Question about Dodge Stratus
Checked a/c(works)blower(works) All systems work on my vents ( except no heat from heater
Check that the control module is actually turning on the heater control to allow coolant to flow through the heater core. Check that you do not have an air lock into the heater.
Posted on Feb 14, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First thing to check is the coolant level. The heater is the lowest priority of the cooling system so if there isn't enough coolant, none will flow through the heater core. If the radiator is full, the next thing to check is coolant flow through the heater core. The easiest way is simply by "feel" and here's how: Open the hood and identify the heater hoses by locating the two smaller coolant hoses that attach to ports at the fire wall. Once you identify them, start the engine and allow it to warm up to normal operating temperature. (195 to 200 degrees F or just under 100 degrees C) Now turn off the engine and feel the two hoses one at a time as close to the fire wall as possible. If one is warm or hot and the other is cool or cold then there is an obstruction in the heater core. If there is an obstruction in the heater core, you can usually back-flush it and clear it out. To back flush it you have to identify coolant flow direction, if you have identified a cold hose with the previous test, then that's the coolant outlet of the heater core, to back-flush, you would force water into the outlet, and watch for the obstruction to be blown-out of the inlet. Usually garden hose pressure is sufficient, but don't apply more force than the pressure maximum specified on the radiator cap! (Usually 15-17 PSI) You can burst a heater core with too much pressure, then you'll enjoy all the fun of removing the entire dash panel from your vehicle so that you can access the heater core case. If it is totally clogged up there may be no hope of clearing the obstruction, and replacement will become necessary.(which makes dash panel removal necessary too!) If the heater core is not obstructed and both hoses are the same temperature, the climate control system is not directing airflow through the heater core. The air diverter door may be cable or servo-electrically operated. Again access to the heater case may become necessary to service the air diverter doors. ( I wouldn't recommed anyone other than a skilled professional for dash panel removal and replacement because there are a lot of nuts, bolts, screws wiring connectors, vaccum hoses and possibly cables to deal with, not to mention engine coolant and air conditioner refrigerant in cars with A/C! ) Good Luck!
Posted on Nov 02, 2008
SOURCE: Heater Blower won't work
There was a bulletin reguarding water contaminating the blower motor, which overheats the blower resistor and renders it inoperative. The fix was to replace the blower and the resistor and seal the culprit hood cowl screw at the base of the windshield, which is the second screw from the passenger side. They say water drips off of it down into the fresh air opening.
Here's what I'd do: Assuming your switch and blower motor is good, replace the blower resistor. Remove the blower motor and see if it spins without any excessive drag. If it's okay, reuse it. If it's dragging, it will overheat your new resistor in a short period of time and you'll be back at square one. The blower resistor is mounted to the front of the case with 2 screws to the left of the blower motor. Remove the glove box and you'll see it.
The Hood cowl screw is straight down into the cowl, the second one from the right side, about 10-12 inches from the right fender. Pull it out, put some sealer on it, and reinstall it.
Posted on Oct 02, 2009
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