Question about 1996 Saturn SW
I need the directions to put it back together correctly
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
you can look up repair guides on autozones repair section, but when i replaced my valve cover on my 98 saturn sc2, I did a alternating star patern like on a tire, and I just tightened it down till I saw the seals from the spark plug wholes plump out just a lilte. I have no leaks and no problems. The torque speks in the book are in inch pounds not foot pounds. So I just did it on my own.
Posted on Jun 26, 2008
Removing it isn't too hard, replacing it is another story. Drain antifreeze. The top radiator hose will need to be taken loose. Air intake from front of car to filter.The fuel lines...You just need to pinch the plastic clips with a pair of needle nose pliers while you pull on the lines.The timing chain will need to come off,make sure the marks are at top dead center, bottom and top sprocket. You will need to take off the EGR valve, The vacuum lines on top of the throttle body. Vacuum line under Air intake. Throttle cable, manifold exhaust, 02 sensor, A/C compressor if you have one, just lay it aside...doesn't need to be discharged. Power steering pump need to take the bolts out of it by turning the sprocket so you can get a deep dwell socket in it...about 3 or 4 bolts there. The tension pulley needs to be taken off, of course after the belt is taken off. A few other things that are obvious by looking. Most importantly, have the head tested before putting on new gasket. The bolts should all be replace on the head since they are torque to yield. The torque procedure is 25lbs, all then 35lbs. all then turn the wrench on all of the bolts from 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock which equals 90 degrees. That will give you the torque to yield...
Posted on Oct 18, 2009
Normally I would advise exactly how to do a job, but this is one of those tasks that you NEED to buy a haynes manual so you have the correct tightening/torquing sequence, the correct method to set the timing, etc. This can be an involved process, and without the proper illustrations and information, would be homocide to your vehicle's engine to undertake. While you're in there, you'll want to change out the timing chain as well though, FYI.
Posted on Oct 22, 2009
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Since you didn't say which engine you have, I've pulled torque specs for 3 different engines. Also, since I can't include a diagram showing the relative locations of the numbered head-bolt locations, it would be a good idea for you to purchase a vehicle specific repair guide that will show this info.
Take particular note about the TTY (Torque to Yield) bolts used on 2 of the 3 engines shown. It is said that new head bolts MUST BE USED when head is replaced or re-installed to obtain the proper torque.
B2500 4 Cylinder
Torque sequence: --------- ' 10 6 2 4 8
' front ' ' ' 7 3 1 5 9 ' -----------Step 1: torque in sequence to 51
Ft/Lbs Step 2: torque again in sequence to 51 Ft/Lbs Step 3: final
tighten all bolts an additional 90 to 100 degrees recheck final
torque in sequence *** CAUTION ***engine uses Torque To Yield head
bolts (TTY) that permanently stretch during the initial installation.
New head bolts must be used when cylinder head is replaced or
re-installed to obtain proper torque.
B3000 3.0 6 Cylinder
Torque sequence ---------- ' 6 4 2 8 '
' ' ' 5 1 3 7 ' ---------- Step 1: torque to 59 Ft/Lbs Step 2: loosen
in sequence (1) full turn Step 3: torque to 41 Ft/Lbs Step 4: torque
to 73 Ft/Lbs
B4000 4.0 6 Cylinder
Torque sequence --------- ' 5 1 3 7 ' '
' ' 6 4 2 8 ' --------- Step 1: torque cylinder head bolts in
sequence to 26 Ft/Lbs Step 2: torque cylinder head bolts to 56 Ft/Lbs
Step 3: turn cylinder head bolts in sequence an additional 90-degrees
recheck final torque in sequence *** CAUTION ***engine uses Torque To
Yield head bolts (TTY) that permanently stretch during the initial
installation. New head bolts must be used when cylinder head is
replaced or re-installed to obtain proper torque.
Good luck with this job!
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