until you can't go any further, and hit the adjuster w/ a hammer hard, then tighten some more and repeat

    Feb 02, 2010 | 1997 Chevrolet Suburban

    1 Answer

    Need pitman arm replaced and idler arm replaced


    The idler isn't bad, Remove cotter pin going through the nut, take off nut, you need a seperator tool to pull apart the arm from the center link, once that is done, remove the two bolts holding it to the frame, remove arm, installation is just reverse.
    The pitman arm is a little more to it. Do the same, remove cotter pin, take off nut, and seperate it from the rod, now there is big nut holding it on to the bottom of the steering box, take that nut off (some are a real pain), you will need a pitman arm puller to get it off. Note the position of the arm, need to put new one in same place, pull it off slow, sometimes seals will come with it, put seals back in same way, if they come out. Put some grease on splined shaft, tap new arm on until you can get nut on, tighten up with nut. Hopefully you have any problems. Good luck.

    Mar 24, 2009 | 1997 GMC Jimmy

    1 Answer

    Itman arm removal - 1995 ford crown vic


    remove the nut then buy a pitman arm puller at your local autoparts store, this tool will pull the pitman arm from the steering box.

    Oct 05, 2008 | 1995 Ford Crown Victoria

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