Question about 2003 Jeep Liberty

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Clanking, rough idle, vibration in gas pedal

Okay, my 2003 Jeep Liberty slowly lost electrical power while driving down the road. First the radio, then other stuff, then the headlights. I pulled over and it died as soon as I put it in park. It would not restart. Battery was good. Alternator failed the first test and passed the ones after that. Thought maybe bad bearing in alternator; replaced alternator. Car starts and runs. However, car was having problems for the last six months, especially when cold. (I live in Alaska). Now that the alternator is replaced the car is making a loud knocking sound. It makes the sound when warm or cold. As soon as I turn the car on. It makes it more when I am going slower speeds. When I speed up I cannot really hear it. When idling it is about one click a second. When driving every time I hear the click I can feel the vibration; especially in my gas pedal. It is idling very rough. It is like every time it clicks when idling the engine revs up just a little. When I hit the gas it seems to get faster at first; sometimes when I first take off it clicks so fast it sounds like if you were to drop a metal rod on something and it were to bounce up and down forty times in 10-15 seconds. It does not seem to get worse when I turn

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited Alternator issues?

have the alternator regulator and diodes tested. sometimes when the regulators fail they allow ac voltage to go to the battery. ac voltage doesn't charge the battery properly (causes it to deep cycle and shortens its life) and causes all sorts of funny problems with the car. also make sure the battery is secured properly, vibration isn't good for them at all.

Posted on Aug 13, 2008

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SOURCE: Unusual noise

Not really a "solution" but this may move you a step closer to one...Check vacuum operated servo blend motors on the heater box. I would disconnect and plug the vacuum supply line to the dash controls (on the engine side of firewall) and drive it for a while. Obviously, if it's cold out you may not want to do this till summer because heat will not work, but it's worth a try, just to get a location on the problem isolated without taking the entire car apart!!

Posted on Dec 29, 2008

Molson02536
  • 3854 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 Jeep Liberty. Changed oil, running very rough and dies.

Buy some Marvel Mystery oil from Auto Zone and add it to you engine oil. Keep an eye on your engine oil level everyday with the Marvel in there and change the engine oil every 3000 miles. Hope the Marvel will clean out the lifters for you and the rest of the sludge in the engine. Do Not Use Engine Flush!!!! There know to eat the seals and kill engine sensors.
The EGR could also be stuck with carbon build up and may need to be cleaned or replaced. Try doing this, turn your radio off and disconnect the battery for a min, turn the ignition key to the run position and re connect the battery then start the liberty. That should reset the air idle control valve
Let it idle down and then go for a test drive after it warms up. Good luck and keep me posted, while your at Auto Zone have them scan your liberty for any DTC codes. Be glad to help.

Posted on May 31, 2009

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SOURCE: CV cplaced still clicking

Check the front drive line. If it has a double cardan u-joint at the rear and a cv joint at the front it is probably the front cv joint on the drive line. Eventually it will break. Manual states it requires replacing the entire front shaft as this CV can't be replaced separately. The other solution is to have a drive line repair shop build a new shaft with a skip yoke and u joint at the front and new yoke on the front axle housing.

Posted on Apr 07, 2010

  • 252 Answers

SOURCE: I have a knocking noise

I HAVE SAME JEEP SAME PROBLEM...I have found out after research that all these jeeps like yours and mine have a common problem with engine clogging and the valves sticking and the rocker arms coming off.....This is true I pulled my valve cover off and the rocker arm had come off because the valve was stuck ....Pressure between the rocker and the cam and the valve is the only thing that will keep the rockers from falling off......And when the valve starts to stick the rocker falls off.....This is sad but true.....Also it is badly clogged with black chuncks of burnt oil....I dont know what causes this other than the wrong weight oil....but I only used the wrong oil maybe 2 times...
There should be a recall on these because the rocker arms shouldnt come off.....I think the rockers are wrong from the factory....I am a level 2 chrysler tech.and also ASE certified.......It makes me angry that they built these so weak !! ....All you can do is remove the heads and have a complete valve job done and clean the oil pick-up tube in the oil pan as well....then a complete engine flush..
.....ONLY use 5w20 weight oil also........If you dont have the cash dont tear it down cause I almost guarantee you have the same problem as I.............Hope this helps.................Metalpoet

Posted on Mar 07, 2011

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