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Brakes seem to work after I put in new brake pads but no brake fluid comes out of nipples from back wheels when I tried to bleed them,can there be a blockage inside calliper ,if so how do I clear

When brake peddle depressed wheels stop turning, by hand I mean

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The nipples (bleeder screws) may be plugged. Remove the screws and inspect the passages for blockage.

Posted on Feb 14, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: bleeding brakes

remove the bleed nipple and make sure its clean and not blocked.check master cylinder is full with clean fluid of the correct type ,min req j1704 now with some help as this is a mechanics old trick get someone in the drivers seat and get them to push the pedal down when they shout down put finger over nipple and say UP after they say up you say down and remove finger till they say down then cover nipple again and say up ,i know it sounds daft but trust me after about ten pumps you shoud start to get some pressure

Posted on Nov 06, 2008

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SOURCE: We replaced pads & callipers, bleed lines/ brake, buster, pump, cilynder but peddle goes to floor. brakes work but braking later .help!!!!!!!!!!!!

Check your Brake Servo. There might be a problem or a leak with the Servo.

Posted on Oct 19, 2012

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How to bleed brakes

Bleeding brakes is pretty much the same across all vehicles. However, are you sure that there's air in the system and not a faulty brake master cylinder? The brake master cylinder has rubberised 'O' seals inside which, if worn, can cause a spongy pedal that has to be pumped before the brakes feel hard.

To bleed the brakes you need a length of plastic tube to fit onto the brake bleed nipple on the brake calliper. You can buy a brake bleeding kit which incorporates a non-return valve. The valve allows brake fluid to be pumped through it but prevents air from being drawn back up the tube into the brake system.

You can use ordinary plastic tube, but one end should be placed in a container of brake fluid to prevent air being drawn back in.

1. Locate the bleed nipple. Usually you start at the wheel nearest to the brake master cylinder (and then bleed each wheel in turn working your way to the furthest wheel from the car -if necessary).

2. Before you begin:Put a ring spanner onto the bleed nipple. Put a finger over the end of the bleed nipple to prevent air from entering via the nipple and 'rock' the spanner to make sure that the nipple will actually loosen. It is quite common for brake bleed nipples to seize then shear when turned with a spanner(wrench..). Don't use an open-ended spanner (wrench) otherwise the chances are you will 'round off' the bleed nipple.

3. Put the ring spanner on the bleed nipple and fit the bleed tube.

Get somebody to turn on the engine and slowly - slowly - depress the brake pedal. Undo the nipple slightly and brake fluid (maybe with air bubbles in it) should be visible in the tube.

get your helper to pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and keep the pedal depressed. Tighten the brake nipple.

4. Then repeat for each calliper if necessary.

5. Many cars have a split circuit brake system. That is, the front offside wheel is on the same system as the rear nearside wheel. The front nearside wheel is on the same line as the rear offside.

Here, you would bleed the front brake first and then the diagonally opposite rear wheel.


Plastic tube with non return valve for bleeding brake


Generic image - bleed nipple on calliper.

A bleed nipple. The open end is where the tube fits. Usually, you only need undo a bleed nipple approximately one turn. Use a ring spanner, not an open ended spanner.


Below: Bleed nipple can be seen on bottom right of calliper (generic image)


Below: Ring spanner on bleed nipple with tube attached.


Jan 21, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Hi i have a honda XR250 03-04 *** import and my brakes are spongy? I have changed the disks and pads and i have bleed the brakes but are still spongey like not sharp poor breaking thanks

The new pads may require a few kilometers of riding before they bed into the new disks.
Failing this, try reverse bleeding of your brakes. Use a large syringe and tube. Fill the syringe with brake fluid, being careful to remove all air from the syringe and tube. Connect to bleed nipple, and with the brake lever fluid reservoir cap removed, compress the brake fluid back up to the reservoir. Your syringe will need to be large enough to contain more fluid than caliper and line combined for this procedure.

Nov 02, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Front and rear drum brakes, the pads are ok, but the brake pedal started going to the floor. When I tried to bleed them, the rear bleeder screws broke. So I replaced both wheel cylinders. The rubber... you have stated that you have bled the brakes properly.....was there fluid coming out each bleed nipple as a flowing stream...????

And did you shut off the bleed nipple half way down stroke....?????

If this is all ok, then I would be looking at a failed master cylinder.......and what is occurring is the fluid is leaking from the primary to the secondary within the master cylinder !!!!!

Mar 31, 2011 | Ford Mustang Cars & Trucks

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I have a 1995 pontiac grand am just put all new breaks on but cant get any break pressure how do i fix it?

How worn out are those discs(rotors)? Sometimes the discs wear unevenly due to the pad being slightly smaller than the disc. It causes a ridge on the inner and outer area of the disc. Installing a new pad causes it to sit across these ridges and when you press down on the pedal you seem to have no pressure when in fact the pad is bending into the area below it. (See picbelow) Sometimes discs can be skimmed as long as they're still within manufacturers spec when done. I'd recommend replacement.
If you did not open the brake lines with assembly it should not require bleeding.
If you want to bleed the system here's how:
You'll need an assistant for this. First off, Make sure you can open all the bleed screws/nipples(looks like a little metal pipe half inch long, but its base is in the form of a nut). Use a ring spanner or socket to loosen the nipple the first time. Not an open ended spanner since bleed nipples tend to get quite stuck. Once loosened, fasten them again and starting at the wheel furthest from the driver. Have your assitant pump the brake pedal a couple times, and then hold it down. Open the bleed nipple on the caliper. Some brake fluid should come out of the nipple. Close the nipple and then release the pedal. While the bleed nipple is open the pedal must remain pressed down. Releasing the pedal will **** air into the system and you'll have to start over. Pump the pedal again a couple times and repeat the whole procedure until the fluid coming out is clear and without air bubbles. Then move to the next wheel and repeat the process. All the time be sure that there is enough brake fluid in the reservoir in the engine compartment.
ps a small length of pipe connected to the bleed nipple with the other end submerged in a small amount of brake fluid in a clear bottle will allow you to see when there is no longer air coming out with the brakefluid.

Jul 17, 2010 | 1995 Pontiac Grand Am

3 Answers

Bleeding the brakes after new pads are installed...

If you have help, you can simply place a clear tube over the nipple on each wheel and while your assistant pumps the brakes, allow the old fluid to be pushed out by the new. Start with the rear passenger, then rear driver side then the front. If you do not have help, kits can be purchased that allow you to do this as a one man job.

Jul 14, 2010 | 2003 Chevrolet S-10

1 Answer

I have no barkes i put all new lines on and no i bleed them starting whit right rear and still no

When you stand on the brakes does the pedal feel soft or hard? If soft the chances are you still have air in the system. Tighten (not too much just enough to prevent the escape of brake fluid) all the bleed nipples. Now make sure there is fluid to the maximum in the master brake reservoir. Stand on the brakes to extend all the slave pistons as far as they can go with the current situation. Starting with the the right back (as you correctly did originally) put your finger tip over the end of the nipple and undo it with an open ended spanner by only a quarter of a turn. Have a friend step on the brake pedal. When he has got to the bottom of travel push your finger hard on the nipple tip and tighten the nipple gently with e the spanner. Your friend can now release the brake pedal slowly. Again ask your friend to press on the pedal and then you undo the nipple a quarter of a turn to bleed of the fluid (and bubbles). When your friend reports that the pedal is on the floor, again tighten the bled nipple. Again your friend can only now release the brake pedal slowly. There will come a point when your friend will notice some resistance to the pedal before you slacken the bleed nipple to bleed the fluid. Keep bleeding this brake until a quarter of a pint of fluid has been pushed through and now tighten the bleed nipple firmly. Add fresh brake fluid to the brake reservoir under the hood. Now repeat this process with the back left wheel, then front right and then front left. The important thing is 1) ensure that the brake pedal is never lifted until the bleed nipple is tight otherwise air is sucked in through the nipple; having your finger tip on the end can help avoid this and 2) to ensure that the reservoir is always full of brake fluid so that only fluid can enter the system and not air 3) that you bleed plenty of fluid through the system, when you replace brake lines it is surprising just how many little pockets of air can hide in it. Good luck

May 12, 2010 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

2 Answers

How do you change brakes on a 2003 gmc envoy ? Is there anything special like do the pistons need to rotate to retract? Do you need any special tools? Thanks!

don't need any special tools, standard sockets sets, "C" clams is a must unless your a He-Man and wrench set, plyer or needle nose will do. I assumed being 2003 your rotor never have been turn and i recommend every time you change your bakes is good idea to have your rotor turn. reason is it will make your pad last lot longer, removed any vibration and better even wear on the pad and eliminate any squealing although is not necessary to do so. make sure you get extra break fluid to bleed the brakes. get your self 5 feet long smallest vacum rubber hoses and a glass jar to bleed your brake fluid in. the rubber vacum hose you going to use to fit on to the bleeding nipple and run the other end of line to your the glass jar to save the brake fluid when you bleed the brakes. when removing caliper, check inspect make sure the rubber seals around your piston look good and not crack or deteriorated. before applying new pad make sure you open the bleed valve to reduce the pressure by turning the bleed nipple counter clockwise and leave it open attach that rubber hoses to the nipple because you going to press on the piston back into it housing with the "C" clamp in order for new pad to fit. becareful not to damage the rubber seals around the piston. its going to take lots of effort to push that piston back in so be a bare with it if needs to. once the pad is back in make sure you keep the reservoir full with brake fluid and then bleed the brake. two people is a good idea to do brake. one will do the pumping the brake and holding it down and other will bleed the nipple. I bleed it 2-3 time will do the job. good luck!

Jul 16, 2009 | 2004 GMC Envoy

1 Answer

Fit brake discs and pads to ford falcon longreach ute

after removing the wheel, remove the 2 bolts on the brake caliper. place a clamp on the flexy brake line to stop fluid loss. remove the caliper then remove the pads. undo the bleed nipple and push the piston back into the caliper. do up the nipple. undo the front wheel bearings and remove the disk. pack the wheel bearings and fit the front hubs. fit the brake pads then the caliper. remove the clamp check the fluid levels and pump the brakes brakes should be done by a professional because if the fail you can only die once
happy motoring

Apr 04, 2009 | 1983 Ford Fairmont

2 Answers

Bleeding brakes

check to see if this car has a brake equilisation valve in the line somewhere, as they normaly stick when there has been a fluid loss at the rear of the vehicle. this brake presure protection valve shuts off the fluid coming to the rear brake after there is no resistance in the rear line to keep from loosing all brakes entirely.

Nov 06, 2008 | 1998 Audi A4

1 Answer

I want to replace the rear disk pads on my a-6 Quattro 3.0; can I safely use one of those compressor kits from a parts place to compress the pistons, any tricks to share ?? and anything to worry about...

I have taken the brake caliper of the rear passenger side and renewed the seals in it i have also renewed the brake pads in that wheel i have tried to bleed it before renewing the pads in the outherside but when i open the bleed nipple and push the peddle down there is no braked fluid coming out i also renewed the nipple.When you take the brake pipe off the caliper ther is still no fluid coming out also there is no pressure on the pedal 1997 audi a4 1800

Jul 26, 2008 | 1998 Audi A4

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