Question about 1993 Volkswagen Jetta

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Heating and oil pressure

I have 1993 Jetta 3 1.8 Manual. A little while ago my temperature guage in the car stopped working, so I replaced it with a new one> It immediately showed the temp at 110 degrees, but the heat from the engine did not substantiate this reading. In any event, i took it back and got another one. The same thing happened. Not only was the temp reaching 110 degrees, it was getting there pretty fast from a cold start. Even the fan would not bring the temperature down. So we started replacing everything - thermostat, fan switch, water pump, radiator and temp sensor> After all this, the car stills heats to 110 degress in a very short period of yime, and the fan has absolutely no effect on the temperature. it does not bring it down. now my oil light and the buzzer also come on, but stops after switching the car off and letting it stand. I rode a distamce of 200m when the buzzer and oil light came on. After standing for 45 minutes, the oil light ame on, but no buzzer. we are at our wits end now. please help!

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The short answer is electronics. the long one is i suspect a fault in earthing. i installed an aftermarket temp sensor and gauge and i forgot to earth the sensor side to the body. it automatically from cold started saying my coolant temprature was 125, the max it could read. i would suggest you check all the wiring very closely and carefully for breaks, damage, loose terminals. my bet is loose or damaged wiring to the sensors.

you may also have an ECU fault.

you can remove the thermostat to open the coolant flow to its maximum limits but caution needs to be taken as it will not allow the car to pre heat correctly to operating temp, it will always run colder than specified and if there is cooling system issues (blockages) it will mask the symptoms untill the problem causes serious issues.


seeing as you have just about replaced the cooling system entirely it can be pretty safe to say it is highly unlikely you are having mechanical problems. the issues you face are electrical. and if having the dash pulled apart again and having every wire double checked for damage is not your cup of tea your best bet is probably palm it off to someone who just wants a car that runs and possibly upgrade to a newer model.

Posted on Feb 14, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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tragedy lok
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SOURCE: 96 jetta 2.0l still overheating

so u pretty much replaced everything there is that could be the problem,fans turn on right??pump is working right??thermo is new right??ok so during the process of changing every thing you could have trapped air pockets in the cooling system ive seen this numerous times you can start there its the cheapest start,1st remove the radiator cap,2nd turn heater on high setting and temp to heat max, 3rd start ur car let the system cycle thermo has to open and close at least 2x's water is going to overflow to the ground its ok just dont lketr it empty youll see bubbles like air comming out let it run like 15min like this,turn the car off let it cool then place the cap back on make sure the seal is ok on radiator cao too!!hopefully thats all u need if not u may need a head gasket repaired they sell a green liquid at kragen oriely for blown head gaskets its like 25.00 it works pretty good for about 6000 miles to 10,000 miles MAKE SURE IF U USE IT FOLLOW ALL DIRECTIONS!! GOOD LUCK

Posted on Nov 24, 2009

miket756
  • 2702 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 VW Jetta 1.8T Temp Guage/False Overheating Issue

your car is cooking!!!! if your heater starts to blow cold air its got an air lock in the system and need to be blead out to get this air out of the water jaket in the engine sounds like your gauge is working fine to me, its screeming at you to stop! as its over heating the engine, look under your hood for the water hoses you should find a hose with a kind of nut or screw in it at the higest point on a water hose, this is the bleed point, fill the rad up with water and turn on the heater to hot only do this when the engine is COLD undo this screw or nut start the engine up and watch the water flow out this bleed point till there is no more air coming out with the water, keep the rad full of water and you dont need to put the rad cap back on till the air has been bled out but keep the rad full of water all the time after all the air is out refill the rad or top it up put the cap back on and run the motor it should not show as hot as it was and the heater should work just fine

Posted on Jan 15, 2010

  • 11800 Answers

SOURCE: 2.0 motor in 1998 cabrio

The coolant doesn't flow thru the radiator/heater correctly because either:
1 - there is lime and dirt deposits in the coolant circuit : you will need to run a flushing solution like
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ZEREX-Radiator-Super-Flush-4NPP3
take the thermostat out, drain the coolant, add the solution and fill the rest with demineralized water, run the engine for an hour with the internal heater at max, drain it all then reinstall the thermostat and refill with coolant. If it's the same then
2 - one of the rubber hoses has aged and it has peeled inside - the rubber flap that apeared is blocking the flow when the pressure given by the water pump is too little to push it aside. Replace all the water hoses.

Posted on May 18, 2011

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